bonding system on Parker boats

[big_tuna]

Was having a discussion with my slip neighbor, a sailboat owner, and I was complaining about how there is superficial rust showing on my bow rail that I was polishing off and he asked if it was bonded. I didn't know the answer, and I don't think there is any bonding on any of the metals on a Parker? I have zinc anodes on my trim tabs, armstrong bracket, and yamaha, and they are not bonded to each other in any way, nonetheless bonded to any metal on the topside of the boat. Also, I think the thru hulls should be bonded as well, but they aren't.... Has anyone bonded these systems together?

Thanks

 

[BradH]

My 2012 21 SE has the fuel fill and fuel tank connected via green wire to battery negative, which is in turn connected to the engine negative (via the engines battery cables). So yes, it has a grounding system. The bronze through hull, tabs, swim platform stanchion, and underwater lights are not connected.

 

[afitzray]

Interesting question. And I never thought about it before, but I wonder how much the tank grounding wire can help with degradation of the tank while it's trapped in all that foam that has a tendency to get wet. I always thought of it more as a way to protect the fuel fill from static electricity shocks when filling, but maybe it helps the tank live longer also?

 

[Andy]

Was having a discussion with my slip neighbor, a sailboat owner, and I was complaining about how there is superficial rust showing on my bow rail that I was polishing off and he asked if it was bonded. I didn't know the answer, and I don't think there is any bonding on any of the metals on a Parker? I have zinc anodes on my trim tabs, armstrong bracket, and yamaha, and they are not bonded to each other in any way, nonetheless bonded to any metal on the topside of the boat. Also, I think the thru hulls should be bonded as well, but they aren't.... Has anyone bonded these systems together?

Thanks

Here's a good explanation about Bonding and/or Grounding;
https://abycinc.org/blogpost/1839308/339855/Is-It-Grounded-or-Bonded
If a boat is not docked in the water for months or more at a time, I'm not sure a bonding system is needed. Our last boat spent 28 years in the water 24/7/365 except for semi-annual haul-outs. It NEEDED a bonding system. It had 10 large, bronze, thru-hull sea-cocks and three bronze Groco strainer/sea-cocks. 9 of those were always under water, and they ALL were joined/bonded together by a huge/heavy (I don't remember the gauge; I'd guess 8 gauge) green bonding wire and even some copper straps. All were connected to the shaft stuffing box (packing gland) which was in turn connected to a large, double-bolted hull-plate sacrificial zinc anode.... The ABYC article explains the difference, between this and an electrical ground.

 

[knotflying]

A bonding system is definitely required if you connect to shore power. A Galvanic Isolator would also be a recommendation or a sacrificial zinc attached to the negative post of your battery. Basically when you create an electrical current between two dissimilar metals the weaker metal will deteriorate. Corrosion will also occur if two dissimilar metals are in contact with one another and get wet. So there are two different types of electrolysis taking place with a boat. Stainless steel rails above water that develop rust is related to oxidation not it is from the steel content in the stainless, not electrolysis. Here are two articles explaining the two I mentioned: Galvanic Isolator - Types of marine corrosion

 

[big_tuna]

hmm, okay, so I guess creating a bonding system on a Parker is not a common theme. I keep my boat in the water 9 months of the year hooked up to shore power to keep the batteries topped off. Occasionally I will drain the house battery on an overnight and it needs charging before my next trip out so I use a simple NOCO battery charger and leave it plugged in all the time all the time while at the slip. I wonder if I should be limiting my usage of the charger??? Otherwise I will need to create a bonding system?

PS, my shore power system consists of a marinco adapter plug to a regular extension cord which attaches to the NOCO charger...

 

[dcunniff]

Big-tuna, galvanic isolator will help shore power issues if you have problem boats around you too.

 

[knotflying]

Using a regular auto battery charger is probably the worst you could do. Your neighbors won't be happy either. A marine electrical system for 110V is fairly complex and does require bonding and a recommended galvanic isolator. Short of the galvanic isolator word be a big fish type sacrificial zinc, but having all metal bonded is critical.