Seafoam motor treatment? Or Stabil?

Anyone use either, Seafoam or Stabil Marine in the tank with other additives? Carbs have gummed up on me clogging main jets ('04 Yam 150 2 stroke), so having them cleaned and rebuilt. Have already been using RingFree and Startron regularly, but curious if adding something new to help keep carbs clean to the mix might be an issue. Not sure if there is a better option (other then get out and use the boat more frequently) : Seafoam as an internal cleaner (once the carbs have been cleaned) or Stabil Marine as a preservative.

I have/do use both. I wish I knew which if either is working better. I also use the Ringfree but not every tank. I have run the Ringfree and the Seafoam at the same time but probably only a couple of times. I mostly add the Seafoam a few time during the season to keep the injectors clean and both Marine Stabil and Seafoam when I'm doing my last couple of trips out for the season. I'll pour an entire can of Seafoam and a good heavy dose of the Stabil in with about 20 or so gallons of fresh gas. I'm assuming that I usually have about 20 gallons still in the tank. That's 1 to 2 bars on the yamaha guage @ 100 gal tank. I make sure that for the very last run I use most of the gas up in my tank, shooting for having less than 20 gallons. I use the theory of running the tank as low as I feel comfortable with to be able to idle the 10 minutes to the marina on for the first spring gas. My logic is that I want very highly treated gas sitting in the engine and the tank when it's going to sit unused. All this said, I only run marina gas. I will not run pump gas with Ethanol. Also, the climate in Beaufort is moderate and I usually run my boat till about the end of December and I'm back out again sometime in March. That obviously makes a difference and allows me to get away with this strategy. So far so good with about 10 years of this method between my old 115 Yam 2 stroke and now my fuel injected F225. If you don't run you boat very often a different approach may be needed such as running the fuel out?? There is nothing worse for a boat engine than not getting used/ran. Hope this helps some.

Thanks. As long as I can be somewhat confident that I won't get any kind of bad interaction between additives, I guess I'll be OK. They both have labels warning about being combustible, so they should at least burn.

Picked up a large bottle of Stabil 360 marine from local auto parts store and will start using that with each fillup. Both Seafoam and Stabil 360 claim to clean gum and varnish deposits, but that's probably given clean system to begin with. It took 10 years before my first fuel issue so if it's another 10 before this happens again, it will probably be for the next owner to deal with. I ain't gettin' any younger.

I had a 2003 150 HPDI. My home port is in a "special EPA zone." Straight gas isn't available at the pump here. After injector problems and changing fuel filters on the water a number of times, I bit the bullet and bought an F200 inline four that's been an improvement in speed, torque and economy. I used Stabil and Ringfree with the HPDI, but currently use Ringfree, Marine Stabil and Pri-G (a friend with a plane recommended it) for gas. So far no problems with the F200.

Anecdotally, I gave my spare fuel filters to the guy who bought the 150 HPDI. He owns a business that sells straight gas and uses it with the Yammie. The last time I talked to him he said he had no problems with it.

Alcohol and other issues mangle your fuel.
I use only premium because we run less than three gallons a week. I use a lot of Blue (marine ) STABIL
I then winterize using Marine STABIL and AIrcraft Gasoline which has no alcohol and has a minimum lifespan of 2 years.
I used a surface tank for the last boat. After the floors and stringer disappeared we picked up another 25 yesterday.
The tank seems to be OK and I am planning on draining it for the winter.

Thanks for the replies. As usual, a great place for information on a lot of different things.

Luckily, it doesn't appear to be an actual fuel issue (water, phase separation, etc.) this time. More like evaporation of fuel in the carbs leaving behind its calling card. Not surprising as family issues kept me from using the boat much at the end of last season letting her sit for a couple weeks at a time. It got pulled, winterized, launched late in May and then still haven't had the time to use it much this season.

When I fill up, I add Stabil, Star*Tron, and Ringfree at the rate of 1 ounce per every 10 gallons of fuel.
No issues with any interaction.

Don't worry if your go over the 1 ounce per 10 gallons guide, I have been doing this in my 1997 Yamaha OX66 since 2003 and have never had a fuel issue since implementing this plan.
As an aside... I also use Pennzoil full synthetic oil rather than the typical semi-syn. No smoke, no problems.

Hope this helps.

That will be the same cocktail I'll be using. I figured someone would already be doing it. Thanks

Johnsw I have same motor. Curious did you pull carbs off and send just carb for cleaning? How much was it and when replaced did it require tuning?

After doing what I was able to identify and isolate as fuel delivery problem, I left the carb work to my mechanic. As for cost, still waiting for the bill. Got a call from mechanic a few days ago and boat is back in slip and he reports running better. WOT has improved from unsteady, erratic 4.6K to steady running 5.2K. That's about right with the prop I've got. I'll be down to check it out this weekend. (Trust but verify)

A warning to those contemplating aviation gas. Check the composition before you buy. Most airports carry 100 LL gas which has lead in it. (LL = Low-lead) lead can foul up the valves on an outboard. I researched this to find a straight gas just to winterize my motors. The best thing to buy is Sunoco Optima. It's 95 octane, no ethanol or methanol, and no lead. I use this for my small motors, lawn, chainsaw, trimmer, etc. It ain't cheap but gets you away from the damned ethanol problems.