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Came out super clean. Nylon shoulder washers on all the edges. Now to attach the new window support. Taylor Made doesn’t manufacture mine anymore, their customer service is pretty dumb, but I found one made by them that will work.

There is likely a nylon tube / washer combo out there that will accomplish coverage protection. Thank you for your help. Probably best to find someone here in SoCal that can blast and powder coat this thing and make it right.

Guessing that this is aluminum but anyway wanted to do a quick project before summer gets here. This paint is bubbling up pretty much everywhere on the door surround so I figure I’m taking it off, removing the doors, cleaning down to bare metal and painting. Any suggestions on how to do this best?

For the 2520, the bow eye is under the step out on the exterior, on the 2310 the bow eye is above that step out. The little shelf I made it probably close to a foot above that. I'll share pics when I'm done but it's looking good so far.

Ok so I'm finally starting this project and I took my chain and rode out of there, cleaned it out a lot, and this is what I saw. Basically at the bow eye there is a support and thru the anchor locker hatch there is another nice support too. I was just thinking of building my shelf right on top...

I upgraded a few years ago, but my 1801 had a t-top with a 115 hp. Aftermarket leaning post. A t-top would not get in the way of anything other than casting, and that was never really an issue, plenty of room bow and stern. The 115 was plenty of power. You would have a hard time getting on plane...

I got a new one about 4 years ago from Parker in the old gelcoat. I remember being told it was the last, or close to the last one they'd ever be making.

No permatrim on my 2310. Runs perfect. Oversized tabs help with the fine tuning...

For that long haul did you have anything supporting that outboard?

What gaskets did you use? Looking forward to fixing my water in the bilge issues.

How would you access the back of your bow eye for trailering? On my last parker I had an issue with that and had to replace it. I suppose before you glassed everything in you made yours bulletproof and will just add that access hatch if needed...

Other than having a clamshell vent on the side of your bow, I really like this solution. I've considered maybe a drum windlass and just sealing the entire anchor locker off as well. Not very practical, and expensive, but I'd love to keep water out of the bilge. Maybe this is the solution...

Interested as well.

What fan would you use for this? Picture?

Thanks! Sitting on R7 isthmus right now. Somewhat dehydrated and nowhere near ready to go back to work tomorrow.

I started the project early March, and finished 2 weeks ago, so around 3 months. If I'd had regular help, no distracting kids, no full time job and perfect weather it would have gone faster. Super fun time.

Your thorough explanations really helped on the final steps. Saved me a lot of time. Thanks!

Thanks Andy. I appreciate the compliment, the whole project was exhausting and very educational.

I have done many projects on my boat over the years, but this one was pretty gnarly, came out great and might inspire some other insane person to do the same or similar thing. Basically my roof had some water damage from the previous owner moving the antennae around, and from putting screws that...

@warthog5 et al, for a large fiberglass repair job, before applying non skid, I've read that a layer of gelcoat first helps smooth out the entire surface and make the application of non skid much easier. Any helpful thoughts? Waxed gelcoat? I'm using rust oleum topside paint and primer.