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Hello, we have a new Suzuki engine on our 2002 Parker 2300 DVCC and have just finished our annual trek to Cudjoe Key for a week. Just prior to going, the motor underwent the 20 hour service (valve lash check and oil change?). Where we stay in the bay has a shoreline of water dredged to a...

Sorry for the delayed response... Note I stated 'brief'. That is more a validation of proper prop pitch. The break-in procedure was followed more or less to the letter. Nick has powered many a boat. Buzzing up for a few seconds will not have any lasting harm.

A little late to the party but yesterday we did initial Sea Trials on our same boat (2003 2300 CCDV). We had a 2002 225 Yamaha 4 stroke (likely 205HP). This new engine is a 2023 DF300AP - 300 PS (295 HP). We had seen others on this forum with the same prop so we used it as well - 3 x 16 x...

Thanks RalphCFP. To anyone else - . I understand the Suzuki props are silly expensive and they have the classic hub design. I'm leaning on Powertech since I like their simple hard plastic/polymer insert. You can replace the insert at sea, it's only $20 (have one currently). Any input?

You infer that you have 3 bladed props when you say 'switching to 4 blade'. There are alot of variables involved, however when I switched from a 3 bladed Yamaha Saltwater Series II 3 blade to a PowerTech ELE series 4 blade, I lost mileage. This is what I was expecting because all things the...

I have a Powertech 4 blade, 15" & 15 pitch, Powertect PN ELE4R15PMS275 (FLO-TORQ II hub design). It's on my 23 DVCC (2002) with a 225 HP 4 stroke Yamaha. Big difference getting on a plane over the 3 bladed Yamaha. Let me know if you're interested and we can privately chat. Not sure what boat...

Also interested in the same information. I'm about to repower mine. I have a 2003 2300DVCC with the 4 stroke 225 Yamaha (less than 250 hours - believe it or not). If anyone who has this boat with a 300 Suzuki, I'd be interested in your motor particulars - 25"? What are your prop particulars...

Picking the boat up tomorrow. The task was around 85 man hours to replace the tank. I had other things done as well outside that scope. The deck looks great - you can't tell anything was done. GoodChance - thanks for the tip! The space in front of the console below the deck is cavernous...

Note the penetrations coming up through the deck - had this been done originally - I would not be here. Regarding the console - Parker provides the bottom half as a solid piece. They then cut their wiring penetration square hole through it and the deck all at once. The console was not sealed...

Current progress photos attached. The new tank is in and foamed, with the damaged Yamaha cables replaced (and the routed through the port side opening). The Garmin fuel meter cables from when I installed are also routed over there now as well. I'll be back in town in about 10 days...

Aside from the patient being dead ;) , it was a metal tank with signs of external corrosion in several places. Out of curiosity, why do you ask?

YOWZA - just got the tank price - $2182 and change. Fortunately they like cash and will discount some. BTW - that includes coal tar epoxy.

GoodChance, thinking about where the anchor rope/chain drain - does the forward anchor compartment drain down into that area and get it wet? Just curious. Thanks

Thanks, GoodChance - NICE TIP - hmmm... maybe I need a new deck plate forward! Which model boat do you have? Mine is a 23' CC deep Vee. In front of my console seat is the V shaped opening flanked on either side by the bow storage boxes. In your photo I see a piece of wood and some vertical...

Markman03 - if you're talking to me, no pressure check needed. I did not see it (already at the tank shop) but definitely areas of corrosion/perforation. Unfortunately the way Parker built mine, there is a clamshell console (lower shell and upper shell). They simply cut a square hole in the...

the one that says 23DVCC... is what Parker sent me. I've marked it up - 'sketch for Parker.pdf' shows a 2nd sheet with details per my emails and telecoms with the Parker engineer. Sorry - I thought I'd attached that before. Mine is a 2002 hull, sold in 2003. The stringers are simply 3/4"...

Most certainly sure. The top of the tank was totally dry (other than the collection of normal grunge mentioned above), with no signs of gas drainage trails across the dirt. That was the first series of inspections I performed. When sitting in the water with only about 2/3rds full (no boat...

Thought I'd give an update. I did find a very reputable shop locally - Target Boats (and yes they will make you a boat). They've done very many replacements. The waiting list finally cleared and they took my boat in last week. The estimate (w/o tearing into it) is between $7K and $8K (flat...

After speaking with Parker on the phone, they're doing a good job assisting me. I have the stringer drawing (see attached). I've now asked for details regarding the stringer cross-section and forward bulkhead cross-section. Preliminary assessment is that the T-top comes off first. This is...

Received the emailed drawing from RDS yesterday as stated above. Have already requested a quote for a replacement with 3/16" thickness aluminum (their current standard). The original was 1/8" thick. Incidentally, anyone reading this - you should take a good photo of your tank ID tag (should be...