As far as I can tell, the difference between the two models you posted is that one is fully remotely operated, by a panel mounted at the helm station. The other only has the VSR/parallel switch remotely operated. Both are probably overkill for a typical Parker installation, unless your battery switches are mounted somewhere that’s pretty hard to access.
Thanks for the replies.
I’m not super familiar with the particulars of aux charging cables. But as far as I do understand it, the aux cable is simply another line coming off the engine’s alternator. Both are coming from the same source of power; they simply divide the output of the alternator between two cables. Therefore, they don’t give you any more charging CAPACITY, just another connection.
Hi Baker, Could you please post a picture of your labeled Yamaha isolator aux system?
Thank you Warthog; I'm 'starting' to get a better understanding... (old dog, new tricks thing?)
Andy - I think we have the same setup from what you described. You must have the isolator aux too. You (and I) have simply two batteries on board in a one battery system. There is nothing wrong with this, if it is wired correctly. Think of the other battery just as the back up. There is no reason to switch or alternate from #1 to #2 on the way out and in, or use #1 battery on odd days and #2 on even days. That is pure nonsense. Also, the battery switch should never be put in the combined positioned, only as an absolute last resort, ie. if either either battery doesn't start the engine. I will post some pictures and maybe a youtube video this weekend.
I'm no expert in electrical or electronics, but If the the electronics spike and/or shut off when you start the motor, the boat is just not wired correctly. I believe it mostly has to do with the grounds and/or the negatives.
Andy - with older electronics and the way boats were (or even some today) wired, today you shouldn't need to power off the electronics before starting or stoping the engine. What happens when you use your windlas? Do the electronics flicker or shut off?
Thank you! (if you do the video, please link it so we can see it... Or, am I already 'subscribed' to your Youtube channel?
Thank you once again! I'm sure you are correct about my old habit with the power off/on of electronics. And it is just that; an old habit!
. It's something we were taught by Capt. Bill Brogden (the US Coast Guard captain who was responsible for developing the LORAN system). He taught that in some classes/programs as a means to prevent the possibility of 'spiking' the electronics. It may have been helpful way back then. I was not in USCG, I just attended his classes, and have his books, via the US Power Squadrons. It's an just old habit on my part....Hi I also had problems with the battery switch in the bilge and have a rear seat on my 25se. I moved the switch to the glove compartment on the center console and the batteries to the center console no more lying down on the deck to turn the battery off and moving the batteries helped the ride also
It is advisable to switch between positions #1 and #2 periodically. This is to keep the usage on the batteries roughly equal. Batteries are a electrochemical system and degrade with use. Since the system as you describe it has one battery (either #1 or #2) both cranking the motor and powering the electronics, if you're always using either #1 or #2, that battery is going to see all of the electrical load on the boat and therefore will degrade faster. While the other battery will never see any load at all.
The reason that the electronics "spike" or shut off when powered by the same battery as the motor is due to the variance in voltage. When the battery cranks the motor, a large amperage is drawn out of the battery, which depending on the size and the health of the battery may cause a momentary voltage drop. Electronics are very sensitive to voltage and want clean, steady power. If the voltage drop is pronounced enough, any electronics that are running may shut down. Similarly, once the engine starts and the alternator starts to provide power, the electronics may see a quick "spike" from the low voltage during starting to the high voltage being put out by the alternator. Neither of these are good for the electronics, and may over time (or quickly) damage them. In any event performance will not be ideal. Modern sophisticated electronics are just as, if not more voltage sensitive than legacy units.
Hi pelagic, I totally agree, and I do as you suggested. On my last boat I got 9+ years out of the 4-D's (had it for 28 years); and replaced the batteries only twice in those 28 years; wet-cells; easy to maintain and easy to check the specific-gravity). On our Parker I just replaced the batteries last year (unnecessarily). I was going through other issues that Warthog helped me diagnose, and I first replaced the batteries as someone else suggested; the batteries I replaced were still good; very good.
