Enthol vs non-enthol

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As to the white powder problem, I have come to the conclusion that it was caused by residual contaminants in fabricating the aluminum tank.

When the yamahas were experiencing failure shortly after ethanol arrived in my area, they found the filters clogged. One of the repair shops said that's why StarTron (ST) came out. The alcohol was washing the natural corrosion off the inside of the aluminum tanks and that plugged the very fine yammy filters. The tanks being washed clean, corroded again, then washing off again. Aluminum makes its own natural protection corrosion. It oxidizes to a point then stops. According to the shop, ST stopped the ethanol from washing the corrosion off the tank walls.
 
When the yamahas were experiencing failure shortly after ethanol arrived in my area, they found the filters clogged. One of the repair shops said that's why StarTron (ST) came out. The alcohol was washing the natural corrosion off the inside of the aluminum tanks and that plugged the very fine yammy filters. The tanks being washed clean, corroded again, then washing off again. Aluminum makes its own natural protection corrosion. It oxidizes to a point then stops. According to the shop, ST stopped the ethanol from washing the corrosion off the tank walls.
I never considered aluminum corrosion specifically in relation to E10, albeit it is somewhat obvious. I've been using Marine Stabil and Ring free all the time in all my boats, but my most recent ones, Yamaha jet boats, have plastic tanks so it's a mute point. Not so much with Parkers!

Here is an interesting article, wonder if anyone has any input - it seems there are better treatments for aluminum protection than Star Tron? Like Valve Tec or even good-old Seafoam?
https://www.practical-sailor.com/sy...ards/e-10-fuel-additives-that-fight-corrosion
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Great experiment! 82% humidity this morning 83 degrees at 10 AM
Went to marathon to pick up a boat in July some years ago
Got out of ac truck and thought I would pass out
Life is hotter in the keys for sure
Will stick to the northern Florida climate
Besides every time I go down there to fish the wind blows 25 kts until the day I leave
No exaggeration there
 
Went to marathon to pick up a boat in July some years ago
Got out of ac truck and thought I would pass out
Life is hotter in the keys for sure
Will stick to the northern Florida climate
Besides every time I go down there to fish the wind blows 25 kts until the day I leave
No exaggeration there
July thru September, the water temperature is 85-86 in the Keys, so in the shade, Directly on the ocean, under my Tiki hut with our prevailing South breeze it is about 84 degrees and 75% humidity . Travel inland 1/4 mile 90 degrees. Fishing has been slow, waiting for grouper season to open up Saturday and for the Mutton Snapper bite to pick up.
 
My last Grady, a 2015, had stickers on the fuel filler and a section in the Yamaha manual stating in bold print to not use E15. It said that E10 was acceptable, if non-E was not available. Probably 30-40% of the gas stations here have non-E, all the lawn service guys use nothing else. My cousin's Toyota Avalon will set the check engine light if she doesn't use non-E. Marina gas is all non-E, here and at the coast.
Where are you located? We too are fortunate, as non-ethanol Valvtect is readily available at our local marinas and at the main road-side gas station in town. Our Parker came with/has a sticker by the fuel fill. (A circular sticker, with a horizontal line through/over E15; like the Ghost Busters logo). I guess that means E10 is ok; and if that was all that was available, it is what I'd be using, as that would be a better option than not using the boat!
 
I guess I didn't really think through my post above, lol.
If moisture is the common denominator, ethanol could be the underlying cause for white "mold".
:oops:
--
 
If I were in a area where only e-10 is available. I would buy from stations that get a lot of business. That way you know they cycle through the gas often. Less chance of getting stagnant fuel.
 
When the yamahas were experiencing failure shortly after ethanol arrived in my area, they found the filters clogged. One of the repair shops said that's why StarTron (ST) came out. The alcohol was washing the natural corrosion off the inside of the aluminum tanks and that plugged the very fine yammy filters. The tanks being washed clean, corroded again, then washing off again. Aluminum makes its own natural protection corrosion. It oxidizes to a point then stops. According to the shop, ST stopped the ethanol from washing the corrosion off the tank walls.
My tank is more than 20 years old and I have used just 2 bottles of Startron about 10 years ago. I’m getting less than 1 % of the white powder that I got during the peak of the problem. If ethanol was really etching the aluminum, you would think it would get progressively worst—not better. The etching would create craters and pot marks which would increase the surface area for more etching. Plus, where are the pictures? Old tanks are being replaced every day. You would think someone would cut one up and put it under a microscope.

