1801 trim tabs help!

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Just bought new to me 2003 1801 with no trim tabs. I want to get it right so think that the experiences here will be of great value. Hydraulic or electric? Size? Hear a lot about 18” wide but that seems big? Anyone with advice on what to do or even what not to do?
 
i just picked up an '06 1801 and put tabs on. I looked around on alot of older posts and ultimately installed Bennett 9x12 edge mount bolts (electric) since they require the least amount of vertical room for the actuator. They say it only needs like 6.5" of vertical room but that wasn't accurate as I had to put a small notch in the swim platform.

The install was straightforward and easy, wiring couldn't be simpler. Bennett has youtube videos that show you the whole install on the bolt tabs. The hardest part is the anxiety of drilling 26 holes in your transom...5200 don't fail me now!

I didn't run the boat much before I put tabs on, but they definitely help to change the manners running much smoother with no bounce into head chop and also can get up on plane alot faster so i'm happy i put them on.

I ended up finding a set on overstock.com and also found a 15% off coupon, which basically worked out to getting the rocker switch for free. Including the 5200 i think the whole set up was +/- $450 which is pretty good

Good luck!
 
Do these help alot or permatrim fin? I am looking at a Parker 1801 with 115 yami and it is a dog out of the hole. Is that just the norm? Also if you cut the wheel and do a sharp turn it cavitates.
 
I have an 18' with a 90 merc 4s and it jumps the hole with normal load, 2-3 people. Could always be better, (could have a 150hp and it could be better...) but not at all 'a dog'.

Getting ready to install Bennett 18x9 tabs so I'll circle back afterwards. Hydraulic. They're in the garage awaiting bottom paint.
 
I have an 1801, and it came with a 115 Yamaha four stroke. It was a little doggie out of the hole with a few people on it. What pitch prop are you running? I have re-powered with a Suzuki 140 with a 19 pitch prop definitely made a big difference.
 
Do these help alot or permatrim fin? I am looking at a Parker 1801 with 115 yami and it is a dog out of the hole. Is that just the norm? Also if you cut the wheel and do a sharp turn it cavitates.
I have a 2016 1801 with same year F115 Yamaha, owned since new, factory (black stainless) prop (don't have the size handy). From the factory, motor would ventilate (aka cavitate) too easily, and was a tad slower than expected to get on plane, even given considering the conservative hrseper. Then I noticed the motor was mounted quite high (anti-ventilation plate was about an inch ABOVE the hull's keel, rather than an inch or so below as per Yam manual). The dealer lowered the motor one mounting hole (about 3/4", so now there's only one open hole above the top bolt) and it helped tremendously - ventilation very infrequent, and the motor's trim range is where you'd expect - at proper running angle, you still have at least a few bars (on LCD guage) of downward trim range available, eg to "put the bow down". Even though the ventilation plate is still higher than Yam manual suggests. Still, in seas >2', I have a hard time finding a good running angle that will both keep the boat on slow plane, yet keep passengers from getting soaked. I can use motor trim to put bow down, but then she throws a good deal of bow spray that a crosswind will blow back into the passengers. I do NOT have trim tabs (which many have suggested will help Parker's modified-vee hulls - eg the 1801 and the SE series), but not sure it would as I can already get the bow down using motor trim - the root cause seems just not enough deadrise midships, the hull's primary running surface at slow plane. Though perhaps lowering motor to the final hole would help improve some other unforseen dynamic going on - open to suggestions.

I would check your mounting height, and also confirm your motor is making full power (ie for holeshot concern) - eg any change recently, as in after winter storage / ethanol clog injectors.
 
