Leaking Fuel Tank

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Aclax8

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Well I received the call today I was praying that I would not get...starboard fuel tank is leaking, from the top. I have a 2002 2801 which has two 150 gallon tanks. Before I take the next step, which is most likely cutting the deck pulling the tank and either welding it or building a new one, I was hoping to hear from you guys on any advice or suggestions. I'm going to call Parker on Monday to see what they have to say before I do anything.

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
And it's leaking where exactly?

This all determines the coarse of action. You said the Top......Could it be at the sender and a gasket fix the problem?
 
It's about 10" up from the sender, the tank spilt.


warthog5":24xmoztk said:
And it's leaking where exactly?

This all determines the coarse of action. You said the Top......Could it be at the sender and a gasket fix the problem?
 
For a new tank Call RDS Manufacturing in Perry Florida 850 584 6898 and ask for Sam Roberts

Get the serial and model # from the label on the tank and they will make an exact duplicate from the original drawings, that is if they made the original ????
During the conversation if you have a captains license let him know , that will get you another 200.00 off . Also mention the Classic Parker Site
They had the best price and delivery of 5 places that I solicited.
155 gal. delivered $975.

Good Luck
Capt. Charles

Remember measure 3 times and cut once....Use a very small drill bit to locate the stringers and bulk heads as the Parker
schematic is not exact to your hull
 
Don't feel bad... that tank is 15 years old. It's time is past due.

All good advice so far. It will almost certainly make more sense to replace the tank rather than try to repair it.

Each tank will have an ID label. Between the two of them you should be able to figure out who made the tanks (the labels are not always as accessible as we might like, and over the years can become difficult to read). If the manufacturer is still in business then they are the logical choice. If not then one of the big tank builders (like Florida Marine Tanks, www.floridamarinetanks.com) can duplicate it from the old model number etc. Always a good idea to get the old tank out before you order the replacement. Send photos to your tank builder just in case. Measure twice, cut once!

The only big decision is whether to replace the other tank as well. As I said in the beginning, a 15 year old tank is living on borrowed time. Especially in salt water. I would do them both, especially if you plan to keep the boat.
 
Isn't it about time for Parker to design a tank access so you don't have to cut up the deck to remove a leaking tank?
 
Thanks man that is very helpful.

charlesretired":2ah3xv3r said:
For a new tank Call RDS Manufacturing in Perry Florida 850 584 6898 and ask for Sam Roberts

Get the serial and model # from the label on the tank and they will make an exact duplicate from the original drawings, that is if they made the original ????
During the conversation if you have a captains license let him know , that will get you another 200.00 off . Also mention the Classic Parker Site
They had the best price and delivery of 5 places that I solicited.
155 gal. delivered $975.

Good Luck
Capt. Charles

Remember measure 3 times and cut once....Use a very small drill bit to locate the stringers and bulk heads as the Parker
schematic is not exact to your hull
 
Yeah I'm thinking I need to do both...I do not want to have to cut the deck Twice.


1801Steve":3tuocj0h said:
Don't feel bad... that tank is 15 years old. It's time is past due.

All good advice so far. It will almost certainly make more sense to replace the tank rather than try to repair it.

Each tank will have an ID label. Between the two of them you should be able to figure out who made the tanks (the labels are not always as accessible as we might like, and over the years can become difficult to read). If the manufacturer is still in business then they are the logical choice. If not then one of the big tank builders (like Florida Marine Tanks, http://www.floridamarinetanks.com) can duplicate it from the old model number etc. Always a good idea to get the old tank out before you order the replacement. Send photos to your tank builder just in case. Measure twice, cut once!

The only big decision is whether to replace the other tank as well. As I said in the beginning, a 15 year old tank is living on borrowed time. Especially in salt water. I would do them both, especially if you plan to keep the boat.
 
I feel your pain, I just got my boat back a month ago after getting the tank professionally replaced. This was on a 2007 21se. I had 15-20 pinholes some as large as 1/16" on the underside of the tank. The correct process is to remove the old tank, bring the tank to your fabricator so they can make an exact replica, do not build the tank from plans!! The Parker tanks are foamed in, you can opt to re foam the tank however it will harbor moisture and could cause corrosion in a short amount of time if not done correctly. The factory rep said the foam around the tank is simply to hold the tank and make for an easy fast install it does not count towards to USCG requirement for flotation. Your install will be different because you have 2 tanks but here is what we did with my tank.

