1999 225hp Yamaha saltwater series

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Parkercav23

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Location
Caldwell New Jersey
Hi all
I'm looking to install the Blue Sea add a battery plus kit. It has the charger and automatic relay switch all in one. I'm all set with matirials and have it planed out but I'm having trouble finding out how many amps the altonator / stator my 225 puts out. I'm assuming 65 amps. But just want to be sure to have the proper size wire hooked up. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I did the same project and used 35 amp breakers to protect the wires to match max output of the SWSII 225. I have since repowered to F300 and had to double the size of breakers - you are welcomed to my 35's. Sent you a PM.
 
TimC2520":1pn3r79n said:
I have a 1999 225 OX66 (S225TXRX) and my owners manual says "Alternator output = 12-35 amps." It's on page 4-1.
Max is 35 but even at that rate, the engine needs about 10+- for itself a Yam master tech once told me.......

They can be downloaded here....


http://yamahaoutboards.com/owner-res...owners-manuals
Thank you. Exactly what I was looking for.
 
jpg1969":18tqfrsx said:
I did the same project and used 35 amp breakers to protect the wires to match max output of the SWSII 225. I have since repowered to F300 and had to double the size of breakers - you are welcomed to my 35's. Sent you a PM.

I sent you a pm and will take you up on your offer. I'm new to the site but I love it already. Thank you.
 
I appreciate the help guys. I do have my work cut out for me. It's an older boat with tons of wire. At this point i'm just trying to learn the ins and out of the electrical system. Ive cleana bunch of old wiring out so far and started to replace a lot already. But I'm hoping to have most of if finished up this holiday weekend. Here some pics of what I'm dealing with.
 
Anyone with advice on dealing with the wiring I'd appreciate it. I'm to the point that it might be easier to pull most of it and start from scratch. A lot of is has some corrosion as it's not tinned wire.
 
A big thing is the boat manufactures have no provisions to tie the wiring down.

While this kit may seem expensive....It works very well.

http://www.weldmountsystem.com/applications-marine.php

Don't even think about using the mounts with the double sided tape. They will last just long enough to get the boat out the driveway.


This is the type work I do and I'm anal about it. A clean wiring system will save you and impress your friends.....If they know what they are looking at?

All bends should be 90degs when laying stuff out.

You start at the Heart ...... The Battery/ Batteries...... I have certain battery trays that I use... I hate those stupid plastic straps that still let your batteries slide. This is a Attwood battery tray. When you loosen the tie downs they are removed to get them out of the way....Unlike some....This may make all the differance in the world where batteries are stuck in boats.

41bgVBmahgL.jpg


I install BEP battery Cluster switches..... This one is for a single engine and dual batteries

http://www.bepmarine.com/en/716-sq-140a-dvsr

It's superior to the Blue Seas -Add a battery, because it takes up less room and is so much more easier to understand which battery your actually connecting.....It has built in jumper cables and does things that take the worry out of battery management .



Wiring a boat correctly is not inexpensive....Using top grade materials..

I could write a whole book here....But I'm not going to.


The #1 main thing I see that is bad.......

Factory rigged boats have it, dealer rigged boats have it and people do it because they are cheap or ignorant.


It's the use of bare copper battery cable ends....... Don't use them.....They corrode! Use the tinned copper ends.

290957.jpg






Your going to need the proper tool to crimp them...... Don't even think about doing it with a vise.
 
warthog5":volczjji said:
A big thing is the boat manufactures have no provisions to tie the wiring down.

While this kit may seem expensive....It works very well.

http://www.weldmountsystem.com/applications-marine.php

Don't even think about using the mounts with the double sided tape. They will last just long enough to get the boat out the driveway.


This is the type work I do and I'm anal about it. A clean wiring system will save you and impress your friends.....If they know what they are looking at?

All bends should be 90degs when laying stuff out.

You start at the Heart ...... The Battery/ Batteries...... I have certain battery trays that I use... I hate those stupid plastic straps that still let your batteries slide. This is a Attwood battery tray. When you loosen the tie downs they are removed to get them out of the way....Unlike some....This may make all the differance in the world where batteries are stuck in boats.

41bgVBmahgL.jpg


I install BEP battery Cluster switches..... This one is for a single engine and dual batteries

http://www.bepmarine.com/en/716-sq-140a-dvsr

It's superior to the Blue Seas -Add a battery, because it takes up less room and is so much more easier to understand which battery your actually connecting.....It has built in jumper cables and does things that take the worry out of battery management .



Wiring a boat correctly is not inexpensive....Using top grade materials..

I could write a whole book here....But I'm not going to.


The #1 main thing I see that is bad.......

Factory rigged boats have it, dealer rigged boats have it and people do it because they are cheap or ignorant.


It's the use of bare copper battery cable ends....... Don't use them.....They corrode! Use the tinned copper ends.

290957.jpg






Your going to need the proper tool to crimp them...... Don't even think about doing it with a vise.

Thanks for the advice. I order all my wires and terminal ends from Best Boat Wire. So every thing is tinned and I'm using heat shrink where it's needed. I like the weld mount a lot. I'll probably use that down the road at some point. Quick question about the battrey tray. Should the battrey be in a battrey box and cover or just use the trat that you suggested. All of my battrey cables are bare cooper and some are open ended. I cleaned them up for now the best I could but they will get replace in the near future. Is it cheaper to purchase custom made cables or make your own. The proper tools to make them are a big expense to only make them hopefully once. Also is it ok to do away with the factory harness to the switch panel and start from scratch. Half of the wires are no longer used and corroded. If I do that do I need to use color coding or just label all circuits?
 
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