Battery Charger

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I'm looking to install battery charger for 2022 21SE. I don't have a trolling motor at this time but I guess I'll be getting one. I say guess because I really don't want to mount on on the bow but as I fish a lot out of Keaton Beach (Steinhatchie) Florida in the Gulf it's sort of a must. I just like the bow Gunnels open and uncluttered but what are you gonna do :)

Anyway, any advice of chargers would be much appreciated
 

warthog5

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Your question is not clear......How many batteries do you want to Charge?

Do you want to charge 3- 12V for a TM..........Do You want to Charge Both of the boats operating batteries? 2- Starting Batteries ?

Either way.......Noco Genius Gen Pro 10......in the # of batteries....If it's 5 batteries.....A 3 bank and a 2 bank unit.

The 10 is 10amps per bank.....It will give you the fastest charge and be ready in the morning for the next days events.

 

pelagic2530

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I tend to disagree with Warthog on brand preference, but agree in concept.

You’re going to need two chargers. Do yourself a favor, install a two bank charger now for your start/house batteries (or port/stbd batteries if you haven’t yet upgraded to a switch that separates your start and house circuits) and install another one later when you decide to do your TM install. A 21’ is going to need a 36v system, so you’ll either need to charge three traditional batteries or one lithium ion battery. Either way, the same charger that charges your normal batteries won’t work to charge the TM batteries, either because it’s too many batteries or because it needs a dedicated lithium battery charger.

I prefer to use the ProMariner ProSport HD series of chargers.
 

Bmoore

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Minn Kota 3 bank charger is what I had on my last boat, but other brands may be cheaper and fine as well. I would recommend the 87” Min Kota Riptide Terrova 112lb thrust 36 volt. I had a 72” and it would cavitate some in a little swell. For my Parker 23SE I am going to go with the 87”. I also hate having to put a trolling motor on that clean bow, but they are absolute game changers for the way I like to fish. The spot lock feature is incredible. I like to meter around looking for bottom structure and spot lock is so much easier than dropping anchor and trying to scope back. I think its worth the clutter.
 
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I tend to disagree with Warthog on brand preference, but agree in concept.

You’re going to need two chargers. Do yourself a favor, install a two bank charger now for your start/house batteries (or port/stbd batteries if you haven’t yet upgraded to a switch that separates your start and house circuits) and install another one later when you decide to do your TM install. A 21’ is going to need a 36v system, so you’ll either need to charge three traditional batteries or one lithium ion battery. Either way, the same charger that charges your normal batteries won’t work to charge the TM batteries, either because it’s too many batteries or because it needs a dedicated lithium battery charger.

I prefer to use the ProMariner ProSport HD series of chargers.
The ProMariner ProSprot is what I have been leaning to but like the NOCO Genius as well. I am curious about the 36V system. I have two sets of batteries, I guess that would be a start battery and a house battery. Each set contains two 12V jars wired in parallel. So I'm look at the 12V/24V Two Bank system. Is this not correct? I work with UPSs and typically the full battery bank is connected to charge.

1668077970056.png
 

warthog5

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The ProMariner ProSprot is what I have been leaning to but like the NOCO Genius as well. I am curious about the 36V system. I have two sets of batteries, I guess that would be a start battery and a house battery. Each set contains two 12V jars wired in parallel. So I'm look at the 12V/24V Two Bank system. Is this not correct? I work with UPSs and typically the full battery bank is connected to charge


Not fully understanding what your asking?

If you have a Perko switch.....You do not have a dedicated START / HOUSE batteries.
Perko = OFF / 1 /2/ All

Each set contains two 12V jars wired in parallel

No clue what that is ?
 
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Not fully understanding what your asking?

If you have a Perko switch.....You do not have a dedicated START / HOUSE batteries.
Perko = OFF / 1 /2/ All



No clue what that is ?
Sorry, Jar = Battery case containing cells. We call that a Jar but it's a slang term. So I have 4 batteries in all, two for each string and each string of two is wired in parallelly. So the voltage is equal to the value of either battery, 12V, with the AH equaling the sum of the two batteries.

Yes, the switch is OFF / BATT #1 / ALL / BATT #2

The information on line, for teh ProSport seems to indicate that each battery (Jar) is connected individually in a string rather than connecting the full string. This just seems odd and different than any other charger I've connected to UPS or Generator.
 

yeosu parker

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시동밧데리100암페어 1개, 하우스밧데리 100암페어 2개(병렬연결), 하우스밧데리 200암페어 1개(총 하우스밧데리 400암페어)

가이드모터 밧데리 36볼트 120암페어 1개 입니다.

