91 Parker CC Fuel tank replacement

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Toodee

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The old 95 gallon fuel tank had a good run. 30 years till it started leaking. I’ll post my progress from beginning to end and look for you guys for advice as this is my first time doing this type of work. Fuel tank is out and new thicker gauge (3/16”) aluminum tank is getting built.

I won’t be using foam to install the new tank. I’ll be using neoprene rubber for the bedding as recommended by the tank builder (best in Southern Cali).

Question 1: I noticed the fuel coffin was originally a completely sealed unit. So if any water got in the coffin, it stayed in the coffin with nowhere to go. I installed two drains at the rear of the coffin for water to drain into the bilge. Obviously this is not intended for fuel to drain through but is it ok to install drains in the fuel coffin?

Question 2: When replacing the floor cut out, will 1/4” angle aluminum all around the perimeter of the coffin, as a support shelf for the floor cut out, be strong enough to support the weight of people? (Floor cut out screwed into the aluminum angle, the epoxy / glass the cut seam)07616D47-5ED1-462C-9451-FB7CCC72CD41.jpegF978087C-21B1-44A9-817C-C1C133828F8D.jpeg101DB34F-B747-4DE9-94D7-0E33CCF66F49.jpeg4E7F3AF4-2A23-47BE-9DE9-D92774A7B4B0.jpeg8B3EE00F-C3A1-4A3E-83A5-1C82ED311E41.jpeg9839172E-94EE-4ED1-8CD3-6867493B1407.jpeg
 

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Trim the floor back to expose 1/2 the width of the stringers and bulk heads. This is where your new floor will sit.
Wouldnt adding drains to the rear of the coffin allow water that may collect in the bilge to flow forward?
 
Trim the floor back to expose 1/2 the width of the stringers and bulk heads. This is where your new floor will sit.
Wouldnt adding drains to the rear of the coffin allow water that may collect in the bilge to flow forward?

If I trim back the stringers I won’t be able to reuse the cutout because it would be too small. I want to reuse the cutout. I just need to figure out if 1/4” angle aluminum will be strong enough to hold the cutout in place or if I have to use wood (which I don’t want to because then I’ll have to seal it to prevent rot).

The plan is to add a 6” access hatch to
be able to reach into the other side of those drains and be able to plug and in-plug the PVC pipes with rubber corks.
 
May I ask who is building your new tank? Im in San Diego and doing a major deck replacement along with the fuel tank.
 
May I ask who is building your new tank? Im in San Diego and doing a major deck replacement along with the fuel tank.

Vince at American Fuel Tanks in La Mesa. (Americantanks.net) Well known for his great work. Real friendly family owned business. They been around since the 70’s. Expect to pay $12-$13 per gallon.
 
What is the horizontal span of the opening? Short side? It looks small in width so that will be rigid, but what about length? You probably want to run an angle across and over the tank to shorten the long span in half. This is about minimizing deflection of the part you cut out and are putting back in. You don’t want flex or bending or the top finish coat will crack. Also, for a trailer boat I like the drains that you placed and the idea for the plugs.
 
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Not an expert but could you do some kind of PVC drain with a plug. Then you could open to dry out if necessary.
 
Frozen...Youd never be able to reach the plugs, unless you installed a Large hatch like I did.

I know what he's "Trying" to do here, but...If you follow my install instructions...it Eliminates any water from getting in there in the first place....and that is the goal.

Seal the tank coffin and bridge from top of tank to stringers with fiberglass preventing ANY water that leaks past the inspection pieholes from weeping int the foam. A single limber hole even with the top of the tank to the bilge will bleed off any water that gets on the top of the tank.

You are going to prep and coat the tank with Coal Tar epoxy....Correct?

And you are going to use 4lb density foam to reinstall.....Correct?

Not 2lb of Freaking "Great Stuff" :( Yea....unknowning people do that. :(
 
Not an expert but could you do some kind of PVC drain with a plug. Then you could open to dry out if necessary.
Yes that’s what I’ll be doing. Adding a 6” inspection hatch where I can reach down 18” to remove the plugs.
 
Frozen...Youd never be able to reach the plugs, unless you installed a Large hatch like I did.

I know what he's "Trying" to do here, but...If you follow my install instructions...it Eliminates any water from getting in there in the first place....and that is the goal.

Seal the tank coffin and bridge from top of tank to stringers with fiberglass preventing ANY water that leaks past the inspection pieholes from weeping int the foam. A single limber hole even with the top of the tank to the bilge will bleed off any water that gets on the top of the tank.

You are going to prep and coat the tank with Coal Tar epoxy....Correct?

And you are going to use 4lb density foam to reinstall.....Correct?

Not 2lb of Freaking "Great Stuff" :( Yea....unknowning people do that. :(

Thanks Warthog. I’d prefer not to glass over the tank hence why I’m making a breathable coffin. Neoprene strips will keep the tank off the surface and it’ll be secured with the tabs to the stringers.

West coat boats have bait tanks, like mine, directly above the fuel tank. Hoses and fittings can fail without knowing. Foam would be disastrous if unnoticed water leaked from an inspection hatch or the bait tank plumbing. That’s why I chose to do the install this way. Coal Tar epoxy would be beneficial but im pretty sure I can get 20 years out of this tank. I’d have a bigger new boat by then.
 
Picked up the new 3/16” tank from American Fuel Tanks in San Diego. This thing is solid. Vince did a phenomenal job.76F002F4-F69E-4584-8490-660C42923F05.jpeg76F002F4-F69E-4584-8490-660C42923F05.jpeg
 
Nice looking tank. I’m replacing my tank in my 17 this winter. I’ll talk to Vince in SD. My above deck tank is taking up too much space.
 
I also stopped by the a San Diego fiberglass store and picked up 2 yards of 1708 Biaxial for the cut deck seam.

Going to screw down the deck. Taper in the seam about 2” on each side. Fill with peanut butter and glass with 2 layers of the 1708. Here’s more pictures of the tankB799466D-C5A1-45D5-A3F3-735EE7D3DE43.jpegB799466D-C5A1-45D5-A3F3-735EE7D3DE43.jpeg
 
95 X 6.5 = 617lbs + the tank weight held by 4 screws while the boat bounces thru the waves.

When people do it my way....No water will get trapped or enter the coffin....I also tell them to take pix's of the steps for resale. It's Proof.

You will still have a stagnant collection of moisture in your coffin.....Lil solar fans have been used to circulate air. The piehole covers are popped out and coners with a fan installed while boat is at rest.
 
Stacked two 3/4” rubber strips with a top layer of 1/4” Neoprene rubber strip. All layers glued with 5200. The neoprene side will go towards the tank. I’ll be spreading an even layer of 5200 between the tank and neoprene. Then a small bead of 5200 between the rubber and fuel coffin. This will give me the clearance I need between the tank and the Hull and plenty room for any water to run under the tank.
495C67F7-BED1-4EB1-A4D0-69413C08235A.jpeg
 
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I like the air space around the tank and the balanced fastening. Combine that with drainage and you look to be in good shape. This is very similar to how my gradys tanks are installed. Works well for SoCal and also rinsing off a tank and DRAINING any water that accumulates below it. The air space keeps the aluminum dry and condensation can also drain and evaporate.
 
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