2017 Suzuki Winterization

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99Parker2520

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Have a 2017 Suzuki 300. What else do I need to do for the cold NE winter?

Changed Motor Oil
Chanced Lower Unit Oil
Added Stabilizer, Ran For 20 Minutes
Greased All Fittings That I Could Find
Removed Prop, Inspected, Greased Prop Shaft And Re-Installed Prop

What Else?
 
Store in Down position....Do not tilt it up.....Water will freeze if caught in the prop area if tilted
 
What are people's thoughts on coating the cylinders with fogging oil?

In this context, I am talking about a light spray of fogging oil directly into the spark plug holes, not spraying fogging oil into the air intake while engine is running.

I've read mixed reviews - and doesn't appear to be mentioned in the Suzuki owner's manual or service manual.

-- Tom
 
TomS":1pzbs2n6 said:
What are people's thoughts on coating the cylinders with fogging oil?

I used to do it with my OX66, but not sure about a 4-stroke.
I would start it in the spring, burn off the fogging oil, and replace the plugs.
My guess is that if you decide to go this route, a 4-stroke would be similar.

Another consideration would be... how long will the boat be in storage for the winter?
If only a couple of months, maybe fogging isn't needed.
 
Yes do it. There are 1 or 2 valves always in the open position , depending on where the engine stopped. This means those cylinders are open. IE: moisture can get in there.

I personally never do it, but then I dont winterize my boat. I live in Flllllooooordia. :mrgreen:

We just might take a cruise on Jan 1st.
 
Rub it in lol.... I usually have the boat in a few times over the winter when I get the itch to go but the spray is mighty cold.

I a a 140 Suzuki and will usually run an aux fuel tank with a heavy dose of fogging oil and fuel stabilizer mixed into it.
 
Did you Replace Internal ZInc Anodes on Outboard Engine?
 
No i did not....will look in the spring. The motor has about 25 hrs on it.
 
warthog5":1vd2ea2k said:
Yes do it. There are 1 or 2 valves always in the open position , depending on where the engine stopped. This means those cylinders are open. IE: moisture can get in there.

I personally never do it, but then I dont winterize my boat. I live in Flllllooooordia. :mrgreen:

We just might take a cruise on Jan 1st.
Right, it does not get cold and ice in Florida, sure,, where you have two seasonal regions. The one further south of you only turns folks hair blue you know. :p

ALERT - Wind Chill - Advisory
Pensacola, FL
Updated January 2, 6:45 AM
22°F

C


43°

22°


Precipitation: 0%

Wind: 11 MPH

Humidity: 67%


Mostly clear

·Tue 2, 7:03 AM
Our normal routine is to do Christmas and New Years. This year Global Warming left us before the ball dropped in Times Square though. :cry: And its not going to get any better for a while. Normally the cold weather shows up around the end of Jan for a couple of weeks, which allows us to get some general maintainance done like changing the impeller and even the oil if that's not been done after the fall season is over with.
 
Today here in NE it was a beautiful day of vacation and to wrap up the season with the boat before the snow so I stabilized the fuel and ran the motor for about 20 minutes in a barrell. Before turning off the motor I pushed the throttle and at 3000 rpm's it started to run rough and would not go any higher. Now I'm thinking I have a fuel issue with a motor that has 50 hours and the motor has not been run in about six weeks. Not a good year for me on the water but need to address asap. I just ordered the maintenance kit from Browns Point and I'm hoping the fuel filters do the trick. I will see if I can post a quick video of the motor running today. Think I am headed in the right direction your thoughts?
 
There is NOTHING wrong with your motor.

It's designed that way.

In a No Load situation......[Not in Gear] It will hit the Rev limiter and will not go over 3000RPM.

Now you need to go read the owners manual. :) It's in there.
 
99Parker2520":mqu60dbp said:
Today here in NE it was a beautiful day of vacation and to wrap up the season with the boat before the snow so I stabilized the fuel and ran the motor for about 20 minutes in a barrell. Before turning off the motor I pushed the throttle and at 3000 rpm's it started to run rough and would not go any higher. Now I'm thinking I have a fuel issue with a motor that has 50 hours and the motor has not been run in about six weeks. Not a good year for me on the water but need to address asap. I just ordered the maintenance kit from Browns Point and I'm hoping the fuel filters do the trick. I will see if I can post a quick video of the motor running today. Think I am headed in the right direction your thoughts?
My 250 did the same. Found out Suzuki fuel filter -(primary) does not like Stabilizer witch has oil in it. It’s the small gas filter in the front of eng. we all use Stabilizer so I use half the doses now. The good thing is these filter are cheap in price. Buy 2 or 3 and keep one on boat. It cost me $650 at a Suzuki dealer to find this out as the mechanic first replace the fuel sensor- all fuel lines going from tank to motor. Suzuki mechanic said don’t use any additives to gas. Just 1/2 the amount of Stabilizer for winter. If boat is stored for 6 months or less - no Stabilizer is needed !!!
 
Unfortunately another season gone here in NE and will be wrapping up the boat this weekend.
 
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