Anchor box thru Hull drain! Not into bilge.....

[wharf rat]

I have a 2520. I want my bilge dry! Unfortunately, rain and rinse down water enters my anchor box. A parker blunder in my opinion.

Has anybody rerouted the drain thru the hull? If so send me pictures.

Ej

 

[afitzray]

Discussed in this thread, and then at the end there is a link to someone's project info doing the rerouting you're thinking about:

https://www.classicparker.com/threads/anchor-locker-drain.5496/#post-141828

 

[Andy]

I have a 2520. I want my bilge dry! Unfortunately, rain and rinse down water enters my anchor box. A parker blunder in my opinion.

Has anybody rerouted the drain thru the hull? If so send me pictures.

Ej

Hi Warf Rat, the issue of the anchor-locker draining water all the way through the boat, has been a subject here a number of times. It would be an easy fix for Parker (and other boat-manufacturers) while the boats are being built. In the mean time, the issue is raising the 'floor' of the anchor-locker sufficiently high enough so when an 'angled' hole is drilled through the hull (with clam-shell protector on the outside) you are letting water out, and not bringing water in. If a hole were drilled at the bottom of the anchor locker (at least so on a 2013 2520) it would be below the water-line of the boat.

 

[MartyL]

https://www.classicparker.com/threads/anchor-locker-drain.5496/#post-144279

 

[wharf rat]

How is the floor of the anchor box normally raised. I was considering spray foam.
Ej

 

[knotflying]

How is the floor of the anchor box normally raised. I was considering spray foam.
Ej

I would cut a piece of starboard to fit exactly tight at a higher point above the water line. I would then caulk it in with 5200. The hard part will be getting a tight fit. Perhaps make a template using cardboard.

 

[baker]

Eventually a CP member will document and show detail photos of this task at each step. It maybe me, when I get to it next January.
I can't decide on using the brass sleeve with a SS clam shell, or the SS hooded drain

 

[Andy]

Eventually a CP member will document and show detail photos of this task at each step. It maybe me, when I get to it next January.
I can't decide on using the brass sleeve with a SS clam shell, or the SS hooded drain
View attachment 30302

I'd use a smaller hole. With the hole drilled, canted down and aft. And a clamshell cover, opening to stern/aft. At least that is what worked great on my last boats, for over 30 years....

 

[baker]

I'd use a smaller hole. With the hole drilled, canted down and aft. And a clamshell cover, opening to stern/aft. At least that is what worked great on my last boats, for over 30 years....

What size hole are you referring to and how do you drill at a downward and aft angle? If your thinking not to use a sleeve, then the exposed glass will need to be sealed with epoxy. The diameter for this device is about 1-inch. The sleeve is threaded plastic and the outer hood, or clamshell is 316 stainless steel.

 

[Andy]

What size hole are you referring to and how do you drill at a downward and aft angle? If your thinking not to use a sleeve, then the exposed glass will need to be sealed with epoxy. The diameter for this device is about 1-inch. The sleeve is threaded plastic and the outer hood, or clamshell is 316 stainless steel.

Hi Baker, On our last boat, there was no device used except for the S/S clamshell-cover on the outside. (To deflect the bow-wave water away from the hole). I don't have access to that boat now (sorry, it left NC about 4 months ago for a year-long+ cruise/Great-Loop).
The best I remember, the hole was about 3/8" in diameter and had a copper tube, form-fitted and flared on both the inside and outside; it was likely epoxied in place, but I don't know for sure.
I don't know how they drilled the hole, but I would guess they used a 'jig' that accommodated the angles; and it was likely drilled from the outside-to-inside. (Careful measurements). (One of my buddies has a portable 'jig' that accommodates drilling angles, using a standard hand-drill; I've seen them for sale at specialty tool companies)...
The bow on that boat was/is solid fiberglass; no coring. So I don't know if the sleeve was necessary; could have just epoxied...
On our boat before that one, there was just a hole; again about 3/8" best I remember. There was no sleeve and the there was no Clamshell cover. Using a small artist brush, I 'painted' the hole with West System epoxy, and added my own Clamshell-cover....

Somehow I messed up this response?! I don't know how I posted/responded in the wrong place! .... I meant to add; The boats I'm referring to were built in 1982, and the other in 1986. I don't remember that using 'store-bought' drain devices were common back then... The device in your pictures looks good to me; except I'm not sure about the plastic sleeve; it looks 'threaded', so that, along with epoxy looks like a good solution.