Jack plate on Parker 2300SE? & closing transom on same b

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mangroveglenn

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Hi folks. Anyone have any insights as to whether it is OK to install a jack plate on a Parker 2300 SE. The manufacturer says that it may take reinforcement of the transom. Any experience out there?

Ideally, I would close off the transom and install a portabracket. Any experience in closing off a transom and/or installing a portabracket on the 2300SE?

Lastly, what is the ideal prop for a 2300 with a Yamaha 4 stroke 200hp?

Many thanks!

Glenn
 
I am mounting a 6 inch setback hydraulic jackplate on my Parker 18 with a Suzuki DF 140. The only modification or reinforcement that I am doing is to add a transom plate similar to the one that Parker uses with it's name on it but mine is a little thicker and designed in Florida and has my name on it with Custom Rigged emblazened on it as well. The jackplate is from TH Marine and is the best in the industry and I have mounted many of them in the past and never had any transom issue whatsoever.

I can also get the TH Marine jackplates at wholesale cost for you if you are interested as I used to order from them years ago when I was rigging boats and I am still on their list of distributors.
 
I have a jackplate and was thinking about installing it. Going to run a Mercury 90 2 stroke for now. I know it's underpowered, but I will look for a 115. Mine had a 115 Johnson on it before. The bottom hole are not spaced as wide as a Merc. I thought they were standard nowadays. What are your thoughts?
 
mangroveglenn":2fujdkci said:
Hi folks. Anyone have any insights as to whether it is OK to install a jack plate on a Parker 2300 SE. The manufacturer says that it may take reinforcement of the transom. Any experience out there?

Ideally, I would close off the transom and install a portabracket. Any experience in closing off a transom and/or installing a portabracket on the 2300SE?

Lastly, what is the ideal prop for a 2300 with a Yamaha 4 stroke 200hp?

Many thanks!

Glenn
I realize this is an old thread but wanted to bring it up to see if anyone had anything new to add. I have a 2300 SE and looking to add a jack plate, Parker said it would void the warranty but if I did go through with it they suggested "any type of reinforcing plate that would help spread the forces beyond the surface area that is being contacted by the jack plate..." Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
I purchased a 2320 off Classic Parker a few years ago. The boat had a jack plate on it and my intention was to take it off once I got the boat. Three years later it's still on it and I would never think of removing it. I know it is not typical and many on here may disagree (as did I when purchasing it) but after owning it, using it, and seeing it in action, it works like a champ. The Parker transom is more than strong enough for it.

Another bonus for me is that my boat has a notched transom. Many 2320 owners (w/notched transom) have had problem tilting up their motor fully after building a splash well cover. Because of the Jack plate mine has no issues being fully tilted.

Lastly, do realize my boat boat is 20 years old. If I had a boat still in warranty I may reconsider doing anything to void it, however it will work, and well. Here is a picture.
 

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Looks like your transom may be a little thicker than mine. I wonder if I should have mine built up to be thicker, that would be less costly then closing it in and adding a porta bracket or does it even need that?
 

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I can measure the thickness and let you know but I would guess its about 2.5". I'm not at my boat right now but here is a picture looking down on it. I'll try to get you thickness tonight.

Excuse the mess and the arrows, this is an older picture of when I was re-doing the rigging.
 

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Thanks MadGar but no rush on it, I won't be able to get back to my boat till Thanksgiving to compare the thickness
 
A Porta Bracket and a TH Marine or Bob's Jack Plate are a LOT different.

A Porta Bracket moves the motor farther aft......As much as about 24in like a alum bracket aka Armstrong bracket.

BUT! The Porta Bracket provides No flotation to compensate for the 600lbs moved aft.

This "Can" have a bad effect on your scuppers and the stagnate attitude of the boat sitting in the water. The 23 is also a 8 1/2ft beam.....Which provides less flotation than a 25ftr with a 9 1/2ft beam.

They are used a lot in the Tampa area.....A lot of those boats have a wide beam on them for extra flotation.


Why not just close it in and hang a Armstrong on it with a 30in wide tub?
 
JKM, my transom thickness was 2-13/16" (just say 2-7/8"). I may be wrong but I would think yours is the same. I remember following an individual on another website as he was adding an Armstrong Bracket to an old 25' CC Parker. The transom was the same thickness as mine but has a little lip on top like yours, probably the same.

BTW, I hope one day to do what Warthog just said and add a full bracket. Your transom will handle it. Anyway, good luck.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I think I'm going to keep the notch even though I do like the Armstrong brackets better than the porta brackets. Besides closing off the transom $$$$ what else can be done to add the needed strength for a jack plate.
 
jkm412":2yzt9h95 said:
Besides closing off the transom $$$$ what else can be done to add the needed strength for a jack plate.

If you want to spread the load between the jack plate and the transom, I would consider stainless backing plates on both sides of the transom.

When I put the outriggers on my boat, and later when I remounted my rocket launchers, I had a local machine shop cut, drill, and polish some plate stainless for backing plates. Your backing plates would be a larger footprint, but the concept is the same.
 

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So replace the small plate that is there now with a larger plate to cover more area on the inside and outside of the transom?
 
jkm412":i1okol3q said:
So replace the small plate that is there now with a larger plate to cover more area on the inside and outside of the transom?

Essentially... yes.
The idea is to spread the load over a much larger area.
 
Actually I have something better than the stainless backing plates.

4in alum U channel....... That is what I use when installing a bracket like a Armstrong as a backing plate.

Before you install it. Drill 3/16 holes on the flanges every 6in. Round the sharp 90deg cuts on the ends of the material.

The 3/16 holes are for tye wraps to go thru......This is a place so you can make things neat in your bilge area. If you need them they are there.....If you don't.....so what. They are are still there for the future.
 
Great idea warthog5, I may end up have a plate cut to cover as much area as possible on the top and go with the u channel below or the u channel above and below
 
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