filling in a t/h tranducer hole

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

WAJSKI

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
252
Reaction score
0
Location
medina/catawba island ohio
I am removing a B175 hw which leaves a 3 3/4" hole in the hull, I have the plug that was drilled out at installation. I want to know the best/easy way to repair. 1. should I pin and epoxy it in 2. take it to a boat fiberglass person
3. leave it in and sell with the boat ?????
 
Personally, I think I would leave it alone.
What do you gain by removing the thru-hull fitting?
A having said that, it's really a fairly straight forward repair for a skilled, experienced fiberglass man.
 
Yes f/g guy said 2-3 hrs plus material transducer is $1300 new just bought it this year. I am going to install on another boat along with 7608xsv and gt50.
 
Hmmmmmmmm?

That's kinda a tough one. Usually it just goes with the boat, but I have repaired a hull where the X-ducer was installed in the wrong spot.....same size as yours.

You start by grinding the inside of the hull. This gets grond down and back to create a taper toward the hole.

It's the nasty part due to being confined in a tight spot with fiberglass flying everywhere.

Then you get a small piece of sheet metal or alum just a little larger than the hole. You wax the sheet metal on one side with mold release wax several times. Then Duct tape it to the outside of the hull with wax toward inside.

Then start cutting circles of fiberglass tiy alternate between Biaxle and mat and change the orientation of the biaxle.
Some might use Roven Woven, but the biaxle is stronger and lays better.

Using a roller , roll the glass so no bubbles are present....Use laminating resign....[no wax]

The circles of fiberglass get larger and larger as you build up.

Remember this is all done from inside the hull. You may need to lay it up in 2 or 3 times between the resign kicking off, hence the laminating resign.

Once that's set....Now remove the tape and sheet metal. Now skim grind the outside... Wet out some mat pick it up and lay it on the outside. Now your under the boat and crap drips.
It's easier done by using a piece of cardboard to wet the mat out and get the glass to the hull. removing the cardboard. picking up wetted mat will stretch it and you don't want that.

Roll that in. Wipe the surface with fairing putty....Sand to a smooth surface. Then gellcoat , then polish.


So now you know what the job is. DO NOT GLUE THAT PLUG IN! It creates a weak line and can crack, leak or sink the boat from a unsuspecting person.
 
WAJSKI":o2n0hu92 said:
I am removing a B175 hw which leaves a 3 3/4" hole in the hull, I have the plug that was drilled out at installation. I want to know the best/easy way to repair. 1. should I pin and epoxy it in 2. take it to a boat fiberglass person
3. leave it in and sell with the boat ?????

Just plug the hole with an inexpensive basic transducer, even with a non-functioning one with cable cut off, this way you get to keep your new 1300 dollar unit & don't put yourself through all that FG work, which may or may not be as strong as the bronze insert.
 
Jersey Jim":29wzmu6p said:
WAJSKI":29wzmu6p said:
I am removing a B175 hw which leaves a 3 3/4" hole in the hull, I have the plug that was drilled out at installation. I want to know the best/easy way to repair. 1. should I pin and epoxy it in 2. take it to a boat fiberglass person
3. leave it in and sell with the boat ?????

Just plug the hole with an inexpensive basic transducer, even with a non-functioning one with cable cut off, this way you get to keep your new 1300 dollar unit & don't put yourself through all that FG work, which may or may not be as strong as the bronze insert.

There is a problem with that...... What do YOU consider inexpensive?

A B-164 is the most inexpensive 3 3/4in tilted element X-ducer that will fit that hole.

It cost's $700
 
Warthog thanks for the info now if I could just get the hull nut loose. I am going to let the marine f/g guy do it I don't want to be liable for repair, plus like you said it's a dirty job and I have never done f/g work.
 
Wow I can easy do the work but this defintly puts you in sort of a pickle. $1300 or f/g guy to fix it possible a $300 job? Just time and money. Either way I hope al goes well in the skim of things. What r you thinking of buying?
 
Kidfree I have a 27' Baha Cruiser cat with twin 4.3 Volvo duo props. I bought it new in 2002 traded it on my 2011 Parker and bought it back from 2nd owner. I know this sounds crazy but we missed the cat since we bought the Parker.I bought it back May 2016 and have been pluging away at it all summer going to put it in March 2017. We love our cat :)
 
This is a good chance tp talk about "Mix & Match" X-ducers.

What? What the heck is a "Mix & Match" X-ducer?



:D Most people have never heard of them...... It's a X-ducer that has a 5ft cable on it. Then there is a cable that plugs into that cable and has the proper end to hook to your Garmin, Lowarance, Furuno and God Forbid you spent money on Raymarine. :(

These have to be asked for specifically.....You will not find it in a catalog. I highly recommend BOE.


So......If you have one of these in say a Airmar B-164 and have Furuno electronics and now you want to sell the boat without electronic's..... And the new owner likes Garmin...... All he needs is the intermediate cable. Maybe $60?

You tape the new cable to the end of the old one up at the helm...... Pull it back thru. Unplug the Furuno intermediate cable and hook the Garmin intermediate cable up. Incidentally.....I like to add a sleeve of shrink tubing over the connection.
That connection gets pulled around and ends up inside a rigging tube a lot of times. Rigging tubes are inheartenly damp most of the time. Shrink tubing keeps moisture out.


With a "Mix & Match" You are now selling a asset with the boat if you have a 1000watt X-ducer in it.

So Next time check into this.
 
Back
Top