Best polish and wax for a older 2006 Parker

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have an 04 i used a restore/cleaner wax at the beginning of the year. It didn't hold up. I hit it 2 weeks ago with this type compound. 3M light polish+wax , and than 3M wax. Hull looks brand new. Going to work on the topside in the next week or so (I work at a dealership, so when I say it looks new it looks pretty damn good. Parkers gel can be hard to tell without a sharp eye)

The pics are test fitting a t-top 1 week before my detail.
 

Attachments

  • 20210115_121826.jpg
    20210115_121826.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 44
  • 20210117_135213.jpg
    20210117_135213.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 53
  • 20210116_151524.jpg
    20210116_151524.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 52
Quick note, I used acid after doing one side to get rid of the scum line. Even heavy compound was taking 3 passes. I used on/off by hand with a rag on the other side and it was a 1 pass deal. Saved a few hours atleast.
 
That's impressive if that was 3Ms light compound with wax. I got most of the heavy stuff off mine last year with 3M all in one which wasn't great. Switched the Meg's Ultimate Compound then followed with the 3M all in one. Was thinking of starting from scratch this year and doing 3M Heavy followed my 3M light with Wax. May just try the 3M light if it did that good on yours.
 
Gsully23 said:
Quick note, I used acid after doing one side to get rid of the scum line. Even heavy compound was taking 3 passes. I used on/off by hand with a rag on the other side and it was a 1 pass deal. Saved a few hours atleast.
Click to expand...

What type of acid did you use? Also did you use the 3M Perfect it Gelcoat Light cutting polish and wax? I have used Shurhold buff magic in the past and may try something new.
 
Gsully23 said:
Quick note, I used acid after doing one side to get rid of the scum line. Even heavy compound was taking 3 passes. I used on/off by hand with a rag on the other side and it was a 1 pass deal. Saved a few hours atleast.
Click to expand...
I will try the On/Off you suggested; I've read others have had good luck with it.
In eastern NC and other coastal areas where there's 'dark-water' in some of rivers and creeks, the boat hulls will get stained brown from the tannic-acids in the water. Compounds, waxes and 'standard' hull cleaners will not remover the 'brown moustache', as it's called around here. But simple over-the-counter products like Whink Rust Stain Remover (comes in a small brown plastic bottle), Sno-Bowl toilet bowl cleaner or any other Hydrofluoric Acid-based cleaner will remove the stain with absolutely no effort. Squirt, wipe, or brush it on, and in a few minutes the tannic-acid-brown-moustache-stain will disappear in front of your eyes. No rubbing. No work. Now for the 'but'. But, it will also remove the wax..... I put over 300 hours a year on our different boats over the years; about half the time running in tannic-acid waters. The only boat I've owned that has not developed the brown moustache stain is our Parker. I attribute it to the Collonite 885 Heavy-Duty Fleet-wax. In the past 40+ years, and 5 boats, I have always had to deal with the 'brown-moustache'. Those boats were waxed with just about every different brand/product of wax, polish, and treatments available. So far, the Collonite Paste Wax is the only one that has not allowed the tannic-acid to stain the hull. I'm sure there may be other products that you all are using that might give the same results. I have not tried them all. Like Brent mentioned, I use up what I have, before I buy/try something new. In case someone asks, no, I do not own stock in or have financial interest in Collonite, I've just found that for me, with the type of gel-coat used by Parker, this has worked best for our use, and our local water conditions.
1611948118353.png
 
Last edited:
Rotary buffer if you need to remove heavy oxidation. An orbital will take 3 or 4 times longer to remove it. But be careful. The rotary can generate a lot of heat and damage the surface.
 
Oxalic acid is great stuff for removing stains (and wax). If you go this route, just be very careful around anything painted (motor cowlings, etc.) or galvanized (trailers) as this stuff is good at removing those coatings as well. By the way, this is a great thread - I'm learning all sorts of good stuff here that I plan to put to good use over the next few months.

Cap'n Dan
 
I bought a makita DA polisher and have been impressed with its power and ability to polish and do light compounding. It's a little pricey at $400 but I think it's well worth it on a 28 foot boat. makita-po5000c-5-dual-action-random-orbit-polisher-6_large.jpg
 
I have a Makita DA polisher also works great. Used it to detail my 2000 Sport Craft 252. Sold it for 8000.00 more than I paid for it. Now I'm a proud owner of a 2006 Parker 2120 SC. I also use it on my 1967 Pontiac Grand Prix convertible.
 
Navigator said:
I bought a makita DA polisher and have been impressed with its power and ability to polish and do light compounding. It's a little pricey at $400 but I think it's well worth it on a 28 foot boat. View attachment 27549
Click to expand...
Looks a lot like the Shurhold DAP Pro that I use. I think mine was closer to $300. Not sure what attachment the Makita uses; Shurhold uses a Velcro-based system that works with their foam compounding pads (and presumably others' as well). I've been super pleased with this type of tool so far, way better than the normal random orbital buffer. Also much less likely to create scuffs and burns than some of the industrial rotary buffers.

