Raymarine S1000 install

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TunaJoe

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Purchased the S1000 from Jim at BOE and proceeded to install the thing.

I've never worked with hydraulics so I researched the whole process and of course, the AP kit came with darn near everything you need.

I personally found the install somewhat complicated by the fact that I needed to re-route the hoses with different fittings than what came with the kit.
On a 2007 2520XL, if you use the fittings provided, the hoses will stick out the enclosure and are too stiff to bend without kinking the hoses.




So after a bit of research, I made numerous trips to Home Depot, Lowes, and ACE Hardware looking for the exact fittings in the "Bermuda Triangle" section of the store. You know the aisle where the thousands of brass fittings with all different shapes and threads reside? And no clerk dares come over to help because they can see the desperation written all over your face.

So I ended up getting all the parts needed, along with 1/4" brass ball valves as recommended by SeaStar.
Per SeaStar: Must have at least 100psi working pressure.
Valve must have zero bypass. Brass and stainless are both ok.

SeaStar also recommended NO Teflon tape be used. They told me get a LIQUID pipe sealant with Teflon. Unable to find liquid, I used paste.

RM recommends Loctite 542 for the threads, but was difficult to find. BTW, nothing goes on the hydraulic line end of the fitting.

 

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Continuing......

Here is a close up of the fittings and design.

Here is the pump connected and ready to be bled.
 

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More....

so after bleeding (which too forever as I had tons of air in the lines. Bleeding seems to go better if you turn the wheel very slowly) I needed a place to install the pump. I had read that the pumps were noisy and the only place I had to install it was on the shell that incases the wiring.

This enclosure is a very thin piece of glass and almost seems like it would increase the noise factor so I looked for some way to minimize the noise.

I found a piece of Starboard and cut it to size, then ran down to the ACE hardware to look for something to act as a shock absorber. I found these rubber feet that were perfect!

I bought 6 of them and then drilled 2 holes thru the bottom and took a stainless bolt and ran the bolt thru the rubber foot, the starboard and the bottom of the enclosure. This secured the pump inside the housing. Hopefully helps a bit with vibration too.
 

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Computer was placed on the starboard side of the enclosure.

View of the SeaTalk bus.

I connected all the wires, mounted the horn, and then proceeded to follw directions to check for leaks.
The instructions direct you to turn the wheel all the way port till it "pops".
This increases pressure and then you are to check for leaks. I have one small leak on the port pump fitting. Bummer.
Anyone know if these could self seal? I really don't want to take it apart and bleed the system. The wife has already expressed dismay over having to possibly turn the wheel for an hour!

Also, I found it interesting that RM provides darn near everything for this install, even the gloves and drill bit!
However, no wiring or connector for the rf ground ( don't even know what that is) Do Parkers have a grounding plate? Do I really have to run a wire all the way to the battery terminal?

I also don't like the cheezy kill button. I made the mistake of connecting the pieces together and looks like they won't be coming apart. Wasnt going to use it anyways.


I'll report back after I actually go out and seatrial it.
 
ooops!, forgot the last pictures
 

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Good job on the install. I did mine last year and it was the 2nd best farkle I added to the boat, right behind the seaspension seats.

Mr. "Otto Pilot" sure makes those long hauls 100 x more relaxing.
 
TunaJoe: I also installed the S1000 and it is noisy. How is noise level from your installation. I like the shocks and the white board-great idea. If you tell me it is quiet I might have to copy from you.
 
SommerTime":3vqnxcfn said:
TunaJoe: I also installed the S1000 and it is noisy. How is noise level from your installation. I like the shocks and the white board-great idea. If you tell me it is quiet I might have to copy from you.

Just out of curiosity, when is it that you find it noisy?
 
I find it slightly noisy only at slow speeds. The pump makes a ratta tat tat noise.
But cruising, don't even notice it or hear it.

I made the board with rubber feet because where I mounted the pump, the enclosure seemed to magnify the noise and reduce the vibration.

BTW, tested the AP this weekend, and it worked like a charm!
This thing is by far, the best bang for the buck!

I should also say, I had to remove the ball-valves as I could not get them to stop leaking at the fittings to the pump. I tightened them as much as I dare, but still leaked. Both sides.

Removed the valves, installed the 90 that came with the AP, and no more leaks.
I'm wondering if the RM fittings were a tapered fitting vs a regular NPT type fitting?
 
Yes. OK. The noise comes in two forms. The vibration from the pump, which you seem to have isolated and adapted. And, the noise from the pump itself as it pressurizes either valve to make the wheel turn.

I don't why but mine does the same thing. A little noisy at slow, trolling speeds. At regular speeds, straight course to a waypoint, I barely hear a thing.
 
TheOtherLine: I hardly if ever use my autopilot for cruising, I use it exclusively for trolling. Thus I have low engine noise, 150hp four stroke Yamaha at idle speed, and the noise from the pump stand outs by its constantly correcting the heading since the seas are usually a little choppy and we are going as close as possible to 3mph since that is the slowest you can troll without the autopilot dropping out of control.
 
One thing I forgot to add, is that when testing the AP, I went to the front of my boat and tried to steer the boat with the wireless remote, but it wasnt too effective.

Anyone else have this experience?
 
SommerTime":nf0pw3vu said:
TheOtherLine: I hardly if ever use my autopilot for cruising, I use it exclusively for trolling. Thus I have low engine noise, 150hp four stroke Yamaha at idle speed, and the noise from the pump stand outs by its constantly correcting the heading since the seas are usually a little choppy and we are going as close as possible to 3mph since that is the slowest you can troll without the autopilot dropping out of control.

Yep. Exactly. The corrections put the pump to work and I too get a lot of noise.

While I do use it for trolling, I mostly use it for those 10-50 mile trips offshore. In any slop, it makes life soooo much easier.

Tuna Joe: The remote works great for steering. Do you realize that each click or press of the directional button is, I believe, only a 1 degree change in direction? If you want to effect a more significant change in direction, you press and HOLD the directional button.. I can't recall if it caps out at a 5 degree change at a time or not. For some reason I think there is a limit but I may be wrong.

Do you see the arrows in the display? Is your course changing at all? If not, check the batteries on the remote. The s1000 remote is a battery hog. Look at the remote display when changing course.
 
TunaJoe":38byr8nz said:
I also don't like the cheezy kill button. I made the mistake of connecting the pieces together and looks like they won't be coming apart. Wasnt going to use it anyways.

Just need to put a little lipstick on that pig.....
 

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Here is how I installed my Furuno 500 pump at my second station. By using stainless quick-disconnects, shutoff valves are not needed, and you can breakout pump pronto if needed.
 

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