New fuel tank install 2007 21se

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Flukenewsty

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So after many failed attempts To diagnose my fuel Leak/ water in fuel issues we finally decided To just pull the tank and do a new tank install. The issue was much worse than we initially thought with several gallons of fuel leaked into the sealed tank compartment. The foam was completely saturated with water and fuel. The fuel ended up eating a hole through the glassed in compartment and making its way into the bilge area. This is basically 100 percent accurate as to what Eric from Parker said would happen. This issue should never ever have happened if the tanks were installed correctly from day 1. What I have found is the foam does nothing but harbor moisture until it eventually eats away and makes holes in the tanks high leads to leaking fuel then holes in the compartment. There should be some sort of drain in the compartment to let water escape so this never happens in the first place. This boat is way to young to have issues like this and require such a major repair. Another big Thanks to ATLANTIC Marine in Wilmington NC for stepping up and helping with a new tank. This project has me off the water for about 2 weeks and out of pocket several thousand dollars in labor. I am just glad the dealer assisted with the tank and no one was injured or worse over the past couple boat rides as the fuel leak was not noticeable at all. ONE thing to not trust... This fuel tank passed 4 pressure tests!
 
The foam was completely saturated with water and fuel.

Alum is a self healing material. But it needs air to do it. Air creates a sort of protective film layer over the alum.

So... take away the air and enter water in that area and the problem arises.

2 things need to be done....... Stop the water intrusion.....BUT....The problem is it is VERY hard to tell if there is intrusion.
Plus it's in a high moisture environment and that sure doesn't help.

So.... If the alum is sealed from air and moisture then if moisture gets around it....It will be protected.
This is where Coal Tar Epoxy comes into play.

So the bare alum gets cleaned- sanded with a DA , 80gt and cleaned again. Then 2 coats of Coal Tar Epoxy get rolled on.

The tank gets set in place, lagged bolted in, so it doesn't push up when the foam goes in. 4lb density foam is used.

Then it's trimmed off flush with the top of the tank.

Then a layer of fiberglass is laid from the coffin to the top of the tank. This covers the foam.

This will make sure no water can get in the foam. Any water that leaks below the deck will sit on top of the tank.

And then this is why a limber hole on each side of the tank and drain to the bilge.

Install the tank like this and it will never be changed again. :)
 
I feel your pain Flukenewsty. I had a 21 SE and I went through the exact same thing you describe here. It isn’t easy to diagnose. I replaced the sending unit, replaced the hoses, had the tank scrubbed twice, etc. Ultimately, a pressure test revealed the culprit. In hindsight I should have pressure tested the tank right away. Thinking back on it I get extremely pissed… I had my family on that boat - leaking gas, with all the wiring running naked right across the top of the tank!

Warthog5’s description of a proper tank install is basically what I ended up doing. Coal tar epoxy - but I skipped the foam and followed Pascal’s method (allows air around the tank and allows water to flow out of the compartment). I spent about $5,000 but that included redoing all the non-skid.

My biggest problem on this topic is that Warthog5 is correct! By that I mean, we should not be talking about sound install methods that Parker should have done to begin with.

I now have a 2016 23DV and I’ve noticed that tank has a coating. Not sure what it is but it doesn’t appear to be coal tar epoxy. I have made it a practice of removing both pie plates over the tank and laying a fan over one of the holes to push air through the compartment. Ventilate, ventilate, ventilate!

Don’t get me wrong I love Parker’s (bought the shirt, took the tour, wear the hat, etc.). You can beat the stew out of them and still have a 20-30 year hull. …and I know, every boat has it’s quirks from, Sea Hunts to Yellowfins to Regulators, no boat brand is perfect. That being said, this tank issue is well known, very expensive, and most importantly it’s very dangerous! Every tank should be pressure test at the ±10-year mark.
 
I get the idea behind the ventilation, but what about us who keep our CC's at a marina? I wouldn't want to leave a pie plate off. What happens if you are away and it rains? Or a neighbor is washing off his rods in a T top and splashes some water on your deck?
 
but I skipped the foam and followed Pascal’s method (allows air around the tank and allows water to flow out of the compartment).

Here's my problem with Pascal's thinking.

That works on larger boats, as air can be forced thru the bilge.

On these smaller boats no air moves...It's a stagnate / wet environment.

Mounting a tank with a few tabs a screwed into the stringers can easily come loose. It's fine for holding the tank while foam is being pored.

A 75gal tank weighs more than 487lbs when it's full. That's a potential wrecking ball if it comes loose.

The coal tar protects the alum. The foam holds the tank securely. The foam trimmed even with the top of the tank and a layer of fiberglass bridging across the top of the tank and onto the stringers will keep water out of the foam.

These cures for the problem have been developed long after Pascal wrote that article.


Something I saw done last week. This was on a 21 Contender. Guy's installing a new tank. No tabs on the tank.

He puts a 2X4 across the boat and pushes wooden wedges under it to hold the tank down. Well he starts pouring and wedges slip. :( Yes the tank is installed at a slight angle.

If no tabs.....Cut a 4X4 to fit across the boat..Go buy one if you have to.

Set a floor jack on top of the tank. Jack it up against that 4X4 to keep pressure on the tank.

I'm also a believer in stepping up....anything over 60gal build it out of 3/16 instead of 1/8.
 
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