Windlass???

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linesider

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Ok, I'm tired of scurrying up to the bow of my 2520 XL to launch the anchor!! I'm finally ready to pull the trigger and the research I've done has my head spinning. I fish the Chesapeake (so I'm relatively shallow) please help out with preferences! I know everyone will have an opinion, and I want to hear them all! I was ready to pull the trigger on the lewmar profish 1000, but it has some nasty reviews. HELP!
 
Did you do it yourself? Can you share any pics of the job or of it now. How much was it after wires etc? I'm thinking about making it my next years project so interested in this topic also.
 
Had one installed last winter on my 2520. It was recommended to extend the pulpit further back so the windlass is over the deepest part of the locker.
Ignore the leaves, it was parked under a tree during a bad storm.
 
The one that Tim C has is a vertical windlass....You need a Much deeper anchor locker for that style......Or you need to be in shallow water most of your life, as it limits the lengthh of the rode. This is because a Vertical needs a LOT of space/drop for the rode and that style is Hogging up the space.

This is why we recommend the Horizontal unit already spoken of.

Yes I have pix's......No you can't see them because PhotoBucket has Highjacked every account and held it for ransom.
 
Off topic but I agree with your Photobucket comment, what a scam. I use Imageshack

byoQgk.jpg
 
Several questions on wiring:
1. I'm fairly sure that you need a resettable breaker similar to the style I just used at my bat switch that goes to the house bus, but what size/Amps?
2. What size/gauge wires do you need for that 700 series?
3. Do you need to run your windless wires all the way back to the batteries & use the house bat? Or just to the buses at the helm? Curious if that depends on how large a gauge your + & - wires are that go to the buses at the helm?
4. Ball park on how many amps it draws?
5. Is the remote for that unit wired or wireless?

Thanks, wife and other crew are getting tired of handling the anchor for me and may treat them to this upgrade for next springs project?
 
Several questions on wiring:
1. I'm fairly sure that you need a resettable breaker similar to the style I just used at my bat switch that goes to the house bus, but what size/Amps?
60amp

2. What size/gauge wires do you need for that 700 series?
I have 4ga on mine

3. Do you need to run your windless wires all the way back to the batteries & use the house bat? Or just to the buses at the helm? Curious if that depends on how large a gauge your + & - wires are that go to the buses at the helm?
Yes and I attach it to the Start battery. It's a high load item....Your really not supposed to pull the boat around with a windless, so the motor is running and bump in & out of gear, while using the windless to retrieve the ground tackle.


4. Ball park on how many amps it draws?
Never checked it under a load.[/quote]


5. Is the remote for that unit wired or wireless?
Wireless

I'd suggest you go to the manufactures site and look at the instillation instructions....It would have answered most of your questions.

Now there are pieces needed that do not come in the kit. When you buy the kit... They want you to install a up/down switch on the helm...I never use that switch. It's a Lot of amps to go thru that switch.

I buy and install the relay. Look at page 7

http://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/fil ... 20iss1.pdf

And yes I use larger feed cable than the instructions say. This is to have the least amount of resistance.

I also use a different CB that comes with the windless for neatness. I usually install a surface mount unit. The one that comes with it is designed to go in a cut hole. There is a way around that. Use a Gray plastic AC electric box that a household switch goes in. buy the flat cover plate.... Cut that hole in the cover plate and mount the box.

All these pix's are on my thread. but again... PhotoBucket. :( I have Thousands of pix's that show details of how to's.
 
Google Lewmar Pro fish manual....most all of your questions will be answered . When you buy the winch the circuit breaker, the dash rocker switch and the contractor all come with it. You will only have to buy the wire and connectors.
Try Best Boat Wire. com The manual calls for 10 ga. primary however when I got mine there was an update for 8 ga.
I used 10 ga because I had already ordered the wire. Tip order 100 ft of white wire and mark the ends with tape or marker if you have a long run. Boat wire only sells in 25 ft or 100 ft lengths. You will need to run your wires from a battery to the contactor , which is up to you where you decide to mount it. The remote is wireless. Keep in mind that this is a free fall unit and once the anchor launched there is no need for a remote. Only need on retrieval if necessary, cheaper to install a foot switch up near the winch to deal with hockles in the rode ,which really should not happen on retrieval. If on deployment if you get a jamb up you must have a way to undo from the underside of the winch .

Sorry I have several pics but I am too old to figure how to move them from Ipad to this post. I can email them to you

[email protected]
 
I'll disagree with Charles. He did not bother to figure the voltage drop.

Most strategic items use a 3% Voltage Drop when figuring the wire size. Others try and stick to 5%.

From the instructions

Windlass performance is directly related to cable size and length. Voltage drop over the complete
wiring run must not exceed 10%

That's to much to suit me......And WILL effect performance!

