Parker Yahoo Group Archived Messages

ID	From	Subject	Date
648	rraccuia	Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please	10/16/2005 18:20:00
I do...this is my third year. The first two years they really eroded, probably 60-70%, this year maybe 25%...I use the clam shells and replace them each spring. One odd thing...the zincs on my outboard show very little wear after three years. --- In <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=RbVe7t3wogl7-JyD-Yuf2co0p3jCr3rIFmaV4DUqlFSNwrFdbQ5_KS-_59Dj4E23Jo2qsxBvhEMpP_Vm2WB9sbnp">[email protected]</a>, "peter seminara" <pseminara@r...> wrote: > > Do you guys use zincs on your trim tabs and do you find that you have to > replace them often? > > > > Thanks, > > Chherios > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=RbVe7t3wogl7-JyD-Yuf2co0p3jCr3rIFmaV4DUqlFSNwrFdbQ5_KS-_59Dj4E23Jo2qsxBvhEMpP_Vm2WB9sbnp">[email protected]</a> [mailto:<a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=RbVe7t3wogl7-JyD-Yuf2co0p3jCr3rIFmaV4DUqlFSNwrFdbQ5_KS-_59Dj4E23Jo2qsxBvhEMpP_Vm2WB9sbnp">[email protected]</a>] On > Behalf Of rraccuia > Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 8:39 AM > To: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=RbVe7t3wogl7-JyD-Yuf2co0p3jCr3rIFmaV4DUqlFSNwrFdbQ5_KS-_59Dj4E23Jo2qsxBvhEMpP_Vm2WB9sbnp">[email protected]</a> > Subject: [parkerboats] Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please > > > > > Thanks, that was very helpful info....How did you id the the power cable > coming out of the trough in the stern? Also, why does the bracket need to be > removed? Can the new cable be slipped into the bracket hole from the > outside? > > <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=RbVe7t3wogl7-JyD-Yuf2co0p3jCr3rIFmaV4DUqlFSNwrFdbQ5_KS-_59Dj4E23Jo2qsxBvhEMpP_Vm2WB9sbnp">[email protected]</a>, "rangertimbo" kstreagle@e... wrote: > > > > I just did the replacement of the starboard Lenco on my 2120 this evening. > Here's what I > > learned from the experience. > > > > First, even though the Lencos seem to burn out on us more often than > Bennetts, they are > > so easy to replace it's a breeze. The next one I do will only take me > about 15 minutes. I > > went slow this time in order to keep from making a mistake. > > > > The Lenco customer service will tell you to test whether the tab actuator > will work if you > > bypass the control module. I made the mistake of cutting the wires that > were under the > > dash to find out. This can be better accomplished by pulling the slack out > of the wire in > > the stern compartment. Lenco only provides about five feet of wire > attached to the > > actuator, so you will find a splice in the stern somewhere. Take this > apart and do your test > > there. > > > > Remove the plastic pins on each end of the actuator and unscrew the > bracket on the boat. > > I used a No.3 Phillips head driver inserted through the pin holes to give > me some leverage > > in order to break the seal and remove the bracket. Don't forget to tie a > stout line to the > > wire connection that you severed so you can pull the new wire back into > the boat, as you > > cannot reach the inside of the transom where the wire passes through. Tie > the string to > > the interior wires and twist them together enough so they won't separate. > Tape with > > electrical tape just in case, but be careful not to create any extra > thickness or it won't fit > > through the hole. > > > > You will find it difficult to pull the wire through the hole because of > the sealant that was > > used. This also causes the wire insulation to have a tendency to move > independently, > > bunching up and causing problems. Working the wire back and forth in small > steps freed > > up the wire from the sealant enough so that I could pull it out. Clean all > old sealant off the > > transom with a razor blade and get the old stuff off of the mating surface > on the bracket. > > > > Put the bracket on the new wire in the correct orientation and reattach > the pull string. Pull > > most of the new wire back through but leave a few inches so you can coat > them with > > sealant. Make the wire connections on the interior and test. I use crimp > connectors and > > coat with liquid electrical tape, then tape them. Squirt sealant into the > hole around the > > wire, into the screw holes and all over the back side of the bracket. > Better to have too > > much than to let water penetrate! Finish pulling the wire and reattach the > screws. Clean > > up the sealant squeeze out and push the wires in side the boat back down > out of sight. > > > > Perhaps I have neglected some important detail. But my new actuator works > and it's not > > going to leak. I wish I could get to the back side of the transom to coat > it with sealant but > > that ain't gonna happen! By the way, I used 4200 sealant. 5200 would be a > royal &%#$@ > > to get off the next time. Silicone is not reliable enough below the > waterline in my book. > > > > I know the wires are run differently in a 21SE but hopefully there is > enough info here to > > help. > > > > > > > > > > > _____ > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > > > Visit your group "parkerboats > <<a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/parkerboats">http://groups.yahoo.com/group/parkerboats</a>> " on the web. > > > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=TiBXMkLok61JHp6O_X3fhC2h7TUbJUy8Q6dRhcGnycwQ4IUZIjNDl19s-XaoeoJkbtTCjI43nZ9yg8WiElFE39RW1ZZPwlsLCASYPbMXkCz07g">[email protected]</a> > <mailto:<a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=TiBXMkLok61JHp6O_X3fhC2h7TUbJUy8Q6dRhcGnycwQ4IUZIjNDl19s-XaoeoJkbtTCjI43nZ9yg8WiElFE39RW1ZZPwlsLCASYPbMXkCz07g">[email protected]</a>?subject=Unsubscribe> > > > * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! > <<a href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/</a>> Terms of Service. > > > > _____ > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]