BEP Cluster

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baker

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What is the difference between the 80-716-0017-00 and the 80-716-0014-00?
Has anyone installed a BEP Battery Control Center?

Currently I have the standard Parker factory install 2 battery system with Perko switch in aft bilge.
 

12Parker2320

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I’ve been considering the same thing so I can really isolate the batteries. I’d like to have a true start and house battery
 

shawnee83

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This is the one you want.
The 716-SQ-140A-DVSR is an ideal replacement for a battery selector switch. Just remove the selector switch and connect the existing wires to a 716 cluster, no extra wires are required for a fully automatic battery management system. To be used in single Outboard dual battery bank or single alternator Inboard engine dual battery bank.
 

pelagic2530

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What is the difference between the 80-716-0017-00 and the 80-716-0014-00?
Has anyone installed a BEP Battery Control Center?

Currently I have the standard Parker factory install 2 battery system with Perko switch in aft bilge.
As far as I can tell, the difference between the two models you posted is that one is fully remotely operated, by a panel mounted at the helm station. The other only has the VSR/parallel switch remotely operated. Both are probably overkill for a typical Parker installation, unless your battery switches are mounted somewhere that’s pretty hard to access.

The one most often used on here is the one listed by Shawnee above, or it’s horizontal equivalent (716-H-140A-DVSR). They offer the same features (dedicated house/start batteries, emergency parallel, and a VSR that charged your start battery first) but are much less expensive and simpler to install. Unless you really need to control your batteries from the helm station, vice just reaching into the bilge, I’d stay away from the remote switches and control panels.
 

baker

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As far as I can tell, the difference between the two models you posted is that one is fully remotely operated, by a panel mounted at the helm station. The other only has the VSR/parallel switch remotely operated. Both are probably overkill for a typical Parker installation, unless your battery switches are mounted somewhere that’s pretty hard to access.

The one most often used on here is the one listed by Shawnee above, or it’s horizontal equivalent (716-H-140A-DVSR). They offer the same features (dedicated house/start batteries, emergency parallel, and a VSR that charged your start battery first) but are much less expensive and simpler to install. Unless you really need to control your batteries from the helm station, vice just reaching into the bilge, I’d stay away from the remote switches and control panels.
Thanks for the replies.
I'm familiar with that BEP cluster model, as there was one installed on a previous boat that I owned that only had the single charge coming from the motor. That setup seemed to work just fine for a 2-battery (starting/house) battery arrangement.
However, another recent post thread on here has me wondering about the possibility of an aux charge from the motor. I will have to check this out this weekend by staring into the aft bilge awhile and tracing wire, etc. I'll report back my findings and go from there.
 

pelagic2530

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Thanks for the replies.
I'm familiar with that BEP cluster model, as there was one installed on a previous boat that I owned that only had the single charge coming from the motor. That setup seemed to work just fine for a 2-battery (starting/house) battery arrangement.
However, another recent post thread on here has me wondering about the possibility of an aux charge from the motor. I will have to check this out this weekend by staring into the aft bilge awhile and tracing wire, etc. I'll report back my findings and go from there.
I’m not super familiar with the particulars of aux charging cables. But as far as I do understand it, the aux cable is simply another line coming off the engine’s alternator. Both are coming from the same source of power; they simply divide the output of the alternator between two cables. Therefore, they don’t give you any more charging CAPACITY, just another connection.

In the case of the DVSR-equipped BEP clusters, the power coming from the single alternator output (the engine cable) is automatically distributed to both batteries, making sure that the start battery is charged first. In that way, the BEP cluster eliminates the need for the aux charging cable, so long as all your batteries are connected to the BEP switch.

@warthog5 would likely be able to clarify or confirm this as he has a much more in-depth knowledge of these systems than do I.
 

warthog5

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Between this on Square Battery Distribution Cluster for Single Engine with Two Battery Banks | BEP

and This one Battery Distribution Cluster for Twin Outboard Engine with Three Battery Banks | BEP

I've installed over 50 of them.

Look at the schematic.
https://www.bepmarine.com/en/~/media/inriver/327549-18219.pdf

NOTE: the Optional Fuses.

The one between the BEP and House battery is omitted.

The one between the BEP and the switch panel is not a Fuse, but rather a 40amp surface mount Circuit Breaker within aprox 6in to 12in of the BEP
 

baker

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UPDATE:
So it turns out that I have the yamaha isolator aux system installed and working. This was easy to identify since someone placed a nice label next to the 100a breaker switch which says "isolator".
In my brief time researching this, it appears that this system is about equivalent to the BEP system. So why would I change this current system to install a BEP cluster, which would require abandoning the isolator aux?
 

Andy

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UPDATE:
So it turns out that I have the yamaha isolator aux system installed and working. This was easy to identify since someone placed a nice label next to the 100a breaker switch which says "isolator".
In my brief time researching this, it appears that this system is about equivalent to the BEP system. So why would I change this current system to install a BEP cluster, which would require abandoning the isolator aux?
Hi Baker, Could you please post a picture of your labeled Yamaha isolator aux system?
I've been reading all these posts very carefully, (Perko/Guest/BEP discussions) but have kept out of the conversation because I don't understand it; I don't understand it as it relates to our Parker.
What you mentioned does make sense to me.... With our Guest switch on either #1 or #2, with the engine running, the other battery (both batteries) are still receiving charge; 14.1 to 14.5 Volts. (Measured with Fluke Volt/Ohm multi-meter)... With the engine off, and using DC power to run electronics for multiple hours at anchor, (4, 6 or 12+ hours, even overnight) or just drifting for half a day, the battery I selected will occasionally weaken to near 12.0-12.2 V (again, tested with Fluke multi-meter)..... But the 'saved/reserved' battery will still be strong (around 12.7 V static), meaning, the strong battery is not being weakened/drained by the weak/drained battery through the Guest switch. What I'm experiencing, is all I would expect from any battery-switch-system...
Is what I describe here; what we experience on our boat, not the norm? If not, why do the Perko Guest battery switches even have a #1 and #2 setting? If not to create the situation I have, there would be no use to have a #1 and #2 setting. It seems from what I've been reading, that other people with Perko or Guest battery switches are not experiencing what I do, and from your post, what you are experiencing....
 
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