These boats end up with a 50ft circuit...Or Damn close to that. 25ft for the NEG and 25ft for the POS.

Running the numbers in my wire calculator

12V 50ft 50amps = 6ga and that with a 10% Voltage drop.

The same numbers and using 4ga......which is what I have, gives you 6% Voltage Drop



12V 50ft 50amps with 10ga = 25% Voltage Drop.

Lets look at it with the motor running and the supply voltage is 14.2

12V 50ft 50amps 10ga = 20% Voltage Drop

12V 50ft 50amps 4ga = 5% Voltage Drop


Which do you think will preform better?


As to buying White and marking the ends..... Typical of backyard and being Cheap.

Remember I do this stuff all the time. :)
 
Good points Wart. I didn't catch the white wire reference, maybe typo? Anyway, I lean towards over sizing the wire vs. pushing the limits of its capacity. I read much about this topic and voltage drop when I did my inverter bat switch project this year. The mounting instructions for the 700 reference it including a 50 Amp breaker and it also states running Amps at 35A. Surprisingly, it calls for 10G to 8G wire for lengths in our range. I also don't think people realize that you need to measure it in terms of round trip runs? My 2120 would probably still end up between 45 and 50' so I would use at least 6G reguardless of their instructions, 4G would definitely be good though. I'd rather have cool wires than hot ones and electric motors don't like voltage drop.
 
Thanks Wart You have some good info, but the cheap shot was not necessary !!!!! Don't you work in your backyard ?

The instructions from Lewmar call for 10 ga. then they put out an addendum to drop to 8 gauge in the box with the winch. You should direct your expertise to the engineers at lewmar as you should know they always over/under size. !0 ga. works just fine for me pulling 600ft of rode with no heated wires due to the placement of the contactor. As for the white wire ,who cares you can't see it and why buy 200 ft when you are only going to use less than 100?? There is a big difference when spending your own money for a project. If I were doing it for a customer it would maybe be different. :wink:
 
Thanks for your good information on the 700 CaptCharles. I'm sure your white 10G is working fine and you are happy with your project. Im attaching these pics and info just to advance the conversation and for others learning benefit, no offense meant to you Sir. That said, the only real issue I see with using the white wire is going forward is with other potential owners of your boat and any potential confusion. This is why if a professional surveyor was doing the inspection this would be flagged? It would just be an ABYC code issue. Blue Seas Systems has a great App that is a wire gauge calculator. If you go to their web site you can see the link to download it. It's pretty cool. I ran the numbers using a 5% voltage drop and with a 10% drop, which was the MAXIMUM VD recommendation in the instructions(the App will also let you set any voltage drop %). I also used the 35Amp running draw as stated in the 700 instructions. Looking at the 10% results you can see why the engineers list the 10G wire but you can also see why they changed to 8G based on the tight numbers of the 10G. Looking at the 5% VD you can also see where Wart comes up with 4G. It basically comes down to minimums vs. personal feelings on the amount of voltage drop and excess capacities for safety sake IMO. I hope this information is helpful to others doing wiring related projects.
 

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Not to keep beating the drum , disregard the tip in my earlier post the only white wire I used was for a foot switch in the bow which that 16 ga. all other wires to and from are red and black.

NOTE ALL the info provided is great and if I had all that prior to my installation I would have done different but it's too late now. :lol:
THANKS
 
Good makes other types of windlass's and it is a superior unit to a Lewmar but the Lewmar works fine. Just remember to use 8 plaite rode and you will not have any problems.
 
A related suggestion is to add safety device, I could only imagine what would happen if the anchor accidentally released at 57 mph. I purchased a coated cable and latch, went to install it today but the bolt that goes through the pulpit was to short. That darned pulpit is like 3" thick. I'll modify the cable and reinstall.
 
Thanks Wart You have some good info, but the cheap shot was not necessary !!!!! Don't you work in your backyard ?

Yes....Just not under a tree and or in the dirt. I have in excess of $100K worth of tools in my shop.


I see all kinds of hodge podge stuff all the time.

Any instulation needs to be looked at using a Voltage drop calculator.. The instructions are a good guide....But You did not see anything in them that talked about distance....Therefore the astute installer needs to do some figuring .

And Yes......The Total Circuit is figured..... The POS side + the NEG side = the Total Length.
 
johnkn said:
The instructions are a good guide....But You did not see anything in them that talked about distance....

Not quite correct, Manual-prp-fish-product-manual.pdf Page 6 Chart for Cable sizing for length of cable run up to 40 ft
10 awg.


Note that the wires that come out of the winch housing are 10 ga. So with all this info I proceeded with install and as noted I have at this time have not had any problems, maybe in the future maybe not

As noted prior Thanks for the info. :D
 
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