Solar Panels

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Antidote

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Location
Bluffton, SC
Is anyone using solar panels to power the boat when not in use? I would like to keep my fridge running 24/7. I currently have 2 start batteries and 1 house battery setup. The house battery lasts about 5 days before the fridge knocks it down. The fridge I have draws an average of 265 watts/24hours according to the manufacturer.

I have a 30 watt/hour panel (actually two 15 watt panels in parallel) which I'm going to connect to the house battery through a battery tender. The tender kicks in @ 13v and off @ 14.2v. I, conservatively, figured 9 hours of sunlight/day which equals 270 watts. Forgiving any losses this should run the fridge continuously. If my numbers are correct, it should be enough to charge the battery and run the fridge during sunlight hours and let the fridge run off the battery at night.

Is my thinking correct?
 
I have 2 50 watt Siemens panel installed by first owner to charge house bank of 6 to 8 golf cart batteries. He anchored out a lot and had a big refrig and ac inverter
Currently the panels are disconnected. I have been tracing each wire and a lot of auto grade wire was used and now removed. Now the house bank is 2 2gc 6 volt batteries and mounted under sink. Our 2320 EC is setup like a 2530. This bank has a Noco charger when at lift got charging
Bank runs the helm, windlass, etc. Everything is bring stripped out. I decided to keep current switch panel and install new switches. Windlass will be rewired and have new thicker wires and plenty of power. When helm is done then look at panels which still work and look ugly on top. Its wiring was done poorly with no switch and controller is dated and no fuse protection. Each item easily corrected . Lots of newer panels with higher output and thinner and can be installed in various locations like cockpit awning. I have an inverter but not pure sine wave and not ignition protected. . Panels and inverter updates will be assessed later. I need a better inverterlocation that is better protected and away from house bank. I am not replacing the built in refrigerator and will buy a portable refrig and freezer. Another option is use a couple of high performance portable coolers. One for frozen items and other for cold items. These cost less today. When solar was working, there was no battery isolator to prevent total battery discharge just voltage check
A Blue Seas cable clam was not on wire through roof. Another sore point.
Again I dont plan to address these items this year. Just removing junk wiring and checking all roof top mounting points are weather tight. You need to read about charge controller and buy one that doesnt overcharge batteries

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Thanks for the reply Brent. I have decided to dive into solar. I am going with two Renology 100 watt rigid panels and a Victron 100/15 controller which I'm going to wire with a fuse to the #1 bus at the helm. The advantage of wiring straight to the bus is a cleaner install utilizing the 6 gauge wires already run from the house battery to the bus bars to charge the battery from the bus bars. This will also charge the Port start battery through the ACR which is already in place. The disadvantage is the battery switch must remain on to the charge the batteries. I don't think it's a big disadvantage because it has to be left on the run the fridge in the first place.

Having the fuse between the panels and the controller allows me to disconnect the panels from the controller. I will have quick disconnects from the controller to the bus bars which will allow me to isolate the controller from any power source. Finally, using the battery switch I can isolate the batteries also.

How does this sound?
 
Yes . Sounds great . You need to easy identify switches and fuses. Label items. My re do is not done and I plan to label items and draw schematic and keep it helm and maybe the fuse for the next owner or anyone working on the work. Whoever did the solar and other add on electrical work was only intetested in making it functional but failed on safety like everything - wrong wire, wrong size, no fuses, no neg bus bars, etc., no battery boxes and full tray just tray bottoms, wrong size battery lugs. We stripped out everything and complete re do.

My solar panels need rewire between them and wire through roof to helm battery bank. Any pics of your setup? I would appreciate it. Mine is not connected bc of wiring, wire size, no switch or fuse.

I was looking at Genasun MPPT controller bc u us simple.

Since my solar disconnected, I am still undecided on keeping it, re do it and full replacement. I know my 110v inverter is a decent but modified sine wave unit but a full sine wave inverter would be better. I installed battery charger on each bank and charge at the lift or dock
Your project using all new items looks great


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I will post pics. Right now all I have is the confirmations from ordering the parts. LOL
 
Ok. So this is what I have gathered from some folks on another site and watching some You Tube. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Series connected panels are best when there is an unobstructed view of the sun (higher voltage gives better efficiency).

Parallel connected panels are better when there are shadows casted on the panels (allows for each panel to give its best amperage even with shading).

For parallel connected panels, diodes should be used to prevent heating one panel from the output of the other if the voltage drops on one of the panels.

MPPT controller is best because it allows for either parallel or series connections to the panels.

Fuses are good.

Ridge panels are best, especially if they are mounted above the surface to provide air circulation.

The controller should be connected to the battery to protect navionics and other equipment from voltage spikes. It should also be connected as close as practical to the battery to prevent voltage drop.

10 Ga wire or bigger from the panels to the controller and controller to the battery is good.
 
I agree. I need to see some setups showing wiring on top and going into wheel house.
I would like to see is best wiring method that is water proof and no wires floppy around loose. Are the wires between panels just exterior grade marine wire like my setup of something better

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The panels came today. They are 10 ga "Solar Rated" aluminum wires. I was able to get a water proof cable run that I will mount on the roof. There will be only two wires penetrating the roof. I plan on taking them down the starboard wire run to the gunnel and back to the battery trays. I'm going to mount the controller in the bilge close to the batteries.
 
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Here it is all installed and running my fridge and stereo.


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Here is the “after” picture. I have a cover on both sides of the cabin for wire runs. They also house speakers.


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They are an easy change over. The panels came with them installed. The connectors on the roof are made to connect the panels in parallel. I was able to order the cables running from the connectors in 20’ lengths. Unfortunately, I needed about 30’. I crimped the connections at the controller for the fuses with connectors I was able to buy. Everything except the controller is “Renology” brand. Simple and clean. I can give you a parts list if you are interested. I ordered everything from Amazon.


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Do you plan to reinstall them or are you calling it quits on the solar all together?

I have to say my set up has worked well for my application so far even with 3 full days of rain.
 
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