How To Remove a Seacock???

My 2000 1801 has a 3/4 inch Buck Algonquin sea cock on the thru hull. Apparently the shaft snapped because it turns and the ball valve does not. The pieces are shown in the following 2 links:

https://www.amazon.com/Buck-Algonquin-S ... in+seacock

https://www.amazon.com/Buck-Algonquin-0 ... n+strainer

There are no screws in the triangular base of the seacock and 2 stainless screws in the leading edge of the scoop. Anyone know how they are held together other than thread compression? 5200? I put the largest wrench that I could swing on top of the seacock but could not budge it with the limited pressure that I could apply through that huge access in the rear deck. Hoping for a call back from Parker tomorrow.

It's just screwed together.

After hoses are removed......Large adjustable wrench or channel locks to spin the seacock off the stem of the scoop.

Then remove the screws in the scoop and remove it.

Yes it will have had a marine sealant smeared around the threads and mating surface.

Worst case solution.
One of my trawler friends had a similar situation. He took a grinder to the outside of flange of the seacock and ground it off. Then he was able to knock the threads up into the inside.

Thanks. I will try it again this weekend. The problem is not being able to get leverage laying on my stomach and working at arm's length through the small opening.
The ball was partially open and I was able to open it all the way with a screwdriver through the top. My last option is to just add a bronze nipple and ball valve to the existing seacock. I may then have to turn the pump horizontally because of a lack of height but I think it works the same.

These things freeze up, due to lack of use.

On a boat that stays in the water....They should be closed when boat in unattended. But on a trailer boat they just stay open and people forget....So they don't get exercised.

Mine stay closed, unless I am using my live well.

warthog5":2xend9fb said:

These things freeze up, due to lack of use.

On a boat that stays in the water....They should be closed when boat in unattended. But on a trailer boat they just stay open and people forget....So they don't get exercised.

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^^^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^

Well, here's how I got it off. Used a socket on top of the seacock, with a long breaker bar that reached all the way to the bulkhead at the front of the access hatch. Couldn't budge it by hand due to lack of leverage at arms' length down in the hole. So I stuck a 2 by 4 down there, and using the deck opening as a fulcrum, I levered the breaker bar over about 6 inches. That was all it took, and I was able to rachet it off from there.
It was installed with a rubber gasket underneath, with a hole for the scoop tube, cut from one of those square pieces of plumbers' rubber that you see in Lowes, the thicker size. I had some in the garage, so the new on went on the same.

Was cleaning up the Grady the next day, so I thought, "I better check that seacock." Very stiff, and not a full opening. I am hoping that I can pull the hose off the top, fill it with PB Blaster or similar, and get lucky. I was using it last fall. It has even less access, just a 6 inch pie plate a foot above it.

True seacock said have a threaded plug on the side. It's said to be a drain plug for freezing weather prep. But most of them I've seen have had the plug replaced with a grease zerk.

I would have certainly put a zerk in the one I just installed if I had known it was an option. Maybe can still do, and I will check the Grady also. Thanks.

thanks good idea

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I was able to put a zerk in the Grady seacock, and after a few back-and-forths, it freed right up and operated smoothly. If you do this, shoot the grease in with the ball valve open, so that you don't get a glop of grease in the line.
I was disappointed to find that Grady White had not used a true seacock, with a flange-to-hull connection, but just a ball valve perched on top of the thru hull scoop, with a collar nut instead of a flange, and a couple or three inches of thread exposed between the two.
I'll do the same to the Parker this week-end, just ran out of time.