저는충전시스템이 태양열과 외부 전원 그리고 휴대용 발전기를 사용하여 충전하고 있습니다.

필요하시면 사진 촬영해서 올려드릴께요
 

yeosu parker

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시동밧데리100암페어 1개, 하우스밧데리 100암페어 2개(병렬연결), 하우스밧데리 200암페어 1개(총 하우스밧데리 400암페어)

가이드모터 밧데리 36볼트 120암페어 1개 입니다.

저는충전시스템이 태양열과 외부 전원 그리고 휴대용 발전기를 사용하여 충전하고 있습니다.

필요하시면 사진 촬영해서 올려드릴께요
저의 보트는 선실 냉장고와 감시용 카메라가 항상 가동 되기 때문에 밧데리 스위치가 있으며, 그 스위치는 사용하지 않습니다.
 

rseate

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Sorry, Jar = Battery case containing cells. We call that a Jar but it's a slang term. So I have 4 batteries in all, two for each string and each string of two is wired in parallelly. So the voltage is equal to the value of either battery, 12V, with the AH equaling the sum of the two batteries.

Yes, the switch is OFF / BATT #1 / ALL / BATT #2

The information on line, for teh ProSport seems to indicate that each battery (Jar) is connected individually in a string rather than connecting the full string. This just seems odd and different than any other charger I've connected to UPS or Generator.

Let’s try to simplify:
I’m guessing you currently have 2 twelve volt batteries (1 for the engine, 1 for the house).
The Perko switch is 1, 2, All. This lets you select between the 2 batteries. The Perko doesn’t separate the batteries like a BEP (the BEP is what you should install).
For your trolling motor you’ll need either 3 twelve batteries or a single 36v lithium ion battery. While many aren’t fans of the lithium batteries I love mine. Yes it was expensive but I only have a single battery to charge and it only weighs 56 pounds.
As far as chargers, I don’t even have one in my boat for the house & engine battery. My boat will sit unused for 3-4 weeks at a time and I’ve not had any issues. Not saying I shouldn’t add one.
If you go lithium on the trolling battery, it will require its own dedicated charger.
 

warthog5

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Rseate..... Those have been my results also.

RiffWillie..... Yes the batteries are charged individually. Look at any Marine Onboard charger schematic.
 

pelagic2530

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Sorry, Jar = Battery case containing cells. We call that a Jar but it's a slang term. So I have 4 batteries in all, two for each string and each string of two is wired in parallelly. So the voltage is equal to the value of either battery, 12V, with the AH equaling the sum of the two batteries.

Yes, the switch is OFF / BATT #1 / ALL / BATT #2

The information on line, for teh ProSport seems to indicate that each battery (Jar) is connected individually in a string rather than connecting the full string. This just seems odd and different than any other charger I've connected to UPS or Generator.

Ok. So as I understand it, you currently have four batteries, arranged into two banks of two batteries each wired in parallel, connected to a factory 1-2-Both-Off switch as bank 1 and bank 2. That correct?

If so, you should do a bit deeper dive into why your setup is arranged like that. Because there’s probably no reason to be lugging around that many batteries.

First things first: you need to separate your house and starting circuits. They require different batteries for different purposes. It’s possible that at some point, it was determined that the boat needed “more battery power” and so both banks 1 and 2 (as arranged from the factory) were upgraded with an additional battery to provide that capacity in both switch positions. If your circuits are properly separated, that’s not necessary. Here’s how:

Your engine most likely requires a GP24, at most a GP27 cranking battery per the manufacturer’s CCA requirements. Check your engine manual if you’re not sure. Certainly no reason to need paralleled 12v batteries there. One battery will do just fine.

Unless your house electrical loads are unusually high for the way you use your boat, a good deep cycle GP31 should give you all the power you need for your lights, pumps, electronics, etc. That may require a bit of load calculation; it’s possible that you may need a paralleled bank for the house power if your load is for some reason extremely large (big stereo amp, inverter, electric reels, etc.). Regardless, at the most you might need two batteries in parallel (or one big one) for just this bank; but it’s likely that one reasonably sized battery will suffice.

Rearranging those circuits gets you into the realm of needing either a two-bank or three-bank charger. With the BEP switch, most of your battery charging will be taken care of by the engine alternator; the charger mostly functions to top the batteries off that last little bit that the alternator won’t do effectively and to serve as a trickle charger/maintainer during longer periods between use. Therefore, a 8-12A charger is likely all you need.

