New 2110 to do list

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Wet Willie

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Mar 22, 2017
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Location
Guinea, Va.
I just picked up a 2000 model 2110 with a 175 2 stroke/carb Yamaha (original motor) that a friend bought new and no longer had the time for. She hasn't been used much for the last 3 yrs. so I'm gonna "bring her back to life." Parts are on order and I'll get on it as soon as time allows and as my parts arrive. I'll try to include some pics and some observations along the way, and maybe throw out a question or two to some of ya'll that might be willing to help. Lol. So far, the list includes:

1 - New water pump impeller, thermostats, plugs, fuel filters, lower unit oil, for engine. (she's running pretty good right now but she has been sitting)
2 - New Yamaha multi function Tach and Speedo units (originals still work but the pixels are screwed up in the screens)
3 - Replacing ALL bilge pump thru-hull fittings and scuppers with stainless along with all related hoses (plastic looks uv damaged but still intact)
4 - Replacing fill, vent, and supply hoses from gas tank (they look OK now but I'm not taking any chances)
5 - Rebedding EVERYTHING on the transom (looks ok now but why not)
6 - Rebedding ALL deck plates / hatches and installing new o-rings and gaskets in them
7 - Reupholstering seats
8 - Clean cushions and carpet in the cuddy
I will keep ya'll posted on the project as I make headway, but I don't have a whole lot of time outside of work right now.
Hopefully I will be in the water by June..........Lol. Wish me luck.
 
sydngoose":1pet8mdl said:
Congratulations! Pictures pictures pictures: we need pictures ~!
Trying to load pictures but it won't let me. Says the file is too big. At work now so I'll have to do it from home tonight. Sorry guys.
 
I need a little help from "the 2110 brotherhood" if possible. I need one of the "gas cylinders" I guess you call it that holds the hatch open over the cuddy door. Mine is missing and the previous owner apparently took it off to find a replacement and then lost the original. If any of you could take a look at yours and see if there is a part #, name of manufacturer, or some info on it so I can order one I would geatly appreciate it. I called my local Parker dealer to try to find one and they won't even call me back. Guess they only help people who buy new boats from them. Lol. Anyhow,thanks guys, any help would be gretly appreciated!
 
Wet Willie":2f89jwcm said:
1 - New water pump impeller, thermostats, plugs, fuel filters, lower unit oil, for engine. (she's running pretty good right now but she has been sitting)

Add a new Popitt valve to that list. It's a item many time missed on those motors.
 
Thanks for the heads up Megabyte, will do. Not sure why I didn't think of that, too much excitement at once I guess. Lol. Thanks buddy!

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Rather than using a gas strut on my hatches I generally prefer a SS coil spring hatch holder like the ones from Moonlite Marine. Their website is http://www.moonlitemarine.com
My feeling is that a hatch like the one going into my cuddy is going to either be open 90 degrees or closed, nothing inbetween. The SS Spring is perfect for that application. I'm adding them to almost all of my small hatches in the cockpit.
The only reasons I see for gas struts are either to assist a heavy hatch or if you want to partially open a hatch.
 
rwp48":31zt34to said:
Rather than using a gas strut on my hatches I generally prefer a SS coil spring hatch holder like the ones from Moonlite Marine. Their website is http://www.moonlitemarine.com
My feeling is that a hatch like the one going into my cuddy is going to either be open 90 degrees or closed, nothing inbetween. The SS Spring is perfect for that application. I'm adding them to almost all of my small hatches in the cockpit.
The only reasons I see for gas struts are either to assist a heavy hatch or if you want to partially open a hatch.
Hey, thanks bud! I'll check out that site you recommended and see what I can come up with. I do appreciate the help!
 
Trying the pics again.
81c2ee1b095b59d13dd12fc323eda09c.jpg

Here she is in all her glory! Needs a litle TLC, she sure deserves it!

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
 
The 2110 is certainly a ClassicParker.
Its a shame they are no longer in production. I like that model.
 
Brent":2epmfmae said:
neat. check all OB anodes

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Thanks for the suggestion. It does need the zinc on the cavitation plate, I just forgot to put it on my (extensive) list. Lol. Ya'll keep the suggestions coming, I don't want to forget anyhing!
 
