2006 2820 circuit breaker tripping on washdown

[stoker2001]

trying to help friend.not even sure where location of auto-type CB location is?previous owner replaced washdown pump and now it will only operate for 20-30 seconds befor tripping.I realize either CB is defective or the rated amperage is too low for new pump..?thanks

 

[Brent]

Has Pump been disassembled and checked for debris

 

[stoker2001]

Has Pump been disassembled and checked for debris

has great pressure and volume for about 20-30 seconds then trips/pops circuit breaker.I assume CB is near rocker switch on dash?boat is 80 miles from me sitting in slip.just trying to get info when i get chance to go work on it.thx

 

[Bodick93]

After you check the pump / filter for debris, and assuming it is clean, make a little jumper with 2 alligator clips and use another switch that utilizes a cb with the same setpoint. Disconnect it from it's usual function. Those breakers are very inexpensive.
Was the pump replaced with one that draws more current?

 

[Antidote]

What boat are you taking about? On a 2520 the CB is on the CB panel in the berth.

 

[warthog5]

To Start.....Find the Exact model pump and look up the spec's on it....[Amperage draw]

Boat manufactures install....Sure Flow pumps aka "No Flow"

FYI: The only pumps I install are Jabsco Parmax Hot Shots....usually the 6GPM @ 70PSI....They will blow the Squid Juice off your deck.

 

[pelagic2530]

If it’s like most Parker panels, the CB will be behind a black rubber “button” cap immediately adjacent to the switch. If this is something that was installed aftermarket… all bets are off. You’ll have to trace wiring.

Has it always run like this, or is it a new development? Circuit breakers/fuses should not trip/blow under normal operation. If this just started, you have a problem in your system and you need to find out what it is. If it’s always done this, it could be that the breaker is undersized. Find the pump manufacturer and model number and look up what the MFR specifies for the circuit protection. Do not simply base it on amperage draw.

This is very important to get right, as DC motor circuits pose a severe fire hazard in the case of a locked rotor (as in a pump that is energized but blocked). Amperage draw will decrease as the pump heats up, and improperly sized circuit protection will fail to trip/blow prior to the pump burning up and potentially causing a fire. Find out what the MFR specifies, and follow that.

 

[stoker2001]

After you check the pump / filter for debris, and assuming it is clean, make a little jumper with 2 alligator clips and use another switch that utilizes a cb with the same setpoint. Disconnect it from it's usual function. Those breakers are very inexpensive.
Was the pump replaced with one that draws more current?

all i know is it was recently replaced.thanks

 

[stoker2001]

If it’s like most Parker panels, the CB will be behind a black rubber “button” cap immediately adjacent to the switch. If this is something that was installed aftermarket… all bets are off. You’ll have to trace wiring.

Has it always run like this, or is it a new development? Circuit breakers/fuses should not trip/blow under normal operation. If this just started, you have a problem in your system and you need to find out what it is. If it’s always done this, it could be that the breaker is undersized. Find the pump manufacturer and model number and look up what the MFR specifies for the circuit protection. Do not simply base it on amperage draw.

This is very important to get right, as DC motor circuits pose a severe fire hazard in the case of a locked rotor (as in a pump that is energized but blocked). Amperage draw will decrease as the pump heats up, and improperly sized circuit protection will fail to trip/blow prior to the pump burning up and potentially causing a fire. Find out what the MFR specifies, and follow that.

thank you,all i know is a new pump was installed and then the problem with it tripping after 20-30 seconds.for the short time it works the pressure and volume is good.the same rocker switch also powers the bait well pump,so both pumps cannot operate simultainously.thanks

 

[stoker2001]

What boat are you taking about? On a 2520 the CB is on the CB panel in the berth.

berth? boat is 2820 model year 2006.CB panel is right next to row of rocker switchs on dash?

 

[stoker2001]

FYI: The only pumps I install are Jabsco Parmax Hot Shots....usually the 6GPM @ 70PSI....They will blow the Squid Juice off your deck.

you sure that isnt the "hotshot" model?part#P601J-219N-3A?thats only one on Amazon i see with 6GPM @70PSI...better blow some juice for $200.00

 

[pelagic2530]

thank you,all i know is a new pump was installed and then the problem with it tripping after 20-30 seconds.for the short time it works the pressure and volume is good.the same rocker switch also powers the bait well pump,so both pumps cannot operate simultainously.thanks

I’m guessing the new pump has a higher amp draw than the old one. You’ll likely need to replace the circuit protection.

Hopefully there are separate breakers for the bait well pump and washdown pump. If they call for different CB amp ratings, you’ll end up with an improperly protected circuit. However, I doubt this is the case. You may need to install an inline fuse in the circuit with the lower amp circuit protection rating to ensure that both circuits function and are protected appropriately.

The better option would be to wire the washdown pump to an open accessory switch, install the correct size circuit breaker, and use the existing switch to only control the bait well pump. I’ve never understood why manufacturers like to use one DT switch for both pumps. There’s no reason they can’t run simultaneously, especially for the relatively short periods a washdown pump will likely be running.

 

[Antidote]

berth? boat is 2820 model year 2006.CB panel is right next to row of rocker switchs on dash?

Yes berth. Through this hatch is the berth. On the bulkhead to starboard, after entering the hatch, is a circuit breaker panel on my 2019 2529 XLD. lol

 

[Brent]

has great pressure and volume for about 20-30 seconds then trips/pops circuit breaker.I assume CB is near rocker switch on dash?boat is 80 miles from me sitting in slip.just trying to get info when i get chance to go work on it.thx

 

[Brent]

See Warthog’s advice

 

[warthog5]

.the same rocker switch also powers the bait well pump,so both pumps cannot operate simultainously

Wait...Wait Wait........Are you saying the washdown & Livewell are on the same Switch? IE: one switch operates both circuits?

Does it Not have 1 switch for Livewell......and another switch for the Washdown?

 

[stoker2001]

Wait...Wait Wait........Are you saying the washdown & Livewell are on the same Switch? IE: one switch operates both circuits?

Does it Not have 1 switch for Livewell......and another switch for the Washdown?

3 position rocker switch..rock switch to right and turns on livewell pump,rock to left and turns on washdown..centered position is off.Parker rigs it that way,which is sillylike was mentioned here,no reason both pumps cant operate simultainously..So i plan on rewiring one or other to a spare switch

 

[Bodick93]

I run my wash down and baitwell pumps for a fairly long time simultaneously with no issues. We will typically have 30 to 36 croakers in the livewell and bait tank combined, and I run them 10 minutes on, 20 off.
I probably shouldn't, but I supply my temp bait tank with water from the washdown pump. When underway, it fills the tank without the pump running just like the livewell. I put a valved "Y" on the bulkhead fitting so I can still use the washdown. It's not really made for that, but it works fine for 3 or 4 cobia trips per year.

 

[warthog5]

3 position rocker switch..rock switch to right and turns on livewell pump,rock to left and turns on washdown..centered position is off.Parker rigs it that way,which is sillylike was mentioned here,no reason both pumps cant operate simultainously..So i plan on rewiring one or other to a spare switch

WOW! Thats a New one on me....I've never seen that.....Oh.....and it's Dumb.

Yes like you idea on rewire spare switch.


FYI: I run into all kinds of Factory / Dealer installs that are crap work.

Just yesterday..'17 19ft Carolina Skiff ..... Batteries in console. Cables from Power post at transom to console. Negative cable 2ga Yellow AWG Marine grade and tinned ends. Positive cable 2ga...Red SAE non tinned and bare copper ends. The bare copper ends were all corroding.