1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

Brent":2h4fjg4m said:

Brent":2h4fjg4m said:

mheltunen":2h4fjg4m said:

New stainless thru hull fittings will be delivered this week. I was looking at the fuel vent this morning (current one is plastic) and considering going to stainless as well. For some reason plastic thru-hulls seem like a liability to me. Any recommendations? I was inspecting my floor “fish box” and noticed the only penetration is the drain hole in the bottom which is connected to a thru hull fitting (a pickup style) directly below. I sort of like the simplicity of this setup but have never seen or used one in past. I assume by removing the plug while the boat is in the water the tank will fill. And when on plane I assume it will drain?


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Many replace them but I have not. They are from Marlon and not cracked or bad. M2cw


B2

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Marelon is correct name

B2

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I have same fishbox in the deck. I don't use it yet and keep it clean and unscrew the plug to drain it and replace

B2

Harbor freight has good enough sprayers to do simple jobs if looking for a hvlp sprayer...

For now I’m going to stick with brushing but I’ll keep that option in mind when I get sick of sanding


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I started stripping misc things off today in preparation for the upcoming repairs when I noticed a separation on the left side of the dash . I stripped the caulking that was covering the “repair” and cleaned it up. I plan on glassing and tabbing the crack in. Once I was at it I decided to pull the passenger side window to make the blending easier .


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mheltunen":1wpbu7xt said:

I started stripping misc things off today in preparation for the upcoming repairs when I noticed a separation on the left side of the dash . I stripped the caulking that was covering the “repair” and cleaned it up. I plan on glassing and tabbing the crack in. Once I was at it I decided to pull the passenger side window to make the blending easier .


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Be careful removing windows. Most likely sealed well and you might damage or remove fiberglass. I would contact Wynne for tips. I think they used black sealant and sets up solid on time. Might need to use some wedges and go slow

B2

This is the crack on the port side. If the picture is not clear it’s where the dash connects to the port side of the pilothouse. Can this be filled with resin and cab a sol or should I fill it and use some glass to tie the repair in?


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mheltunen":2luwgah1 said:

This is the crack on the port side. If the picture is not clear it’s where the dash connects to the port side of the pilothouse. Can this be filled with resin and cab a sol or should I fill it and use some glass to tie the repair in?


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M2cw I would add some fiberglass cloth

B2

A few years ago I bought the same boat except with an old VP I/O. Boat was in great condition other than cosmetic stuff. The engine was not. I repowered with a brand new VP engine and drive going from 190 hp to 320 hp. After cleaning it up, redoing some wiring, and the repower, it’s pretty much a brand new boat. I have about 30k into it and hopefully it’ll last me 15+ years. People can’t believe that the boat is a 1994.

Just a tip if you’re not too particular. I didn’t feel like redoing all the gel coat on the cockpit decks. There was some spider webbing. I bought rustoleum top side paint, oyster white, and it’s almost a dead match. I did the decks and a few touch ups here and there and most people would never be able to tell. It’s a quick and easy fix until I’m ready to redo the gel coat. It also cost around $20. But as you can tell from the stickers on my boat, I’m not too particular about keeping everything original and perfect.

Also, My tank is right around 100 gallons. I asked for the builders diagrams as well and Parker said they didn’t have them so I ran the tank as low as I could go then filled it back up. Ours are built differently so your tank might be different. Good luck with project.


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Very clean vessel, she looks great. I’m considering doing some paint instead of gel in a few areas. How well does the paint hold up? And how often is a recoat necessary? My vessel will live out her days in freshwater only ,on a trailer and with inside storage.


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You can't just Putty that Crack. It needs multi layers of 1708 45/45 The strand orientation is what will add extra strength as both go across the crack with the 45/45

0/90 only half the strands cross the crack. Obviously The boat is under stress there and may have had some extra pounding in the past.

It's a fairly easy fix.....The hard part is getting the fiberglass dust out of everything else after you do your grinding.

I purchased a spray can/device that I ended up not using. I think from West Marine.

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It's called a PreVal sprayer.

https://preval.com/diy-pro-products/preval-sprayer/

mheltunen":1j59p542 said:

Very clean vessel, she looks great. I’m considering doing some paint instead of gel in a few areas. How well does the paint hold up? And how often is a recoat necessary? My vessel will live out her days in freshwater only ,on a trailer and with inside storage.


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The paint holds great. I put it on a couple years ago and haven’t seen any paint coming off or even chipped. The primer is important though. They also make non-skid to mix in too. And it’s pretty easy to apply with a roller and brush. It’s not the best way of doing it but I’m not super anal about it either. I wouldn’t paint the hull or the cabin with it though. That I would gel coat. I just did the decks and the roof (all the horizontal surfaces) because they were beat up.


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Evolver1994":f2h17h4v said:

mheltunen":f2h17h4v said:

Very clean vessel, she looks great. I’m considering doing some paint instead of gel in a few areas. How well does the paint hold up? And how often is a recoat necessary? My vessel will live out her days in freshwater only ,on a trailer and with inside storage.


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The paint holds great. I put it on a couple years ago and haven’t seen any paint coming off or even chipped. The primer is important though. They also make non-skid to mix in too. And it’s pretty easy to apply with a roller and brush. It’s not the best way of doing it but I’m not super anal about it either. I wouldn’t paint the hull or the cabin with it though. That I would gel coat. I just did the decks and the roof (all the horizontal surfaces) because they were beat up.


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I’m kinda leaning towards tearing up the top skin on the roof and re doing the core material so finishing with paint is more appealing to me than gel coat. This is prolly due to my lack of experience with gel coat. The inside of the pilothouse and the top surface of the transom I want to re paint as well.


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I would be rolling and brushing as well


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warthog5":mauzttcp said:

You can't just Putty that Crack. It needs multi layers of 1708 45/45 The strand orientation is what will add extra strength as both go across the crack with the 45/45

0/90 only half the strands cross the crack. Obviously The boat is under stress there and may have had some extra pounding in the past.

It's a fairly easy fix.....The hard part is getting the fiberglass dust out of everything else after you do your grinding.

I purchased a spray can/device that I ended up not using. I think from West Marine.

Click to expand...

It's called a PreVal sprayer.

https://preval.com/diy-pro-products/preval-sprayer/

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Thank you. I ordered the glass.


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Gelcoat is really easy. It's worth a try if not that anal or you can always grind it off.

kidfreediver":25w1n1ty said:

Gelcoat is really easy. It's worth a try if not that anal or you can always grind it off.

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I am kind of anal about details. Initially I purchased this boat with the intention of doing some simple upgrades to get her sea worthy but as time goes by I’m having a difficult time finding the “good enough” line. I have a difficult time overlooking blemishes and small defects. I’m trying to rein myself in from turning this into a full restoration.


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Many of us started out that way, but the 'good enough' line kept moving.

Megabyte":1jayiryd said:

Many of us started out that way, but the 'good enough' line kept moving.

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Haha , I’m beginning to see that trend


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One of the appealing aspects of this hull is to the untrained eye you can’t tell the difference between a 1994 or a 2018 hull.


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kidfreediver":326lysb5 said:

Gelcoat is really easy. It's worth a try if not that anal or you can always grind it off.

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X2