De rig the console and removed off the boat. Cut the deck and Removed the tank and brought it to the fabricator for rebuild, get it epoxy coated! . Removed all gas saturated foam and let the compartment dry out for 2 days. We added 4 additional braces and 1/4" closed cell rubber strips to the bottom and sides of the tank for support.
The tank compartments are sealed so if water or moisture gets in like it did on my boat it will have no where to go and eventually eat away at the Aluminum. to prevent this We built and glassed in a platform for the tank to sit on in lieu of the foam, in addition we made and glassed two drains at the bottom of the compartment for water to drain out if need be. we also used the rubber strip pieces between the tank braces and bulkheads and stringers for vibration reduction. The deck was put back on re glassed and gel coated and done. Total was 2 weeks between waiting on the tank and glass work. I know there will be opinions about how much work this was, this job is not easy on a Parker center console and the total hours to complete were about 50. This problem can happen to any Parker at any age so check all deck plate seals often, this could have been avoided with proper factory installation.

I have 15 trips on the boat the past month and everything seems very solid and no issues to speak of. I can email photos of the tear out if you would like.
 
That is good information and i will make sure to do your recommendations. I just called Parker hoping to talk to them directly and they said I have to call the local dealer. How did you get in touch with the factory rep? Do you mind telling me who you used to build the tank?

Thanks


Flukenewsty":1dqnyiin said:
I feel your pain, I just got my boat back a month ago after getting the tank professionally replaced. This was on a 2007 21se. I had 15-20 pinholes some as large as 1/16" on the underside of the tank. The correct process is to remove the old tank, bring the tank to your fabricator so they can make an exact replica, do not build the tank from plans!! The Parker tanks are foamed in, you can opt to re foam the tank however it will harbor moisture and could cause corrosion in a short amount of time if not done correctly. The factory rep said the foam around the tank is simply to hold the tank and make for an easy fast install it does not count towards to USCG requirement for flotation. Your install will be different because you have 2 tanks but here is what we did with my tank.

De rig the console and removed off the boat. Cut the deck and Removed the tank and brought it to the fabricator for rebuild, get it epoxy coated! . Removed all gas saturated foam and let the compartment dry out for 2 days. We added 4 additional braces and 1/4" closed cell rubber strips to the bottom and sides of the tank for support.
The tank compartments are sealed so if water or moisture gets in like it did on my boat it will have no where to go and eventually eat away at the Aluminum. to prevent this We built and glassed in a platform for the tank to sit on in lieu of the foam, in addition we made and glassed two drains at the bottom of the compartment for water to drain out if need be. we also used the rubber strip pieces between the tank braces and bulkheads and stringers for vibration reduction. The deck was put back on re glassed and gel coated and done. Total was 2 weeks between waiting on the tank and glass work. I know there will be opinions about how much work this was, this job is not easy on a Parker center console and the total hours to complete were about 50. This problem can happen to any Parker at any age so check all deck plate seals often, this could have been avoided with proper factory installation.

I have 15 trips on the boat the past month and everything seems very solid and no issues to speak of. I can email photos of the tear out if you would like.
 
The Parker tanks are foamed in, you can opt to re foam the tank however it will harbor moisture and could cause corrosion in a short amount of time if not done correctly.

That's why we still use 4lb density foam.....But Coal Tar coat the bare alum before it's installed. Also fiberglass over the foam that is cut flush with the top of the tank.

No moisture or water will sit up aginst the tank then.


These are things learned over the years. Also the tanks get a front and rear vent. That Y's into one and goes to the normal vent spot.

Ever had a 100gal tank that you had to fill real slow or it would burp back on you? Thats the fix.

I have a few more custom things I have done to tanks. Step up to 3/16 material antthing over 60gal. Custom billit mount for sending units.....Instead of screw holes streight into the tank.
 
Per Warthog. Custom billit mount for sending units.....Instead of screw holes streight into the tank.[/quote]

RDS does this automatically and provides a new float installed (no screws) They will also coat the exterior if you request it for an additional fee
 
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