As said above, either way, your TM battery bank of one lithium or three lead acid batteries will needs its own dedicated charger. Each LA battery should be charged individually; it keeps each one at a better state of charge and the charger’s internal computer will monitor the batteries individually for any faults. There’s no shortage of three bank chargers on the market for this application. I’d suggest the 20A three-bank ProMariner model for quicker charging time if you decide to go that route.
 

warthog5

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Well said Pelagic.

In my case... I had a Gp27 Start battery.... [300 Suzzy] it was overkill. A Gp24 would have done the job....In Start batteries I look for a 800CCA unit.

For the House, I had a singe D4 Deep Cycle...This is = to 2 1/2 Gp27's.
I had this because my son wanted a amp....So a heavy load with engine off sitting on the beach.

These were both run threw a Single engine BEP Cluster.

As a side note;.....The boat had a windless on it also....It was wired to the Start battery.... Why is That?

Because a Windless is not supposed to be used to drag the boat around.....Just retrieve the Ground Tackle........So....The engine is running when the windless is engaged.....The engine is bumped in & out of gear letting the windless catch up.
It's also providing 13+ volts to the windless, as the engine is running and alt charging at the same time.
 

pelagic2530

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Well said Pelagic.

In my case... I had a Gp27 Start battery.... [300 Suzzy] it was overkill. A Gp24 would have done the job....In Start batteries I look for a 800CCA unit.

For the House, I had a singe D4 Deep Cycle...This is = to 2 1/2 Gp27's.
I had this because my son wanted a amp....So a heavy load with engine off sitting on the beach.

These were both run threw a Single engine BEP Cluster.

As a side note;.....The boat had a windless on it also....It was wired to the Start battery.... Why is That?

Because a Windless is not supposed to be used to drag the boat around.....Just retrieve the Ground Tackle........So....The engine is running when the windless is engaged.....The engine is bumped in & out of gear letting the windless catch up.
It's also providing 13+ volts to the windless, as the engine is running and alt charging at the same time.

Interesting note on the CCA requirements… my new Yamaha F150s call for 1000CCA batteries. Why I can’t imagine, but I couldn’t find ones that met that spec in a GP24 AGM. So I ended up installing two Lifeline GP27s instead.

As far as the windlasses go, I agree completely in how you wire them, and do the same myself. I continue to be amazed by how I find some windlass installations to be wired- working on a boat now that had 10AWG wire feeding the windlass from the stern to the bow! Can’t imagine what the voltage drop looked like on that one…
 

warthog5

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my new Yamaha F150s call for 1000CCA batteries

Double check that in the manual.......CCA....... or MCA ?

I dissreguard MCA. It's because all my life my head has bee wrapped around CCA.

Then the Marine industry decides to throw a new designation of MCA.

CCA =measured @ 0 deg F.

MCA = measured @ 32 deg F.

I also find a 800CCA is pretty damn close to a 1000MCA

Going farther...Obviously 1000 sounds better than 800 and I guess they figure no one will be boating @ 0deg F.

While that is probably true.....I go back to CCA and reject MCA so the playing field is Apples to Apples and not Apples to Oranges.....Just helps me keep battery rating straight in my head.
 
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시동밧데리100암페어 1개, 하우스밧데리 100암페어 2개(병렬연결), 하우스밧데리 200암페어 1개(총 하우스밧데리 400암페어)

가이드모터 밧데리 36볼트 120암페어 1개 입니다.

저는충전시스템이 태양열과 외부 전원 그리고 휴대용 발전기를 사용하여 충전하고 있습니다.

필요하시면 사진 촬영해서 올려드릴께요
Yes a picture would be great
 
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Let’s try to simplify:
I’m guessing you currently have 2 twelve volt batteries (1 for the engine, 1 for the house).
The Perko switch is 1, 2, All. This lets you select between the 2 batteries. The Perko doesn’t separate the batteries like a BEP (the BEP is what you should install).
For your trolling motor you’ll need either 3 twelve batteries or a single 36v lithium ion battery. While many aren’t fans of the lithium batteries I love mine. Yes it was expensive but I only have a single battery to charge and it only weighs 56 pounds.
As far as chargers, I don’t even have one in my boat for the house & engine battery. My boat will sit unused for 3-4 weeks at a time and I’ve not had any issues. Not saying I shouldn’t add one.
If you go lithium on the trolling battery, it will require its own dedicated charger.
I need to trace the wiring. However, moving the selector switch to either setting #1 or Setting #2 will both start the battery and run the house lights and accessories. I assume by House and Engine this means using one while running and transferring to the other while just operating in order to save the Engine battery to ensure ability to start engine?
Thanks for input !!
 
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