2015 2120 SC Rub Rail

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Bob D

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Like many others and also disappointed I have water leaks in the V-Berth from the rub rail. I see the water entering through the screws. I see the stainless steel trip in the middle of the black rubber has stainless steel screws. I assume you need to remove the stainless steel strip first? Once the stainless steel strip is removed is the black rubber screwed to the hull? Do I remove the rubber and then caulk? Then reinstall the rubber? I know it needs to be caulked under it but looking for a step by step if possible. Any advice?
 
Bob D":2ph9ue2s said:
Like many others and also disappointed I have water leaks in the V-Berth from the rub rail. I see the water entering through the screws. I see the stainless steel trip in the middle of the black rubber has stainless steel screws. I assume you need to remove the stainless steel strip first? Once the stainless steel strip is removed is the black rubber screwed to the hull? Do I remove the rubber and then caulk? Then reinstall the rubber? I know it needs to be caulked under it but looking for a step by step if possible. Any advice?
My boat is older (2000) so mine doesn't have the stainless strip in the rub rail. Mine has a round rubber insert that goes inside that covers the screws. Yours should be the same basic principle,just stainless instead of rubber. Last spring I resealed mine and it worked well. You need to remove the screws holding the rub rail to the boat and remove the rub rail. Once the rub rail is removed you will see other screws holding the cap to the hull. These screws can be sources of leaks as well. Once the rub rail is removed you need to clean and prep the cap to hull joint as well as possible and wipe down with acetone or simillar solvent to clean it for good adhesion of the new caulk of your choice. (I used 3m 4000 UV but there are other good choices as well) You would then reseal the cap to hull joint with a nice bead of caulk and also put a dab of caulk over each and every screw head that holds the cap to the hull, as well as putting a dab in each hole that the screws go into that hold the rub rail on so that when you put the screws back in the rub rail they will be sealed. A couple of tips: Before removing the rub rail take pieces of masking tape and tape vertically over the rub rail and down on the side of the hull every few feet apart to mark the exact location of the rub rail as opposed to the hull. Before removing the rub rail cut the pieces of tape with a razor blade or sharp knife so that some of the tape remains on the rub rail and some remains on the hull. This will help with alignment when you put the rub rail back on. This is done because once the rub rail is off the boat it can sometimes shrink a little while unsupported and can give you a hard time getting it right when you put it back on. I find that it also helps if you do one side at the time so that it doesn't take as long and the rubber doesn't have as much time to draw up. This is the right way to do the job. Some folks just seal around the edge of the rub rail without removing it but that is a band-aid that will usually only temporarily mask the problem Hope this helps and good luck!
 
Thanks Wet Willie. That was a good explanation. I agree caulking the rub rail on the exterior is not going to hold up in salt water life. Right now I actually have it in the dealer and Parker told me they will cover it which I am shocked but now the dealer tells me that the is an issue with them and Parker on the repair. I would assume its Parker telling them either to not do it the correct way or Parker telling them they will give them 2 hours of labor and the dealer told me its a 4 hour job so I assume it probably is something like that. I am calling the dealer today to find out what the issue is. If they are not going to do it right don't even do it and I will do it myself. Its in the dealer now because my two windows on the side leaked since day one through the glass and gasket/seal not the frame. So of course their fix was to caulk the outside of the glass which I told them would last a year at best and put it in writing and I was right so Parker agreed to replace both windows assemblies. When I mean they leaked water actually pouring in both windows. I found out the window manufacture at that time did not seal the glass correct in a few runs of windows.

Bob
 
Wet Willie,

Once question. I see where rub rails are in channels. The rubber part is screwed to the fiberglass correct? So they just screw a screw through the rubber into the fiberglass or is there something like stainless on top of the rubber so the screw just don't go trough the rubber. I know if you put a screw in rubber it would just go through the rubber.

If anyone has an pictures that would be great. I am curious how they actually attach the rubber to the fiberglass.

Bob
 
On my boat the screws just go through the rubber, but that isn't your everyday soft rubber. It's very hard and durable. The screws will hold just fine. You'll see when you pull it off. It's really tough stuff! Trust me, it's very self explanatory once you start removing it. Easy job, just time consuming.
 
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