Parker Yahoo Group Archived Messages

ID From Subject Date
645 rraccuia Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please 10/16/2005 9:38:00

Thanks, that was very helpful info....How did you id the the power cable coming
out of the trough in the stern? Also, why does the bracket need to be removed?
Can the new cable be slipped into the bracket hole from the outside?

<a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=X_wN2MHUC8EGXdmTmxPlIiPZx-gHCu11x3QKwLK35GNPt7gSA7jOTBv7VFS7nECBplXx_K7laVlfk51WIbASJUuw3dY"></a>, "rangertimbo" <kstreagle@e...> wrote:
> I just did the replacement of the starboard Lenco on my 2120 this evening.
Here's what I
> learned from the experience.
> First, even though the Lencos seem to burn out on us more often than Bennetts,
they are
> so easy to replace it's a breeze. The next one I do will only take me about 15
minutes. I
> went slow this time in order to keep from making a mistake.
> The Lenco customer service will tell you to test whether the tab actuator will
work if you
> bypass the control module. I made the mistake of cutting the wires that were
under the
> dash to find out. This can be better accomplished by pulling the slack out of
the wire in
> the stern compartment. Lenco only provides about five feet of wire attached to
> actuator, so you will find a splice in the stern somewhere. Take this apart
and do your test
> there.
> Remove the plastic pins on each end of the actuator and unscrew the bracket on
the boat.
> I used a No.3 Phillips head driver inserted through the pin holes to give me
some leverage
> in order to break the seal and remove the bracket. Don't forget to tie a stout
line to the
> wire connection that you severed so you can pull the new wire back into the
boat, as you
> cannot reach the inside of the transom where the wire passes through. Tie the
string to
> the interior wires and twist them together enough so they won't separate. Tape
> electrical tape just in case, but be careful not to create any extra thickness
or it won't fit
> through the hole.
> You will find it difficult to pull the wire through the hole because of the
sealant that was
> used. This also causes the wire insulation to have a tendency to move
> bunching up and causing problems. Working the wire back and forth in small
steps freed
> up the wire from the sealant enough so that I could pull it out. Clean all old
sealant off the
> transom with a razor blade and get the old stuff off of the mating surface on
the bracket.
> Put the bracket on the new wire in the correct orientation and reattach the
pull string. Pull
> most of the new wire back through but leave a few inches so you can coat them
> sealant. Make the wire connections on the interior and test. I use crimp
connectors and
> coat with liquid electrical tape, then tape them. Squirt sealant into the hole
around the
> wire, into the screw holes and all over the back side of the bracket. Better
to have too
> much than to let water penetrate! Finish pulling the wire and reattach the
screws. Clean
> up the sealant squeeze out and push the wires in side the boat back down out
of sight.
> Perhaps I have neglected some important detail. But my new actuator works and
it's not
> going to leak. I wish I could get to the back side of the transom to coat it
with sealant but
> that ain't gonna happen! By the way, I used 4200 sealant. 5200 would be a
royal *&%#$@
> to get off the next time. Silicone is not reliable enough below the waterline
in my book.
> I know the wires are run differently in a 21SE but hopefully there is enough
info here to
> help.