UPDATE:
So it turns out that I have the yamaha isolator aux system installed and working. This was easy to identify since someone placed a nice label next to the 100a breaker switch which says "isolator".
In my brief time researching this, it appears that this system is about equivalent to the BEP system. So why would I change this current system to install a BEP cluster, which would require abandoning the isolator aux?
Hi Baker, Could you please post a picture of your labeled Yamaha isolator aux system?
I've been reading all these posts very carefully, (Perko/Guest/BEP discussions) but have kept out of the conversation because I don't understand it;
I don't understand it as it relates to our Parker.
What you mentioned does make sense to me.... With our Guest switch on either #1 or #2, with the engine running, the other battery (both batteries) are still receiving charge; 14.1 to 14.5 Volts. (Measured with Fluke Volt/Ohm multi-meter)... With the engine off, and using DC power to run electronics for multiple hours at anchor, (4, 6 or 12+ hours, even overnight) or just drifting for half a day, the battery I selected will occasionally weaken to near 12.0-12.2 V (again, tested with Fluke multi-meter)..... But the 'saved/reserved' battery will still be strong (around 12.7 V static), meaning, the strong battery is not being weakened/drained by the weak/drained battery through the Guest switch. What I'm experiencing, is all I would expect from any battery-switch-system...
Is what I describe here; what we experience on our boat, not the norm? If not, why do the Perko Guest battery switches even have a #1 and #2 setting? If not to create the situation I have, there would be no use to have a #1 and #2 setting. It seems from what I've been reading, that other people with Perko or Guest battery switches are not experiencing what I do, and from your post, what you are experiencing....