Aluminum window frames on 2820xl and engine idle problem

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5

5514matt

Member
Joined
May 16, 2017
Messages
21
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Location
Virginia and OBX
I’ve been out of commission for a while. I’m looking at getting my boat back up to standard.

One issue I have is pretty severe salt pitting on my window frames. I was thinking of priming and painting them. Any better ideas. If not what type of material should I use. I can’t really afford to replace them.

The other issue I have is, one of my engines, 225 Yamahas , are not going all the way into neutral. Mechanic cannot see a problem while on the trailer. The boat is 15 years old and has a second station tower that is raised and lowered frequently. My theory is that the controls are becoming damaged from regular up and down movement of the tower for trailering. Any ideas?

Thanks for any ideas,
Matt
 
I have the same issues with the window frames. I think everyone does. My guess on the neutral is your cables may need replaced or adjusted. Can you shift into gear fine but not into neutral? Do you have the same problem with both stations or just one? You’re probably correct on the tower movement causing the cable to stretch or slightly move the cable out of the correct position but I’m not too familiar with how those are rigged together. Sorry not much help, but keep us posted as to what you find out so if anyone else has the same issues you’ve had then it may help someone else with theirs. Good luck!


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5514matt":2khsl0td said:
I’ve been out of commission for a while. I’m looking at getting my boat back up to standard.

One issue I have is pretty severe salt pitting on my window frames. I was thinking of priming and painting them. Any better ideas. If not what type of material should I use. I can’t really afford to replace them.

The other issue I have is, one of my engines, 225 Yamahas , are not going all the way into neutral. Mechanic cannot see a problem while on the trailer. The boat is 15 years old and has a second station tower that is raised and lowered frequently. My theory is that the controls are becoming damaged from regular up and down movement of the tower for trailering. Any ideas?

Thanks for any ideas,
Matt
Click to expand...
Part of the issue with window corrosion is the dissimilar metals of the aluminum windows and the stainless steel screws. On my 2520 XLD I removed the screws, added nylon washers under the screws, (to keep the dissimilar metals apart), and coated everything in Fluid Film... my boat is now seven years old and No corrosion... here is a short video explaining what I did...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRtKdSKOL1U

Also, I use MDR Metal polish on all the metals (MDR no longer available) but also keep all the metals coated in a variety of metal polishes...
 
5514matt":3jbrwacl said:
I’ve been out of commission for a while. I’m looking at getting my boat back up to standard.

One issue I have is pretty severe salt pitting on my window frames. I was thinking of priming and painting them. Any better ideas. If not what type of material should I use. I can’t really afford to replace them.

The other issue I have is, one of my engines, 225 Yamahas , are not going all the way into neutral. Mechanic cannot see a problem while on the trailer. The boat is 15 years old and has a second station tower that is raised and lowered frequently. My theory is that the controls are becoming damaged from regular up and down movement of the tower for trailering. Any ideas?

Thanks for any ideas,
Matt
Click to expand...

One more thought... The aluminum on DSG and other brand boat windows are 'anodized' aluminum. One issue is that if you start with anodized aluminum stock, then 'bend' it into shape, you ruin the anodizing where the aluminum is formed bent/formed... It would be better if the window manufacturers would anodize the aluminum window frames AFTER the aluminum is formed/bent, then the anodizing would still be 'anodized'... meaning corrosion-resistant.
 
Matt, try disconnecting your cables at the engine and move shift lever while spinning prop with your foot. This will tell you whether its in the engine or your cables.
If in the cables, disconnect from one station at a time to isolate.
Ask me how I know...
 
I don't think the problem with DSG windows is dissimilar metals, it's them in water. If you look in the tracks they collect water & it pools. I don't think the 2 drain holes should be there, it's the rake of the window they let water in.
 
052520":slqpbzhy said:
I don't think the problem with DSG windows is dissimilar metals, it's them in water. If you look in the tracks they collect water & it pools. I don't think the 2 drain holes should be there, it's the rake of the window they let water in.
Click to expand...

I believe the issues with window corrosion is multiple items. One, being lack of maintenance on some of the original owners, but imho a big issue with DSG and Taylor Made products corrosion is that they buy 'anodized' aluminum stock, and it is NOT the best grade of anodized aluminum. On top of that, they manufacture/bend/form the windows with the stock materials. This destroys the benefit of the anodizing. My last boat, (I bought it new) built in 1986, was a 35' CT. It has 17 Gebo aluminum windows/ports. Even to this day, they look NEW! I owned the boat for 28 years; kept them clean and applied MDR metal wax annually (most any metal wax would work as well). I believe the problem with DSG and Taylor Made and other 'marine' products oxidizing is how they are made, and allowing two dissimilar metals to touch (think 'battery'). The Gebos I had on the previous boat, with aluminum windows/ports, had high quality aluminum screws and fasteners. And Gebo did everything top quality. I have 'repaired' corroded aluminum windows in a previous boat by removing them. Sanding, bronze-wooling, and grinding away the corrosion, priming then painting. How much you should do depends on how bad they a have gotten. The DSG windows (front) and Taylor Made (side and back) on my 2013 Parker 2520 XLD look like new. I posted 100+ videos on Youtube that show this to be accurate. (Youtube; Andrew F Yakim).
Here is a link to Gebo.
https://www.gebomarineglazing.nl/en/
 
Thanks for the ideas. Sure hope I don’t need those cables replaced. They are a beast to run. It was hard just to get power cables for electronics up there.

As far as the windows, the pitting is bad. No doubt to early neglect. Trying to think of a good way to coat and color them. Will good spray primer stick. I was thinking the same type of primer used for lower units???
 
finally Fixed the shift issue. my upper station shift was bad. Unfortunately, the shift system, as many here are aware, is no longer made or supported. I had to dish out a ton of cash for the SeaStar i7700 shift system. Hope to have it in the water next weekend. While on the trailer, it seems like an awesome upgrade.

if anyone is having problems with their power trek/marinetek shift and throttle control system, I have the parts from my old one. The system is complete. Could possibly be missing a wire or so, but i think I got them all. We are pretty sure that the only faulty part of the system is the potentiometers on the second station controls. The main helm controls, computer and actuators seem to be working fine, since I had full operation capabilities from the main hellm. It would be a decent investment for someone who just needs parts. If I could have found a parts source, I would be several thousand dollars richer today. I am in northern Virginia and can be reached at 703-599-6854.

Abour the pitting in my windows, anybody know if removing, sanding and powder coating would be a good idea? How hard are they to remove. Will powder coat ho;d up? This is the front upward opening windows with the gas shocks. (now they have hole and pins to stay open)
 
Am thinking of removing mine and having them powdercoated white.
 
I took my windshields out several years ago and had them powdercoated. I then resealed with new screws, cylinders and latches. They are great now. Next, I will remove and powder coat the side sliders.
 
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