I think marine tanks are a subcontract item that goes to the lowest bidder and quality control at these shops are a bit lax. I’m no fan of ethanol. It got limping home from more than 50 miles offshore 4 times. I don’t think it is a big problem anymore. I can replace a VST filter in 15 minutes.
 
I am in the ethanol free camp: My new Parker, my skiff, my old Parker, my whaler, zero turn mower, small engines ( chain saws, edges, blowers, weed wackers, pole saws): Nothing except my wife's Yukon XL get anything but 91 octane ethanol free... My truck gets diesel.
 
The white stuff was from E10 sitting in the carb. It ate the Zamac casting.

There used to be a alcohol class in drag racing, the fuel system had to be purged of all fuel immediately after racing or the fuel would eat everything was my understanding. They have alcohol resistant hoses etc but I think they even breakdown eventually. Glass or stainless are my guess the only thing that it doesn't breakdown. Maybe ceramic will be stable, don't know.

When E10 came to Florida I used one tank in my mower decided to go to a marina to get real fuel. It died after 21 years, coil failure.
I have a 1963 tiller with a Briggs engine. Never had E10, I still use it twice a year in my garden. Cranks on second pull every time after sitting months. Hope I am not putting the curse of death by talking about it.

With fuel injection and closed fuel system some of the problems with E10 are mitigated. I don't think an E10 system will ever be as stable as regular fuel. Changing a VST in a critical situation is not my idea of a fun day. When it hits the fan, it's always at the worst possible time. That's my history.
 
Hi all,

I have been running ethanol fuel in my engines, Yami's and Evinrudes, for about 15 years with no problems. I religiously use Marine Stabil designed for ethanol gas: following the dosing instructions. Gas tank is still the original installed in a 2008 Parker 2520XL. Never had any problems related to Ethanol. I do have spin on Racor fuel filters with water seperators on both engines but rarely find water in the cup. No major motor work and they have all run like tops.

Just for additional information, I use my boats pretty heavily from about April to December, but both will sit for long periods during the winter and one is intermittently used in the summer. Both are stored on lifts from April through December and then on land in trailers but immediately proximal to water.

Just wanted to add my two cents to the conversation, since my experience seems to be different from a lot of folks responding.

Pat
 
In Massachusetts we have no choice. Have to run E10 fuel. I am a HUGE fan of Startron. helpful hint...if you can find the Startron for diesel, it is usually the same price as normal Startron, but is twice the concentration so you can use half as much. I confirmed this with a Startron tech several years ago.
 
I never considered aluminum corrosion specifically in relation to E10, albeit it is somewhat obvious. I've been using Marine Stabil and Ring free all the time in all my boats, but my most recent ones, Yamaha jet boats, have plastic tanks so it's a mute point. Not so much with Parkers!

Here is an interesting article, wonder if anyone has any input - it seems there are better treatments for aluminum protection than Star Tron? Like Valve Tec or even good-old Seafoam?
https://www.practical-sailor.com/sy...ards/e-10-fuel-additives-that-fight-corrosion
View attachment 28828
Biobar looks to be the best solution. I don't think they're correct on their ratio for SeaFoam as when I calculated it out, it took a whole lot more than regular Sta-bil to stabilize my 119 tank.
 
I commented before on this touchy subject. So here is some sad stuff. Any fuel, remember to put the cap back on. Saw two boats over the years that left their cap off the fuel tank while in the water followed by heavy rains. Both had to get their fuel removed. Saw a beautiful sportfishing boat with big tuna rigs at a marina for a couple of weeks. Fuel attendant filled the tanks with gas, had twin diesels. Took that long to line up off loading of the gas.

Just a couple of years ago had some entertainment, my marina attendants are mostly college and high school girls. I prefer to open the fuel cap and pump it myself. One time I was handling a line on the other side of the cockpit, the girl put the fuel nozzle in one of the rod holders. I mentioned it was not a good idea for her to start pumping.
 
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