2520mv bilge drainage, front and rear

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fisheron

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Currently working on a 91 2520mv project.

When blocked up and also on the trailer I have noticed the tendency of some bilge water to accumulate in the front cabin bilge area. I have a second pump in there so it will not accumulate to any depth but still I do not like to have it damp all the time.

With my gas tank now out I can see a glassed in tube connecting the front and rear bilge areas. Since I have a front bilge pump I am thinking of plugging that tube so that water from the rear deck and bilge will not run forward to the front cabin bilge area when the boat is at rest. Since the front bilge would get very limited water from mostly the rope locker I think isolating the front and rear would keep the front cabin bilge bone dry most of the time.

Any other 2520mv owners care to weigh in?
 
im having the same issue.. where is the glassed in tube located ? i thought maybe mine was clogged???? also how and where did you install the front bilge?
 
fisheron":ff3mel1e said:
Any other 2520mv owners care to weigh in?

I have the same boat and I would not even think of plugging that drain.

That forward bilge area is the lowest part of the hull.
The water that collects there comes from the anchor rode, rain, and wash water.
When you get underway and the bow rides high, the water that collects there drains back through that keel tube to the rear bilge.

It is possible to minimize the moisture, and also to use that water to your advantage.

When my boat is in my slip (or on your trailer), pop open the deck plate and let the forward bilge breathe.
If you are on a trailer, store the boat with the bow high so any accumulating water can drain to the rear bilge.
If on a trailer, as an added step you could remove the garboard plug so everything drains.

Just don't forget to replace the plug before launching!

Since my boat is wet slipped, I cannot store the boat bow high so I routinely add some Orange Zep citrus soap to the center bilge water.
The soap keeps the forward bilge area from getting funky and it keeps that keel drain clean too.
When I go out and jump her on plane, that soapy water makes its way to the rear bilge area keeping it clean, and allowing my rear pumps to dispose of it.

I upgraded all of my bilge pumps years ago, but if memory serves me correctly, the factory put a 400 gph in the forward bilge.
I upgraded mine to an 800 gph pump with a Water Witch 101 electronic switch.

In the rear, the factory provided a single 1000 gph pump. I upgraded to a pair of 1500 gph pumps with Water Witch 101 solid state switches.
The rear pumps are set up to use one as a primary, and the other as a backup. Photos provided.

You might want to consider those modifications while you are working on your project.
Hope this helps!
 

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Brent":2dyidqcl said:
When not is use, pull a deck plate install a solar fan or add one to an old plate. Fans cost around $60 from Amazon
Details in Projects or search on solar

It help keeps the bilge and forward bilge dry on my boat, and reduces odor

Did that on my boat as well.
The solar fans are in the deck while in the slip.
When I take her out, the fans are popped out and blank plates popped in.
Keeps the under deck area ventilated and dry.
 

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Better shot in the sunshine.
 

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togslayer":1k82j9yo said:
im having the same issue.. where is the glassed in tube located ? i thought maybe mine was clogged???? also how and where did you install the front bilge?

The tube is located under the gas tank, runs the whole length of the "coffin" the tank sits in. The forward pump was in the boat but looks like the prior owner added it.

Your tube may be partially clogged. I removed a lot of crud from mine..
 
fisheron":1h7jsxja said:
Your tube may be partially clogged. I removed a lot of crud from mine..

Use a drain snake and a garden hose to make sure that your drain is clear.
Start from the forward bilge hatch and flush rearward.
You might surprised how much 'crud' remains in the bilge from your boats construction.
Add to that, previous owners who let 'crud' fall into the bilge (like old zip ties) over time.

I have been flushing my bilge every spring since 2003, and I am still amazed at what I find every year.
 
Thanks for all the replys, hope my bilge is as squeeky clean as you guys one day! I really dont see much of a downside of isolating both bilges. They will back each other up if one fails but other than that I cant see much advantage.

*There is an issue I discovered that may be helpfull to other owners. When I removed my foamed in gas tank I was very surprised to find the foam under it was heavy and water logged. The tank compartment has no bottom drain and water that gets down in there will not freely evaporate back out. The foam was about 3"-6" thick and VERY HEAVY. When I got it all out I had several hundred pounds of wet foam The trash cans I put it in were a bitch to roll!

The good news was the other foam under the deck was bone dry and the stringers and bulkheads are still dry and strong. The foam on the sides of the tank was dry as well. My tank had no prior issues but since I was doing the floor I figured I might as well replace the 20+ year old tank. BOY,WAS I GLAD I GOT ALL THAT WEIGHT OUT OF THERE!

Initially i thought leaky tank acess plates caused all the problem. But I also discovered the pipe that runs under the tank was leaking as well. Read that again, THE PIPE THAT CONNECTS FRONT AND REAR BILGES LEAKS!!!
Mine was made with a 1/4 section of plastic pipe and covered with roving.

My new tank is ordered with a flat bottom. And that drain pipe (if i keep it) will be reglassed and totally filled to a flat surface with a arjay type filler for the new tank to sit on. No foam will be put back in my tank area. I cant say if some older parkers will have the same issue but I thought others on here would want to know. I would guess the wet foam under the 8' tank added 400+ pounds to the boat.

Which brings me full circle to my thread, I strive to keep my boats as dry as possable!
 
Cut out the original bilge drain tube today. Glad I did, very thin layer of mat over the plastic. Resin had flowed under it in spots during construction restricting the flow.

The plan right now is to replace with 1" or 1 1/4" cpvc pipe. Should allow much better drainage and I can still put a rubber plug in it if I want to stop the backflow into the front bilge.
 
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