6 gage Wire to the Anchor Locker

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When running the wire up thru the fuel tank inspection plate inside the center console, what is the best way to seal the hole? Thanks.
 
When running the wire up thru the fuel tank inspection plate inside the center console, what is the best way to seal the hole?
You do not run it through pie plate. You run it from console wires and cables square opening towards front inspection plate and than alongside of fuel fill line up to port gunnel and from there to anchor locker.
 
I'll have to check this out in tomorrows light... Where is the front inspection plate located?
 
I have a 2019 23se. I have an open bow with just a seat ahead of the console. The only openings in the deck that I am aware of that I have access to are the fuel tank inspection plate inside the center console and the opening for the bilge.
 
Update: The 6g duplex is in from CC to anchor locker. It would not go thru the fuel line chase alone. I taped a piece of old garden hose to the fuel vent line, at the side of the boat. I then taped the duplex to the connection of vent line and hose. I pulled the duplex and hose thru to the cc by pulling on the vent line and pushing on the hose/duplex. Success. I then used the hose to pull the vent line back in to position. 20 minutes
 
That being said...Minn Kota supplies their 24V/80lb units with 3' leads of 10 AWG. Not sure what comes with the 36V units.

All Manufactures do 10ga @ the motor in all voltages.
 
Wart, If you run a 6 AWG from the batteries, what do you do for the splice connection from a 6 AWG to the 10 AWG leads? I've seen 10/12 - 8 connectors but not to a 6?
 
The 6awg goes to a trolling motor receptacle mounted somewhere near your
trolling motor. The 10awg leads from the trolling motor go to the male plug matching up to the receptacle. Unplug your trolling motor when charging your TM batteries. No need to use any splices. Marino makes a nice 70amp TM plug/receptacle. Go for the heavy duty one.
 
Unplug your trolling motor when charging your TM batteries.

No...Install a Master ON/OFF switch and use it.. When your Not using the TM turn the switch OFF. It's my contention that NOT turning power OFF when not in use is the biggest culprit to TM damage.....Corrosion and screwing up the Mother Board.
 
Update. Batteries and charger installed.

I'm reading 26.88 volts at the bow. I believe that is good, yes?
 

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Now I have to wait for the trolling motor to ship. I ordered it on 3/27. Waiting
 
Just finished pulling 2 4ga wires through on my 1801. What a pain in the ars it was! Called the guy who rebuild my deck. He said he did not leave any space like it was originally designed where deck meets a square rigging conduit. By using borescope I was able to find barely enough space to pull the wires. Lots of electrical lube in wires was tremendous help.
 
all this talk about 6ga and 4ga..... i ran 8ga because thats what minn. kota spec said. do you guys think that minn kota would spec something that is not rite with there trolling motors?
my boat is a 1801 with a 36v 112 thrust 60”. as far as running the wires it took about 15 minutes my self. i started with a fist from the front inspection plate to the fuel fill and then back to the console. pulled 3/8 rope then the 8ga wire
 
all this talk about 6ga and 4ga..... i ran 8ga because thats what minn. kota spec said. do you guys think that minn kota would spec something that is not rite with there trolling motors?
my boat is a 1801 with a 36v 112 thrust 60”. as far as running the wires it took about 15 minutes my self. i started with a fist from the front inspection plate to the fuel fill and then back to the console. pulled 3/8 rope then the 8ga wire
Depends on what exactly the spec said. You're also running a 36V system instead of a 24V system. Therefore, your amperage is going to be less and you can use wires of a lesser ampacity, i.e. smaller cables. It's all about how the electrical math works out, which I would encourage anyone doing an install like this to confirm, rather than simply relying on what the MFR says. Regardless, using larger cables is going to mean a lower voltage drop, and therefore better system performance. Certainly using smaller cables than the MFR dictates would be a bad idea.
 
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