New 2801 going seamless......back to 3 piece boat

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

grouperjim

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2007
Messages
1,844
Reaction score
49
Location
St Pete/Islamorada
A project I had on the back burner for a while finally got done last week.

I know why ($$) Linwood went with the tuna door, insulated fish box, live well universal transom cap on the 25s and 28s. It has some nice features compared to the previous version but the two-piece construction where the gunwale cap mates to the new transom cap was killing me........I needed it to be all one piece like it used to be. Happy place now. 8)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1054.JPG
    IMG_1054.JPG
    89 KB · Views: 798
  • IMG_1037.JPG
    IMG_1037.JPG
    64.1 KB · Views: 798
  • IMG_1042.JPG
    IMG_1042.JPG
    53 KB · Views: 798
  • IMG_1061.JPG
    IMG_1061.JPG
    77.9 KB · Views: 798
  • IMG_1071.jpg
    IMG_1071.jpg
    78.4 KB · Views: 757
Looks great, looks like one side of the original area was higher than the other and damaged, how did that happen?

thanks
 
johnkn":3muy82x9 said:
Looks great, looks like one side of the original area was higher than the other and damaged, how did that happen?

thanks

None of the transom caps match up as they are not custom fit, or I should say ground to fit, faired then finished and caulked.......it's one size fits all. The thickness of the fiberglass is not even close to being the same between the two pieces. As well, the non-skid on the transom caps do not match the non-skid on the rest of the gunwale cap nor do they line up where the edges transition to smooth gelcoat. Now everything matches up like it should. It's apparent the factory saved a few bucks constructing it this way, but in any case I'll take the cost savings and make it meet my expectations. I do really like the features of the new transom cap.

The "damage" is the result of step one which is to grind everything out (caulk included) down to bare fiberglass, then on to step two which is to scarf it. Even though it is already structurally sound as is, I also glassed it 10 inches fore and aft underneath.
 
Jim like always, it looks like it turned out great. What did use, and how did match factory non-skid texture? I'm planning in redoing my cockpit tbis fall, and I would like to,make it look as close to the factory finish as possible.

Also, I'm trying to talk the boss into turning my 2320 into an open back. Any tips? Thanks.
 
cutch9138":34jlu20i said:
Jim like always, it looks like it turned out great. What did use, and how did match factory non-skid texture? I'm planning in redoing my cockpit tbis fall, and I would like to,make it look as close to the factory finish as possible.

Also, I'm trying to talk the boss into turning my 2320 into an open back. Any tips? Thanks.

The house on the 2003 and the 2006 are different. On my 2006 it was about a hour job and essentially involves popping out the windows and following the lines of the window openings vertically and horizontally. Very easy project. Get your canvas guy to make you a sunbrella back with a zip up door and you'll have the best of both worlds especially in the winter.

Matching Parker gelcoat has not changed at all over the years. Look at the first pic close up in this thread. You see 3 things in the texture.......small dots of gelcoat, medium dots, and then larger random blobs. Parker splatters this by hand. I don't know what kind of tool(s) they use but I am sure it is quick and efficient. I can match it exactly because I have had a lot of practice and have some simple tools that can make the small/medium dots and larger blobs that are put on that order. With the working time of gelcoat my methods work on small scale areas or touch up such as this project........and I'm working pretty fast. Doing a larger area really requires more efficient methods/tools so as not to waste gelcoat.

Good luck on your project.
 
99Parker2520":1uenihos said:
What tools do you use? Don't just leave us hanging!

Again small areas. Prevail sprayer with 2-3 oz of un-thinned gelcoat and at least 3 prevail canisters to change out as they clog and you can switch them out to finish using what gelcoat is left in the bottle. This will give you mostly the small textured dots some medium dots and a few blobs here and there.

I then use a tool I make that involves drilling and fitting 6 or so wooden tooth picks of equal length that I dip into to gelcoat for the medium dots to match the density/roughness of the Parker iteration. The larger irregular random blobs I use a round craft brush that sort of looks like a small barber's shaving cream applicator. You can use most anything for this. I have even flicked the larger blobs on with a stiff cheap chip brush but be careful doing it that way as you can get some pretty big splatter which brings out the barber brush to fix. You have to work really fast even on a small project. If you lose your gelcoat and aren't quite happy with it let it get tacky as long as it is tacky you can make another pass at it later.

Finally when you're happy with it, the most important step is to be standing by with the a prevail sprayer with PVA (wax). As soon as the the gelcoat gives you the first hint gelling or beginning to kick mist on a layer of PVA to shut it off from the air. Wash (water/wet towel) off the PVA 24 hrs (or more) later. Press down on a blob with your finger nail which will be slightly tacky but hard and will not dent. If this is the case, use some clean lint free rags make several single wipes with acetone. This will remove all the tackiness. Wax it and go fishing.

As always if you screw it up sand it smooth and try again.
 
That looks awesome man, now come and do mine as it bothers the crap out of me as well :mrgreen:
 
Brent":1hz8ivm4 said:
Did you remove the rub rail or just cut to it?

Definitely off. Scarf goes all the way around.......cap is 100 percent one piece now. You can see some of the starboard rub rail in the last pic laying in the boat as I had not put it back on yet.
 
I finally got around to finishing up the gunwale caps. Made a set of coaming bolsters out of 1/2 Proboard and had my canvas guy match the color of the cap. He also incorporated some nylon mesh on the bottom to allow drainage. Added extra CE Smith rod holders all the way around. Since I now have plenty of (quality) rod holders I modified the Parker plastic rod/cup holder combos so they will take drinks only (no rods).

Also add Sirius Sat/wx radar which I have had on my Parkers and really liked.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1460.JPG
    IMG_1460.JPG
    113.5 KB · Views: 340
  • IMG_1455.JPG
    IMG_1455.JPG
    90.4 KB · Views: 340
  • IMG_1462.JPG
    IMG_1462.JPG
    100.9 KB · Views: 340
Thanks guys.

Now that I am finished with her, I've got to say that I am 100 percent impressed with this boat. My 23s were so nimble but yet solid/rigid and tough I never thought a hull of this length would be the same but it is. It is a twin of the 23dvcc with a little extra beam, length and extra ponies. This boat is tough as nails like the 23, handles very similar to the 23, planes in 3 sec and gets 2.0 mpg at 3500/35mph........just incredible performance-wise and fuel efficient as well.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9880.jpeg
    IMG_9880.jpeg
    125.9 KB · Views: 300
Back
Top