Advice for outriggers on a 23SE

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Uncle Matt

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I am considering installing some outriggers on my 23SE. I have a hardtop T-top and trailer my boat everywhere. I will be using the outriggers for tuna fishing in CCB as well as the Chatham area.

Okay my Parker bretheren, any suggestions? I checked the Parker site and they don't offer them as a option. I suspect I will have to have the hardtop removed and plates welded to help support the outriggers.

Matt
 
I have a 21 SE (no t-top) and I mounted a pair of rigger holders on the gunnel well up forward near the gas tank fill. If you don't have them far enough ahead of the rods, you don't get a good angle for the release. I use fiberglass poles that extend and hold with a twist (12 ft long I think). I only use mine a couple of times a year so I didn't want anything to be in the way other times.
 
Matt - I would suggest that you consider Lee's T-Top riggers. Do a search as John from Conn and I put went this route. I will try to find a picture to post. These riggers are fairly easy to mount and don't need to be welded into the tubing of the T-top.

Brad
 
Matt,
I just went through this on my 21dvcc and I went with the 15' taco grand slams. I contacted parker re: their hard tops and they could not tell me if they were cored etc. as they outsource the hardtop production, so I had plates welded on. It was not cheap but I did the shakedown with them on July 4th and everythign appears to be holding up really well. I had Kentfab in Norwell do the metal fab and Eric does really nice work. I'll try and snap some photos for you.

Jeff
 
Here are pictures of taco grand slams mounted on a factory hardtop with welded in backing plates.
 

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Nicely done.

I suspect that due to the balsa core, the HT would probably get crushed under the pressure from the torque applied to the bases. The welded plate would provide the necessary support.

Did they completely remove the HT, or did they remove the bolts on one side, loosen them on the other side and raise the HT enough to do the welding? I've done welding before, and oftentimes, we would open the gap sufficiently to place a piece of heat resistant material (we used asbestos sheets when I was doing this 30 years ago) to protect one side of the area. I'm sure they are using a different material these days, but the approach is the same.
 
I believe he was able to add them by just loosening the bolts and raising the top in teh corners rather than taking the whole thing off. i also had him add some wider wire runs from the electronic box to the console to accomodate the furuno transducer cable.

by the way, I am now seeing red x's instead of the pictures I attempted to post--are other people able to see the photos, or did I screw up?
 
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