Parker Yahoo Group Archived Messages

ID From Subject Date
647 peter seminara RE: Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please 10/16/2005 16:53:00

Do you guys use zincs on your trim tabs and do you find that you have to
replace them often?



-----Original Message-----
From: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=Zjzu0mYwppZfGMeZiBFb-WWs6Yy2_JKk7D7pQ541pjtP6KNvmvKq-lvBeEHzdZ9iy9mWsKcGkEtGOHax5vr-y9w"></a> [mailto:<a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=Zjzu0mYwppZfGMeZiBFb-WWs6Yy2_JKk7D7pQ541pjtP6KNvmvKq-lvBeEHzdZ9iy9mWsKcGkEtGOHax5vr-y9w"></a>] On
Behalf Of rraccuia
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 8:39 AM
To: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=Zjzu0mYwppZfGMeZiBFb-WWs6Yy2_JKk7D7pQ541pjtP6KNvmvKq-lvBeEHzdZ9iy9mWsKcGkEtGOHax5vr-y9w"></a>
Subject: [parkerboats] Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please

Thanks, that was very helpful info....How did you id the the power cable
coming out of the trough in the stern? Also, why does the bracket need to be
removed? Can the new cable be slipped into the bracket hole from the

<a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=Zjzu0mYwppZfGMeZiBFb-WWs6Yy2_JKk7D7pQ541pjtP6KNvmvKq-lvBeEHzdZ9iy9mWsKcGkEtGOHax5vr-y9w"></a>, "rangertimbo" <kstreagle@e...> wrote:
> I just did the replacement of the starboard Lenco on my 2120 this evening.
Here's what I
> learned from the experience.
> First, even though the Lencos seem to burn out on us more often than
Bennetts, they are
> so easy to replace it's a breeze. The next one I do will only take me
about 15 minutes. I
> went slow this time in order to keep from making a mistake.
> The Lenco customer service will tell you to test whether the tab actuator
will work if you
> bypass the control module. I made the mistake of cutting the wires that
were under the
> dash to find out. This can be better accomplished by pulling the slack out
of the wire in
> the stern compartment. Lenco only provides about five feet of wire
attached to the
> actuator, so you will find a splice in the stern somewhere. Take this
apart and do your test
> there.
> Remove the plastic pins on each end of the actuator and unscrew the
bracket on the boat.
> I used a No.3 Phillips head driver inserted through the pin holes to give
me some leverage
> in order to break the seal and remove the bracket. Don't forget to tie a
stout line to the
> wire connection that you severed so you can pull the new wire back into
the boat, as you
> cannot reach the inside of the transom where the wire passes through. Tie
the string to
> the interior wires and twist them together enough so they won't separate.
Tape with
> electrical tape just in case, but be careful not to create any extra
thickness or it won't fit
> through the hole.
> You will find it difficult to pull the wire through the hole because of
the sealant that was
> used. This also causes the wire insulation to have a tendency to move
> bunching up and causing problems. Working the wire back and forth in small
steps freed
> up the wire from the sealant enough so that I could pull it out. Clean all
old sealant off the
> transom with a razor blade and get the old stuff off of the mating surface
on the bracket.
> Put the bracket on the new wire in the correct orientation and reattach
the pull string. Pull
> most of the new wire back through but leave a few inches so you can coat
them with
> sealant. Make the wire connections on the interior and test. I use crimp
connectors and
> coat with liquid electrical tape, then tape them. Squirt sealant into the
hole around the
> wire, into the screw holes and all over the back side of the bracket.
Better to have too
> much than to let water penetrate! Finish pulling the wire and reattach the
screws. Clean
> up the sealant squeeze out and push the wires in side the boat back down
out of sight.
> Perhaps I have neglected some important detail. But my new actuator works
and it's not
> going to leak. I wish I could get to the back side of the transom to coat
it with sealant but
> that ain't gonna happen! By the way, I used 4200 sealant. 5200 would be a
royal *&%#$@
> to get off the next time. Silicone is not reliable enough below the
waterline in my book.
> I know the wires are run differently in a 21SE but hopefully there is
enough info here to
> help.



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