2003 2520 Battery Relocation

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gregd123

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
8
I have a 2003 2520 SCD with twin Suzuki 200's. Planning on moving the two existing batteries from the transom to the floor of the pilothouse and adding a house battery and BEP cluster. First question of the project, do I need to run/extend the engine wiring harnesses to the batteries or would I be better off adding a terminal block in the transom connected by the right size wire to the batteries in the pilot house?
 
I have a 2003 2520 SCD with twin Suzuki 200's. Planning on moving the two existing batteries from the transom to the floor of the pilothouse and adding a house battery and BEP cluster. First question of the project, do I need to run/extend the engine wiring harnesses to the batteries or would I be better off adding a terminal block in the transom connected by the right size wire to the batteries in the pilot house?
The terminal block at the stern with heavy cables running forward to the batteries is going to be your easiest option. Otherwise, you're going to need to fish new, heavier gauge wiring through the engine rigging tubes and the rigging grommet into the motor... not an easy task, if you can get it to fit at all.
 
Thanks pelagic for the response. Anyone who has moved their batteries forward on a Parker pilothouse do it differently? Any "words to the wise" before starting the project are appreciated.
 
Can you provide the reason for moving the batteries forward and explain the pilot house floor. Is that inside a bench seat on the floor?
 
Thanks pelagic for the response. Anyone who has moved their batteries forward on a Parker pilothouse do it differently? Any "words to the wise" before starting the project are appreciated.
Are you installing a new hatch in the deck inside the pilothouse, or are you using one of the seat base storage compartments?

If you post a detailed description of your plan here before embarking, some members might be able to point out any issues. Moving batteries forward is a pretty common project.
 
Baker/Pelagic, the idea for the project started with my desire to isolate my house by adding a third battery and BEP cluster. I have read that moving the batteries forward improves the weight distribution/ride. Enough to be noticed? I don't know. Interested to hear others thoughts on that. The other reasons for the project are 1) I will end up with a thorough understanding of the wiring on my boat and 2) there seems to be a lot of miscellaneous "extra" wires that I could eliminate as part of the project. My thought is the "extra" wires are related to the wiring for the original motor and aren't needed and only add to the confusion when diagnosing issues. Regarding the pilot house floor, there is an existing round access port to a bilge pump in the floor just aft of the sleeping area. This compartment might fit the three batteries but it would be tight and I would have to figure out what to do with the bilge pump. I have a structural diagram of the boat that shows a second, larger compartment aft of the compartment with the bilge pump.

In a nutshell, my plan is to install a hatch in the center of the floor basically right where you step in to the pilothouse to access this second compartment behind the pilothouse bilge compartment (not to be confused with the bilge pump located at the transom). I would probably glass in a platform a couple inches off the bottom of this compartment to allow bilge water to run under and the batteries to sit on top of. I would then run cables to 1) the existing terminal blocks in the area behind the helm that power all my electronics and 2) back to new terminal blocks mounted in the stern for the engines power.
 
Baker/Pelagic, the idea for the project started with my desire to isolate my house by adding a third battery and BEP cluster. I have read that moving the batteries forward improves the weight distribution/ride. Enough to be noticed? I don't know. Interested to hear others thoughts on that. The other reasons for the project are 1) I will end up with a thorough understanding of the wiring on my boat and 2) there seems to be a lot of miscellaneous "extra" wires that I could eliminate as part of the project. My thought is the "extra" wires are related to the wiring for the original motor and aren't needed and only add to the confusion when diagnosing issues. Regarding the pilot house floor, there is an existing round access port to a bilge pump in the floor just aft of the sleeping area. This compartment might fit the three batteries but it would be tight and I would have to figure out what to do with the bilge pump. I have a structural diagram of the boat that shows a second, larger compartment aft of the compartment with the bilge pump.

In a nutshell, my plan is to install a hatch in the center of the floor basically right where you step in to the pilothouse to access this second compartment behind the pilothouse bilge compartment (not to be confused with the bilge pump located at the transom). I would probably glass in a platform a couple inches off the bottom of this compartment to allow bilge water to run under and the batteries to sit on top of. I would then run cables to 1) the existing terminal blocks in the area behind the helm that power all my electronics and 2) back to new terminal blocks mounted in the stern for the engines power.
Understood. If I were going to move my batteries forward, that's the same approximate plan that I'd use. It's been done before, can't remember if I saw it on here or on one of the Facebook groups, but your idea of glassing in a shelf in in the new compartment is a good one.

Make sure to post pictures and a good write-up of your project!
 
Does yours have a plumbed in head with holding tank? If not, the location of where the holding tank would go would be an ideal location.
 
No head/holding tank. GotChrist, where would that be located if that were present?

Pelagic, I will post the progress. Not sure when I am going to start. Need to commit to being down for probably at least a month based on how long projects typically take me. Unfortunately when all is said and done it will probably be 2 months and we are heading into tuna season here on the west coast.
 
Pelagic, I will post the progress. Not sure when I am going to start. Need to commit to being down for probably at least a month based on how long projects typically take me. Unfortunately when all is said and done it will probably be 2 months and we are heading into tuna season here on the west coast.
I'll say this, re-doing the primary electrical distribution system (battery mounting, battery cables, battery switch, panel feeders) in the 2530 took me three days of dedicated work. If you plan it well ahead of time and pre-order all the materials, the electrical side goes surprisingly quickly. That said, I wasn't moving the batteries, just ripping out, renewing and reworking the system.

