2120 SC add splashboard scuppers to drain cockpit faster

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greatcir

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When I washed the boat, the small notches on the bottom of the spashboard could not drain fast enough to get the dirt out even if the hose was aimed at the drain notch.

I removed the splashboard, took it home and added a port and starboard drain scupper in addition to the two drain notches and now the cockpit drains great.

I bought two scuppers identical to the ones in the transom. If I did it again, I would simply add a flap of plastic over the new drain cut outs from the back side.

...........Pete
 

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  • Original drain slot, new scupper closed good shot (Small).jpg
    Original drain slot, new scupper closed good shot (Small).jpg
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  • Scupper flap being held open (Small).jpg
    Scupper flap being held open (Small).jpg
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  • Scupper closed, only original opening draining cockpit (Small).jpg
    Scupper closed, only original opening draining cockpit (Small).jpg
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  • Scupper open can handle full wash down hose water (Small).jpg
    Scupper open can handle full wash down hose water (Small).jpg
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  • Transom scupper (Small).JPG
    Transom scupper (Small).JPG
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Nice job. Perhaps you won't tire of the splashguard being in the way and remove it, like I did. I was frustrated with the dirty water being retained in the cockpit as well, especially when washing out fish blood with the raw water wash. Seems it never drained unless we were up on plane, walking from one side of the boat to the other, to enable the water to reach the drain holes. Now it just drains out the rear scuppers while we are trolling or at rest.

I realize I take a risk that a wave may enter the notch and fill the floor, but I don't think the splashguard will be that much of a benefit in a catastrophic swamping situation... but this is getting into the whole notch vs. full transom thing all over again and that was not the intention of your post, was it?!!

All in all, a nice solution to the water retention problem caused by the guard. What we really need is a one-way force field that will keep the good stuff in and the bad stuff out. Too bad James Doohan (Scotty) is not around anymore!
 
This situation is definetly a PITA.Getting the sand from the clam baits out is almost impossible.Today I gut hooked a bass and it was a real pain getting the blood out with the washdown.
My biggest concern is when I fish the white water in the fall.If I leave that splashguard I'm afraid if I take a roller over the transom that it will not drain fast enough.I've been know to add 4 inches or so inside the boat,it's that second roller that REALLY scares me.
 
I pulled the splash guard the first trip and installed a 162 colman cooler. The cooler stops water from splasing and still allows for easy draining.
 
Hey JC,did you remove the splash guard after you installed that transom notch?
If you remove the splashguard can you put screws back in the same holes to make it less offensive looking and prevent water from going into holes?
 
Lucky John":2xpoz1j1 said:
If you remove the splashguard can you put screws back in the same holes to make it less offensive looking and prevent water from going into holes?

I carefully filled the holes with fiberglass filler then applied Parker’s interior gelcote to match the surrounding area. The holes disappeared.
 
When I washed the boat, the small notches on the bottom of the spashboard could not drain fast enough to get the dirt out even if the hose was aimed at the drain notch.

I removed the splashboard, took it home and added a port and starboard drain scupper in addition to the two drain notches and now the cockpit drains great.

I bought two scuppers identical to the ones in the transom. If I did it again, I would simply add a flap of plastic over the new drain cut outs from the back side.

...........Pete
Nice idea..I have a new to me Parker and noticed I have the same issue when washing down boat. Why would you do a plastic flap as oppose to the way you did it with the scuppers?
 
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