Megabyte":3ozn7rwq said:
Wet Willie":3ozn7rwq said:
1 - New water pump impeller, thermostats, plugs, fuel filters, lower unit oil, for engine. (she's running pretty good right now but she has been sitting)

Add a new Popitt valve to that list. It's a item many time missed on those motors.
I just ordered the parts for the popitt. Thanks for the reminder Megabyte!
 
Sadly, due to my work schedule, I don't have any time during the week to work on the boat but if the good lord's willing I'll have a few "progress pics" for ya'll by Monday. ALOT of my parts are in so I should be able to get quite a bit done over the weekend :D
 
As promised, I got alot of work done over the weekend. Actually, I got alot of stuff pulled apart, and prepped to go back together, not so much completed, but I'm "a little furter down the road". LOl. However, I did find that I have a "damp spot" in the transom. :cry: It appears that the transducer for the factory installed in dash depth gauge was letting a little water pass around the screws holding the bracket to the transom. The screen was bad on the gauge and I decided I was just going to remove the whole system from the boat and epoxy the holes in the transom. (One less thing below the water line to worry about.) When I removed the transducer I saw no evidence of moisture (water didn't run out) but when I drilled out the holes to "clean them out" to be filled I noticed dampness on the drill bit but the shavings were in tact so no rot appears to have started. The shavings are brown, not black thank god. These are the ONLY penetrations on the whole transom that showed any evidence of dampness so I'm pretty sure they are the root of the problem. Curious as to how extensive the dampness was I drilled a small 1/8" hole a few inches further down the slope of the deadrise and once again, damp bit but shavings intact and still brown. So I decided to drill one more hole ALL THE WAY DOWN to the bottom of where the core of the transom stops near the garboard plug to see what I was dealing with. I drilled this hole from the bilge to the outside all the way through so I could see for sure that I was in the right spot and once again, brown damp shavings and no evidence of rot, but when the bit came through on the outside of the hull approx. a half of a shot glass full of water ran out of the hole onto the shop floor. Needless to say, my heart sank. :(
 
These are the offending transducer holes and the two other holes I drilled.
b44d834f8c5592edb00bc2c5a28d4603.jpg
I opened the two exploratory holes up to 1/2" and drilled the transducer holes to 1/4" to make them easier to fill and to aid in hopefully drying it out. I have a fan blowing directly on the holes and the boat is inside a shop so HOPEFULLY it will dry out in a couple weeks. My local Parker dealer ordered my gel coat for me and said it would be 2 to 3 weeks before it shows up so with a little luck it'll dry out by the time I get it. Also, it appeared that the water was trapped in a void between the outer layer of glass and the core of the transom. It looks like there was a layer of some type of putty or adhesive or something that is visible in the holes furtherup on the transom that apparently doesn't go the whole way to the bottom of the core,thus creating this void. I'm thinking most of the water was trapped in this void which could explain why the wood shavings were as dry as they were? Maybe the wood is not too saturated? Only time will tell I guess. EVERYWHERE else on the transom was dry as a bone.

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On a happy note, I got my front bilge,rear bilge, and fish box drain thru hulls replaced. Also removed the two inspection plates and rear bilge hatch and got it all cleaned up for re-installation, resealed the trim tab actuator screws and also resealed where the lines go through the transom. I removed the two brass drain tubes from the splashwell and the two thru hull scuppers for the cockpit drains and got those areas all cleaned up and ready for epoxy. pics to follow.
 
Sorry about the size of the pics. Not sure what I did wrong or how to fix it. But, as you can see, I was happy to see that the design of the two inspection plates over the tank compartment and also the rear bilge hatch has the plywood core stopping short of the cut outs. Where the hatches screw in is all soild glass. No worry of water intrusion in these areas. I was pleasantly surprised. Also, I think the new stainless thru hulls and scuppers turned out pretty sweet! All of those holes from existing transducers will be epoxied and gel coated over as I will not be reusing those transducers. I will be installing a shoot thru transducer to keep below the water line penetrations to a minumum. I will be wetting out the holes for the splashwell drains and scuppers before re-installation. Lots to do but I got alot done!
 
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