Parker Yahoo Group Archived Messages

ID From Subject Date
640 rangertimbo Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please 10/5/2005 22:04:00

I just did the replacement of the starboard Lenco on my 2120 this evening.
Here's what I
learned from the experience.

First, even though the Lencos seem to burn out on us more often than Bennetts,
they are
so easy to replace it's a breeze. The next one I do will only take me about 15
minutes. I
went slow this time in order to keep from making a mistake.

The Lenco customer service will tell you to test whether the tab actuator will
work if you
bypass the control module. I made the mistake of cutting the wires that were
under the
dash to find out. This can be better accomplished by pulling the slack out of
the wire in
the stern compartment. Lenco only provides about five feet of wire attached to
actuator, so you will find a splice in the stern somewhere. Take this apart and
do your test

Remove the plastic pins on each end of the actuator and unscrew the bracket on
the boat.
I used a No.3 Phillips head driver inserted through the pin holes to give me
some leverage
in order to break the seal and remove the bracket. Don't forget to tie a stout
line to the
wire connection that you severed so you can pull the new wire back into the
boat, as you
cannot reach the inside of the transom where the wire passes through. Tie the
string to
the interior wires and twist them together enough so they won't separate. Tape
electrical tape just in case, but be careful not to create any extra thickness
or it won't fit
through the hole.

You will find it difficult to pull the wire through the hole because of the
sealant that was
used. This also causes the wire insulation to have a tendency to move
bunching up and causing problems. Working the wire back and forth in small
steps freed
up the wire from the sealant enough so that I could pull it out. Clean all old
sealant off the
transom with a razor blade and get the old stuff off of the mating surface on
the bracket.

Put the bracket on the new wire in the correct orientation and reattach the pull
string. Pull
most of the new wire back through but leave a few inches so you can coat them
sealant. Make the wire connections on the interior and test. I use crimp
connectors and
coat with liquid electrical tape, then tape them. Squirt sealant into the hole
around the
wire, into the screw holes and all over the back side of the bracket. Better to
have too
much than to let water penetrate! Finish pulling the wire and reattach the
screws. Clean
up the sealant squeeze out and push the wires in side the boat back down out of

Perhaps I have neglected some important detail. But my new actuator works and
it's not
going to leak. I wish I could get to the back side of the transom to coat it
with sealant but
that ain't gonna happen! By the way, I used 4200 sealant. 5200 would be a
royal *&%#$@
to get off the next time. Silicone is not reliable enough below the waterline
in my book.

I know the wires are run differently in a 21SE but hopefully there is enough
info here to