‘98 2310 battery size upgrade

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izzy003

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I have a ‘98 2310 with open transom and batteries in the transom. I currently have 2 group 24 batteries and I would like to upgrade to 2 group 27. There are a few inches of extra space as is, but it looks cramped down there.

Anyone able to fit 2 group 27 batteries in their open transom parker 2310 or 2320?

It looks like I could fit 1 27 and 1 24, with the 27 powering the electronics/bait tank etc and the 24 as a starter. Any downsides to this? Boat is setup with charger and Blue Sea Systems on/off switch and battery isolator setup.

Thanks for any help.
 
It looks like I could fit 1 27 and 1 24, with the 27 powering the electronics/bait tank etc and the 24 as a starter. Any downsides to this? Boat is setup with charger and Blue Sea Systems on/off switch and battery isolator setup.

A GP24 Starting and a Gp27 Deep Cycle and a upgrade to a BEP Cluster switch will give you what you want.


No matter what name master switch. [Perko, Blue Seas, whatever?]

If it is a OFF, 1, 2, All switch....we just call'em Perko for short....I have a shelf full and have thrown a LOT away.


You do Not have a dedicated House battery with that setup.

I have just installed my 41st BEP Cluster switch.


Read this.

You start your day by turning the Start switch and the House switch to ON.
At the end of the day you turn them both OFF.

It doesn't get any simpler than that. You don't have to remember to turn from Batt 1 when going out and switch to Batt 2 on the way back in. Just something else that you have to remember.

OK so what goes on with it is done all automatically thru the VSR [Voltage Sensitive Relay]

The Relay is in a closed position. As soon as you hit the key to crank the motor the relay opens, due to sensing a large surge of current.

Ok the motor is cranked and running now. The relay is still open. The Alt is charging the Start battery until it reaches a set voltage and charge.

Then the relay closes and is back charging Both the Start & House Battery.

Now another feature that happened when you hit the key is your electronics were ON and wired from the House battery. This will stop any spiking of the Electronics. They don't like to be spiked!

OK...Now your out sitting on the beach. The motor is OFF, but you have the Radio playing for hours. The Relay senses the drop and opens the relay again. The radio is still playing, but the relay just disconnected the Start battery out of the circuit so that it stays at Full charge to start the motor.

When you get ready to leave the beach and crank the motor the alt will charge the Start battery first and when it's back up, the relay will close and charge the House battery.

There is one more switch on the Cluster. It is the Combine switch. Think of that as Jumper Cables without having to dig them out and hook them up. This switch would normally be in the OFF position, until you need a boost on the start battery. Then turn it to ON. After the motor is running turn it back OFF.

Everything is all Automatic. No thinking about it. Your batteries will have a much better charge in them.

The unit pictured above is just slightly larger than a Perko switch. So it doesn't take up much room and takes a LOT less room than the Blue Seas version. It looks cleaner too, due to the cables that are needed on the Blue Seas version.
 
Thanks for the reply. The switch that I have is on/off and it goes through an automatic charging relay with start isolation.

Going to see if a group 27 and 24 will fit.
 

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izzy003":10c9cwvd said:
Thanks for the reply. The switch that I have is on/off and it goes through an automatic charging relay with start isolation.

Going to see if a group 27 and 24 will fit.

I have the same set up except with three batteries (twin engine). Two start and a house with the ACR switch and ACR relay for the port start and house. The stbd battery on the stock 1, 2, both and off switch. I can Isolate each and connect all. I also have solar panels that charge the house through a solar controller and then top off the port start through the ACR. It's a clean install because the battery switches are the same manufacturer as the OEM. The solar controller and the ACR are mounted under the deck by the batteries.

Warthog and I have discussed this before. His works for him. Mine works for me. You have options.
 
The Blue Seas add a Battery has no way to Boost the Start battery, should there be a problem with that battery.

I have had a problem with loosing the House battery..[Battery dying] A quick turn of the Combine switch saved the day. [A switch normally left in the OFF position]

It was later discovered that the ground connection for the relay was lost....But you can't diagnose that at sea......Normally.
 
warthog5":1gel46nl said:
The Blue Seas add a Battery has no way to Boost the Start battery, should there be a problem with that battery.

I have had a problem with loosing the House battery..[Battery dying] A quick turn of the Combine switch saved the day. [A switch normally left in the OFF position]

It was later discovered that the ground connection for the relay was lost....But you can't diagnose that at sea......Normally.

Incorrect. The blue seas add a battery can indeed combine the battery banks in an emergency situation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
warthog5":pr2aqlol said:
The Blue Seas add a Battery has no way to Boost the Start battery, should there be a problem with that battery.

I have had a problem with loosing the House battery..[Battery dying] A quick turn of the Combine switch saved the day. [A switch normally left in the OFF position]

It was later discovered that the ground connection for the relay was lost....But you can't diagnose that at sea......Normally.

I am able to start either engine from any one of the three batteries by selecting “combine” on the port ACR switch and “both” on the stbd 1, 2, both, off switch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have a twin engine set up. The original was two (Port and Stbd) 1, 2, both and off switches. I replaced the Port switch with the ACR off, on, combine switch. It is the same size as the OEM so it was a swap and looks original on the panel. I wired the house battery to take all of the house load and connected the port start and the house battery together with the ACR. This took running 2 gauge wire from the house battery to the panel. I later put solar panels on the boat and wired them to the house battery through a solar controller. Now with the engines running the engines charge their respective start battery and when full the Port charges the house through the ACR. With the engines off, the solar panels charge the house battery and when it is full they charge the Port start through the ACR. To be clear, the ACR works in both directions. I can combine the start batteries by switching the Stbd switch to "both." I can combine the house and port battery by switching the ACR switch to "combine." I can also connect all three by doing both. If the Port start battery has failed I can remove the ground wire from that battery to take it out of the circuit and start off either the house or Stdb start depending on the switch selection. If the house battery fails I can take the ground off of it taking it out of the circuit and run the house of the Port start battery. If the Stbd battery fails (you guessed it) take the ground off of it switch to "both" and run off the Port start.

You can do a similar set up on a single (even without the solar panels) if it has two charging circuits (Yamaha). Just consider one circuit Port and the other Stdb.
 
I finally was able to go through everything and replace the batteries, all wiring and all connections. That battery compartment leaks on my boat and really corroded everything in there. To help keep it dry I drilled two 1/2” holes in the compartment lip where water collects and ran tubing down to the bilge area. Also added D shape tubing to seal the bin insert better. Also had to mount the battery charger lower as the insert bin was hitting it and not making a tight seal against the compartment lip.

I upgraded the batteries to Northstar AGM and was able to fit a 31 and a 24, turning the 24 sideways was only way to upgrade from the 24s that were in there. Had to get low profile battery tray to fit the 24 like that....barely fits. So now I have the isolated 24 as a starter and a 31 for all the accessories (bait tank, radar, sonar, etc).

Still have to organize the wiring a bit, but happy how it turned out.


 

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THX for this great info - I've just ordered a BEP Cluster switch for my dual battery single inboard engine setup. I wouldn't have known about this product without your writeup (Feb 3rd) ~
 
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