Cutting in the new compartment, that could take a minute. But I'd say if you give yourself a dedicated week, you should be able to knock it out, provided you have the parts you'll need.

Either way, good luck!
 
I believe the access hatch is for the holding tank inspection area. If yours doesn't have the hatch, then that is where you'd cut into the deck to set the batteries. I'm going by memory thinking back to an 06 w/head I looked at. I haven't been on any other 2520 to know if they all have that hatch or not. Pic from the web of a 2520 w/head.1620505130161.png
 
I believe the access hatch is for the holding tank inspection area. If yours doesn't have the hatch, then that is where you'd cut into the deck to set the batteries. I'm going by memory thinking back to an 06 w/head I looked at. I haven't been on any other 2520 to know if they all have that hatch or not. Pic from the web of a 2520 w/head.View attachment 28976
Hi All, In case this helps, this video will show how much space is under that hatch, and will show measurements with a tape-measure... If anyone needs more measurements I'm happy go to the boat and get more; for example, I should have added the depth of this area when doing the video...

1620527598380.png
 
Last edited:
Hi All, In case this helps, this video will show how much space is under that hatch, and will show measurements with a tape-measure... If anyone needs more measurements I'm happy go to the boat and get more; for example, I should have added the depth of this area when doing the video...

View attachment 28981

Andy, awesome footage. I've often wondered if that space continues aft past that compartment, albeit in a less-finished state I'm sure. Since I have the extended cabin, there seems like there may be a good amount of space in there that's just going to waste. May have to poke around a bit with a borescope or something...
 
Andy, awesome footage. I've often wondered if that space continues aft past that compartment, albeit in a less-finished state I'm sure. Since I have the extended cabin, there seems like there may be a good amount of space in there that's just going to waste. May have to poke around a bit with a borescope or something...
Hi Pelagic, Thank you! I'll bet there is a lot of space 'down-under' that could be used for storage and such... I can't see further aft than the holding tank; I suppose the fuel tank is close to it. Our 2013/2014 2520 has the 200 gallon fuel tank, so there may not be much more useable space...
 
Sorry not great pics but some of the holding tank area on my 28 when replacing the holding tank.
 

Attachments

  • EB570F93-6C92-4963-8366-D3E48E55E245.jpeg
    EB570F93-6C92-4963-8366-D3E48E55E245.jpeg
    601.8 KB · Views: 19
  • EA0F3272-294A-4617-BFEB-65B53A8283BE.jpeg
    EA0F3272-294A-4617-BFEB-65B53A8283BE.jpeg
    336.8 KB · Views: 19
  • AA2DFFEF-1B8D-4713-BFE3-E8D5B58847C0.jpeg
    AA2DFFEF-1B8D-4713-BFE3-E8D5B58847C0.jpeg
    328.5 KB · Views: 21
  • A7F1193B-2190-47E3-A01B-D62258438B99.jpeg
    A7F1193B-2190-47E3-A01B-D62258438B99.jpeg
    1,015.2 KB · Views: 23
  • 1B2E4AB8-FFA6-4D52-910D-3C355FB65CB8.jpeg
    1B2E4AB8-FFA6-4D52-910D-3C355FB65CB8.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 21
  • A60D668B-56E0-4F81-8888-9E96BDA5464A.jpeg
    A60D668B-56E0-4F81-8888-9E96BDA5464A.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 20
  • AA306C02-1D6B-48D8-937E-D7250C6CC4EC.jpeg
    AA306C02-1D6B-48D8-937E-D7250C6CC4EC.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 18
Baker/Pelagic, the idea for the project started with my desire to isolate my house by adding a third battery and BEP cluster. I have read that moving the batteries forward improves the weight distribution/ride. Enough to be noticed? I don't know. Interested to hear others thoughts on that. The other reasons for the project are 1) I will end up with a thorough understanding of the wiring on my boat and 2) there seems to be a lot of miscellaneous "extra" wires that I could eliminate as part of the project. My thought is the "extra" wires are related to the wiring for the original motor and aren't needed and only add to the confusion when diagnosing issues. Regarding the pilot house floor, there is an existing round access port to a bilge pump in the floor just aft of the sleeping area. This compartment might fit the three batteries but it would be tight and I would have to figure out what to do with the bilge pump. I have a structural diagram of the boat that shows a second, larger compartment aft of the compartment with the bilge pump.

In a nutshell, my plan is to install a hatch in the center of the floor basically right where you step in to the pilothouse to access this second compartment behind the pilothouse bilge compartment (not to be confused with the bilge pump located at the transom). I would probably glass in a platform a couple inches off the bottom of this compartment to allow bilge water to run under and the batteries to sit on top of. I would then run cables to 1) the existing terminal blocks in the area behind the helm that power all my electronics and 2) back to new terminal blocks mounted in the stern for the engines power.
I understand the thought of adding the third battery with the BEP cluster. However, regarding the weight distribution; are you having trouble with the ride? Seems like a lot of work for little benefit. Maybe experiment first, for example, place a 150 feet of chain on the pilothouse floor and go for a ride? Adding the third house battery, 60 pounds or so, in the aft bilge should not make a noticable difference.
 
Back
Top