Getting bow down on 2300

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Cman60

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Hi
I’ve been struggling to get bow down at 18 to 20 mph when in real 3 to 4 ft seas. Bought 4 blade prop from Ken at P Gods and that helped but still can’t bury bow in the rough stuff when I wanna come back 40 miles offshore and don’t mind it taking 2 hrs to avoid the pounding you get at 25 mph plus. Ordered new 12 x 18 blades which I know will help but I’m also considering a Permatrim. I’m wondering if the permatrim will be needed or if bigger tabs will do it. I’m also thinking about moving batteries to console which would help get weight forward and not have to lay on deck to turn on battery switches. Lots of possibilities looking for real world recent experience.
Boat is a 2017 with yami 300
Thxs
 
The 12 X 18's should have been on it to begin with......Put the tabs on.....Test and see how you like it....I bet that cures your problem......
 
Here is what I did on my 2015 2320 with a 300 Yamaha. When I bought the boat it already had the 4 blade prop. I added a permatrim but I still wasn’t happy with the ability to bury the nose. So I moved the 2 house batteries into the cabin and left the starting battery in the stern. But I still didn’t like it. Then I added the 12x18 trim tabs. Now with just a small adjustment of the tabs I can put the nose where I want it. If I would have done the tabs first I wouldn’t have added the permatrim.
 
Wasn’t really in a rush to drill holes in my 300😁
I hear that.
Go as big as you can fit
(from Bennett)
General guidelines for choosing a trim tab size
In general the widest span tabs that will fit on the transom will be the most effective. The greater the surface area, the greater the lift. We‘ll typically recommend a 9” chord tab, but depending on available transom space a shorter or longer chord tab, or specially shaped tabs with upfins or dropfins may be advised.
As a general rule for boats with max speeds of 40MPH, choose at least one inch of trim tab span (per side) for every foot of boat length. For example, a 22′ boat would use a 24”x9”.
For speeds 40MPH and over, we’ll generally point you to one of our Performance, or Premier Line high-performance systems.
 
Hi
You have 4 blade, bigger tabs, and Permatrim on a 2300?
Thxs


When I owned a 2300, yes, I did install a Rev4 prop (I didn't like the performance).

I then installed larger trim tabs. They were marginally effective in achieving the goal of flattening the planing attitude of the boat.

I then installed a Permatrim. That was significantly effective.

I finally placed a 250 quart cooler in front of the console. That was also effective (with the weight of 200lbs of ice and a bunch of fish inside.
 

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My new to me 2017 2320 SC, F300 came with a Permatrim installed and drop fins added to the stock Lenco tabs. With the standard Yamaha prop it will easily run bow down at 20 mph. Maybe a little less. Bow rise on hard acceleration is significantly less than my previous 2600 Striper. I think I am going to enjoy this boat!
 
I have a 2015 2300DV with the Yamaha 300. I'm close to being complete with relocating the batteries to inside the center console to help move some weight forward. I also put a 36v lithium battery in there for my trolling motor. When I'm out I put all my soft sided coolers with beverages and all the ice I'm going to carry that day in the front storage areas. Regardless what I'm fishing for that day I keep a Yeti bucket inside the center console with all my lead in it all the time. I've also got the fiberglass hard top. I can get the bow down pretty well with the trim tabs and trimming the engine but the ride is still rough in a tight chop. It may be just my boat but it definitely doesn't like a head sea.
 
Running 40 miles in "3 to 4-foot seas?....." You need a bigger boat".
Had a Cobia 296 and downsized. I don’t go out 40 miles in those conditions but by the end of the day those conditions can appear and at 20 mph with the bow down this hull can handle 3’s no problem.
 
Hi
I’ve been struggling to get bow down at 18 to 20 mph when in real 3 to 4 ft seas.

God bless you.

(I am in my 16th year and on my second engine with the same Parker 2520 that I fish exclusively in the open ocean. I can’t even think about going that fast in that sea state in ANY Parker. Hurts just to think about......:))
 
God bless you.

(I am in my 16th year and on my second engine with the same Parker 2520 that I fish exclusively in the open ocean. I can’t even think about going that fast in that sea state in ANY Parker. Hurts just to think about......:))
😂😂
 
Any update on your success? I have a 2300 and have the bigger tabs and the 4 blade prop. Still can't bury the bow like I want to.
 
Any update on your success? I have a 2300 and have the bigger tabs and the 4 blade prop. Still can't bury the bow like I want to.
Still in shop waiting for service. My season is over. I won’t test changes till next year, but if larger tabs don’t do the trick then I’ll put on a Permatrim. That’s a quick add on so I can make that change early next season if I need to. I’m sad to hear the bigger tabs and a 4 blade isn’t working for you. Are your batteries still in the bilge and do you have rear seat? I think pulling the batteries could be helpful. This boat just hates weight in the rear.
 
I went back to the surgeon yesterday, released me to take the boat out finally. I plan to head down next weekend. I’ll report on what changes to handling moving the batteries made.
 
Do you have a Windlass? As crazy as it sound, having the windlass can sometime help weight it down.

On my 2120 with a 200hp 4s, I used to always have to use the trim taps to help push it down but it only help just a little and still pounds. I also have a 4 blade prop that helped getting out of the hole compared to the 3 blade which also helped but I found the biggest improvement when I added the permatrim and maybe the windlass. I added both of these items together so I can't say which one was the bigger contributor but I'm leaning towards permatrim. It is night and day different.
 
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