2005 2510 Fuel Fill Line

[johnfbushjr]

I'm replacing my fuel fill and vent lines on my 2510 this off-season and am doing some research on our forum. I notice a strong fuel odor every time I refuel that dissipates in a day or two; I'm pretty sure I have a line problem. I've seen a few articles on doing this job on the center consoles and pilot houses but none specific to the 2510. Any 2510 owners out there that have tackled this? I'm looking for some general advice before I start, other than be prepared to lose a pint of blood!

 

[Mpellet]

You could have a fill line leak but you could also have a leak at the sending unit gasket. Next time you need fuel, BEFORE you fill up, clean the area around your sending unit and then leave DRY paper towels around it. Fill the tank all the way up and either run the boat if you filled up with the boat in the water or trailer the boat a few miles if you filled up with the boat on the trailer. Now inspect/ SMELL those clean paper towels you left around the sending unit and see/smell if they're damp or smell like gasoline. If those towels are damp or smell like gasoline, you might still have a bad fill or vent line but you’ve also got a leaking sending unit gasket.

As for replacing the fill line. Here is how I did it on my 2005 Parker 2520. Remove the screws attaching the stainless steel fill nozzle fitting to the gunnel . There may also be a ground wire also attached to that fitting At the fuel tank remove the hose clamps. I used a pair of pump pliers to twist the rubber hose off the fuel tank. Wiggle the stainless fill nozzle fitting out of the gunnel. I securely taped a piece of line to the hose at the tank end and pulled the fuel line out through the hole in the gunnel where the fill nozzle was. You have now pulled that attacked line from fuel tank, up to the hole in the gunnel where the fill nozzle was. Securely tape that same line to your new fuel fill hose, have a helper feed the hose in the hole in the gunnel as you pull the line from the end at the fuel tank. Connect and clamp the new fill line to the fuel tank, attach other end of the new fill line to your fuel fill nozzle, screw the nozzle back in place, reattach ground wire.

 

[johnfbushjr]

I think I need to get this whole port side panel out of the way to get good access to the bottom side of the fill line. Does anyone know how to get it out? I thought it just screwed but it feels like there are nuts on the backside of what look like wood screws from the front side. Are they bolts? I can reach most of them from the door near the deck but not all of them. Anyone out there with a 2510 or maybe a 2310 that has removed this whole panel?

 

[johnfbushjr]

I was able to get the line changed on Friday. The vent line was fine it was definitely the fill line. Check out the cracks in the photo below it was in terrible shape. There were two areas similar to the one shown in the photo. I'll post more detailed photos and a procedure later. Thanks all for the help, especially whoever suggested coating the new hose with Dawn. Once the "Dawned" section of hose went below deck it slide right through.

 

[tomc585]

What year is the boat? Just wondering how long that hose took to deteriorate.

 

[johnfbushjr]

What year is the boat? Just wondering how long that hose took to deteriorate.

It is a 2005 that I bought used earlier this season. I don't know for sure but I think this is the original fuel hose.

 

[johnfbushjr]

Here is the procedure I followed to change the fuel hose and vent hose on my 2005 Parker 2510.

BOM

A2 Fuel Hose, 1-1/2” inner diameter for fill line, and 5/8” inner diameter for vent line
Hose clamps (4) for fill hose, SAE size 28 (Amazon.com: Scandvik 08134037045 Stainless Steel Hose Clamp (SAE Size 28, 32-57 mm, 1 2 1/4", 12mm Band, 13657), 10 Pack: Automotive)
Hose clamps (4) for vent hose, SAE size 10 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FM7QLJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?)
Dawn soap
Duct tape
Couplers (wood dowel and self tapping screws)

TOOLS

Large Channel locks for breaking the hose loose from the barbs
¼” drive socket set for removing the side access panel (11/32” deep well socket) and for torqueing the hose clamps
Work Light or Headlamp
Screwdriver for hoseclamps
Drill driver with #2 philips bit for removing pie plate and side access panel
Razor Knife for cutting hose
Wire cutters for cutting the wire inside the hose

PROCEDURE

1. Unscrews the port seat bubble from the deck and slide it towards the stern so you have full access to the side panel shown in picture #1.
2. Remove the port side access panel. Some of the fasteners are oval head wood screws, the others are oval head machine screws. Picture #2 shows the panel removed.
3. On the fill side, remove the ground wire from the fill fitting and duct tape it to the hull so it doesn’t slide down below deck. See picture #3.
4. On the fill side, loosen and slide the hose clamp(s) down past the fill fitting’s barb.
5. Remove the old hose from the fill fitting barb. You may have to cut the hose with a razor knife and/or twist it off with a pair of channel locks.
6. Remove the deck pie plate shown in picture #4 to gain access to the connections on the fuel tank. You will want to remove the whole pie plate assembly by unscrewing it from the deck (i.e. – not jus the center part). You will need every square inch of room you can get.
7. On the tank side, loosen and slide the hose clamp(s) back past the tank’s hose barb.
8. Remove the hose from the fuel tank hose barb.
9. Immediately duct tape the fuel tank opening to prevent debris from entering the tank. See picture #5.
10. Couple the new hose to the old hose at fill side using duct tape and a coupler. A strong connection is needed so you can use the old hose to pull the new hose below the deck. I used a small piece of wood 1x2 about 6” in length as a coupler. Insert the wood inside the hose, then use self taping wood screws to screw from the outside of the hose in to the wood. Use two screws on each side. Then use duct tape to cover the whole area extending at least 6 inches up on each hose. This ensures the coupling will not get snagged below deck. This is a very very strong connection. You will not be able to undo it, you will need to cut it off which is why you need extra length of hose.
11. Next liberally coat the new hose with dawn soap. Don’t coat the whole hose at one time though or you will never be able to get a grip on it to push it down through the chase. Coat about 2 feet at a time. There’s a punchline in here somewhere.
12. Now have one person push the new hose down the chase and one person pull the old hose through the deck pie plate opening. See picture #6. I did this by myself but two guys make it easier. I thought this would be difficult, but the soap allowed it to slide right through.
13. Keep pulling and pull the splice all of the way out of the access hole. Again this is why you want to have extra hose length. See picture #7.
14. Cut the splice out using a razor knife. The hose is reinforced with wire so you will need a pair of side cutters to cut the wire. Do use a hack saw like I did at first. It creates rubber saw dust which is a real PITA to clean out of the ID of the hose.
15. Slip the hose clamps around the new hose. It’s a good practice to have them facing in opposite directions. It is also a good practice to use new clamps.
16. Remove the tape from the fuel tank barb. Clean and lubricate it with WD-40 or similar.
17. Install the hose on to the fuel tank barb and tighten the hose clamps.
18. Cut the hose to the proper length on the fill fitting side and re-install using the same steps as the fuel tank side.
19. Re-attach the ground wire.
20. Repeat same procedure for the vent hose. The only difference is the coupling design. I used a razor knife to create a tapered butt joint and one self tapping screw to mechanically connect them. Use plenty of duct tape again and just cut it off when done. See picture #8 of the splice prior to taping.
21. Picture #9 shows the serious cracks in my fill hose. My vent hose looked fine but there is no way to inspect it without removing it.
22. Picture #10 is a view from the pie plate access looking towards the bow and the chase opening.