I have a 2016 1801 with same year F115 Yamaha, owned since new, factory (black stainless) prop (don't have the size handy). From the factory, motor would ventilate (aka cavitate) too easily, and was a tad slower than expected to get on plane, even given considering the conservative hrseper. Then I noticed the motor was mounted quite high (anti-ventilation plate was about an inch ABOVE the hull's keel, rather than an inch or so below as per Yam manual). The dealer lowered the motor one mounting hole (about 3/4", so now there's only one open hole above the top bolt) and it helped tremendously - ventilation very infrequent, and the motor's trim range is where you'd expect - at proper running angle, you still have at least a few bars (on LCD guage) of downward trim range available, eg to "put the bow down". Even though the ventilation plate is still higher than Yam manual suggests. Still, in seas >2', I have a hard time finding a good running angle that will both keep the boat on slow plane, yet keep passengers from getting soaked. I can use motor trim to put bow down, but then she throws a good deal of bow spray that a crosswind will blow back into the passengers. I do NOT have trim tabs (which many have suggested will help Parker's modified-vee hulls - eg the 1801 and the SE series), but not sure it would as I can already get the bow down using motor trim - the root cause seems just not enough deadrise midships, the hull's primary running surface at slow plane. Though perhaps lowering motor to the final hole would help improve some other unforseen dynamic going on - open to suggestions.

I would check your mounting height, and also confirm your motor is making full power (ie for holeshot concern) - eg any change recently, as in after winter storage / ethanol clog injectors.
Have 2018 1801 with F115 prop is 16k x 13 1/8 (stamped on prop). 3 adults, full tank of fuel..40 gals, and gear boat jumps on plane pretty well. WOT is 39 - 40 mph under calm conditions. Very satisfied with factory performance. Motor set at 3red hole...only one possible hole to move up. Able to push bow down so boat is just about level...would not want to push bow down any further. No trim tabs. It will be a wet boat just like any other less than 23ft cc. At some year Parker moved livewell in front of console and moved fuel tank towards bow leading to a better balanced boat...2018 has these attributes. Not sure what year these changes were made.
 
Permatrim helps a ton and knocks down on porpoising when running into the swell. Inexpensive way to smooth out the ride on the 1801s. As for wet riding, I just move my pax around and adjust my speeds. Sometimes there’s no way around it if the seas don’t play fair (which they don’t often).
 
As promised, circling back on the Bennett Tabs install.

I bought 18x9 hydraulic tabs (amazon - $650 or something). Wow, it changed the hull's performance immensely! Usually use about 1/5 tab down in all conditions and it's great. When needed, albeit rare, dropping the tabs hard makes for a wonderfully improved ride in the Chesapeake Bay chop.

Best usage is on those moderately breezy days - lower tabs about 3/4 and cruise on plane around 3400rpms/16mph. It keeps me up on plane, but also easy ride on the boat (and me). Could never plane that low previously, so it was either get beat or come off plane.

1800/1801 needs tabs before it needs a fishfinder. My opinion. They are that much worth it.
 
As promised, circling back on the Bennett Tabs install.

I bought 18x9 hydraulic tabs (amazon - $650 or something). Wow, it changed the hull's performance immensely! Usually use about 1/5 tab down in all conditions and it's great. When needed, albeit rare, dropping the tabs hard makes for a wonderfully improved ride in the Chesapeake Bay chop.

Best usage is on those moderately breezy days - lower tabs about 3/4 and cruise on plane around 3400rpms/16mph. It keeps me up on plane, but also easy ride on the boat (and me). Could never plane that low previously, so it was either get beat or come off plane.

1800/1801 needs tabs before it needs a fishfinder. My opinion. They are that much worth it.
No photos of your install?
 
Besides the holes drilled where Bennett templates put you, this is what I can offer.
(Note that my 18 is before the stern boxes came around)

20200929_103650.jpg20201007_074855.jpg20200929_103822.jpg20200929_103614.jpg
 
I'm wondering if the electric ones would still require ladder/platform modification? I also want to go with the 18x9 but in electric.
In comparing your actuator location with my platform, it looks close.
 

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Can't advise you on hydraulics vs electric actuator height, but I can say the 18 x 9 certainly throw the bow down at full engagement, almost too much. 12 x 9 would probably be fine.
 
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