Do your shoulders a favor and pick up one of these tools if you're going to tackle a big fiberglass reconditioning job!
 
GotChrist? said:
That's impressive if that was 3Ms light compound with wax. I got most of the heavy stuff off mine last year with 3M all in one which wasn't great. Switched the Meg's Ultimate Compound then followed with the 3M all in one. Was thinking of starting from scratch this year and doing 3M Heavy followed my 3M light with Wax. May just try the 3M light if it did that good on yours.
Click to expand...

No, that wasn't just the 3m gelcoat light plus wax.

I actually did a 3 step, I used the farecla #1 compound. Reason the canister is cut in half is because I was running low and I used a paint brush and brush some on and do 2 foot sections at a time (this was the time consuming part, but got all my deep scratches out for the most part). I then used the 3m gelcoat ight polish with wax, applied to one whole side of the boat with microfiber applicator pad. Than went back and removed in one pass with my buffer. I also then decided to just apply 3m perfect its step 3 boat wax the same wax. That 3m step 3 wax goes on super easier and comes off super easy.

The oxidation was so bad, I can almost guarantee the boat had never had a proper wax/detail since it was bought new in 04. Now, the gel looks just as good as our brand new boats on the lot. I have yet to conquer the topside....waiting for a weekened I don't have a boat in the shop bay
 
Everyone has good ideas and things that have worked for them. I restored my 2006 to near new condition last year and it was easier after understanding the process and using good products. I learned alot of great tips from a detailer on youtube who was honest and informative. I’ll try to give link below. Basics are as follows:
1. For a 2006 boat you need a 3 step process- cut( compound), shine(polish), wax.

2. Use a quality lambswool pad on whatever rotary polisher you select to cut properly- not crap foam pads.

2A. Only use a quarter size dab of product(compound, polish, or wax) at a time for each section.

2C. Fluff up lambswool pad by holding a flat head screwdriver or can opener against it while running now and then to keep from matting.

3. Do a 3-4 foot section at a time. Wipe clean and proceed to next section. Doing longer sections allows too much drying and its too much work to remove.

Watch how easy it can be as shown by guy in video. Trust me- I watched every youtube detailing video during pandemic shutdown!

4. I ordered and used Presta products as described in video. Now my neighbors do too!

5. I also bought a smaller chargeable polisher for inside boat- much easier to work with than big one and easy to use dockside as needed.

6. I used a rubber wheel attachment on my drill and removed all boat decals and numbers. Purchased new Parker stickers and reapplied.

7. Also compounded nonskid deck with rotary medium brush attachment, then applied regular wax- does not make it slippery. A breeze to rinse blood/ dirt for a month or so after. Can repeat wax step.A59978D4-EE06-447A-8254-EBAA9EE51BA6.jpegD3E25DF5-DF05-4179-92E4-72A1BEA14C17.jpeg
 
Last edited:


I also wiped the hull with acetone( wear gloves!) between each step to rem all residue.
Overall it was a good experience. The Presta products I got online. I have used the 3M before but it was a biotch to apply and remove.
As the last picture shows- I achieved a glass like appearance even with BAD shoulders.

I bought a less expensive multispeed polisher in Harbor Freight and its working just fine for past 5 years. Makita and Dewalt sell some for much more if you think you need that level. Tried my neighbors top of the line Porter-Cable polisher- it was way too heavy for my shoulders.

Because of my lousy shoulders the nice guy in the video advised on a different wax that was easier to remove and UV resistant.689FEFF4-4786-4C58-9766-E1D520FE3779.pngBEABE8C8-65AD-4FEC-84AB-FE4DA1D8CB29.jpeg906AE256-7F97-4BB7-BFA2-7A53C7EB4D1E.jpeg
 
Last edited:
saltydoc said:


I also wiped the hull with acetone( wear gloves!) between each step to rem all residue.
Overall it was a good experience. The Presta products I got online. I have used the 3M before but it was a biotch to apply and remove.
As the last picture shows- I achieved a glass like appearance even with BAD shoulders.

I bought a less expensive multispeed polisher in Harbor Freight and its working just fine for past 5 years. Makita and Dewalt sell some for much more if you think you need that level. Tried my neighbors top of the line Porter-Cable polisher- it was way too heavy for my shoulders.

Because of my lousy shoulders the nice guy in the video advised on a different wax that was easier to remove and UV resistant.View attachment 27580View attachment 27581View attachment 27582
Click to expand...


Just note, acetone on the 04/06, maybe newer logos removes the color and stains the hull. I attempted the same with my hull but wasn't replacing decals so I just want to give a heads up.
 
Where do I start? Wow, the amount of feedback over this post is amazing. Thank you all for the responses! I have a good game plan to tackle the gel coat now.



Another question, has anyone found a good product and application to bring back the carpet walls and ceiling of a boat back? Take out stains and brown rust looking areas? A good carpet cleaner product to use?

Trying to make this old girl shine!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top