Trim Tab Install

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Reel Basstard

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2017
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Scituate, MA
Hi All,

Purchased a 2009 2300 DV last year...love it. I ran the boat all last year without working trim tabs. I have Lenco 101's. I am handy but newbie to working on boats. I took my current trim tabs apart (took the top off) and found them corroded and seized. I trace the wire in the transom and then they go off and disappear out of site, not to mention there are 50+ wire ties along the way.

Does a new trim tab come with a new whip (cord)? How would you connect them? Splice the existing wire to the new unit in the transom which I rather not do? Is there something I am missing here? Appreciate advice.

Thanks
 
Yes, the new actuators will come with about a 5' wire lead on them. You can just cut the wire run that is going from the controls to the tabs down in the bilge area wherever you see fit to cut it. Then just butt splice the wires together. Make sure you use heat shrink butt splice connectors.
 
warthog5":3j00vx7p said:
They are supposed to have plugs on them..as you will see in the pix's.....But some people cut the plugs off and just use Butt connectors.

The test is disconnect the plug back there and apply 12V to the wires...One way it goes down...swap wires and ram goes Up.

I just repaired a unit.

http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php/tr ... ory_id=221


I cant see the plugs, the wires go out of site, I am assuming to the console. I have traced it to bad accuator... I have voltage all the way to the actuator. Both tab wires are pretty well secured to the transom. The only way I think I can do it, is splice them in with butt connectors.

What are the chances the wires go all the way back?
 
When I replaced mine on my 2120, I had the same issue. I could actually trace a good 5/6' of the port side wire as it runs through the main bilge area but I couldn't follow it to the connector. As Warts installation diagram shows, there should be connectors on the origional instal between the switch harness wires and prior to the tab actuator wires which from new would have had connectors. My replacement tab wire leads might have had connectors on them but I just can't remember. IF they did have connectors I cut them off as it was much easier to just butt splice them on the replacement instal. I thought I remembered them being just stripped wire ends? In any case, it was much easier to just feed the replacement wire ends through the transum and butt splicing them into the existing tabs wires in the bilge. If you choose to go the cut and butt splice route, make sure you leave a little extra wire so that you have an easier time redoing splicing if you ever have to do it again, JMO. It's a pretty easy job and actually was the very first project that I did on mine as both of my tabs had seized but they did have power. Make sure that you use a good Marine sealant on the screw holes and around where the tab wire passes through the hole in the transum. Good luck.
 
What are the chances the wires go all the way back?

The wires to the tabs do go all the way back...They have to. Look at the link I posted.

Now...In the one I worked on...I followed the Troubleshooting that Lenco has......Then I called them. They said it's probelly the control. This boat had the now old style in it with a separate Black box. The new one has the switches with a cup on the backside and there is acircuit board in that cup....IE: All in one. That fixed it.
 
Back
Top