Getting bow down on 2300

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That’s good to hear. Can’t remember did u do 12x18 blades as well?

No. I've got a 36v lithium ion trolling battery (and a Rhodan trolling motor mounted on the bow) and two group 27 AGM batteries in the console now. I switched over to roll up tackle bags for all of my trolling lures and had them rolled up in 3 Yeti buckets in the console as well. I had my Yeti Hopper 30 loaded and sat it in the bow of the boat. 3 men on board and probably about 100lbs of fish/ice in the transom fish box at the end of the day. I couldn't believe how much better the boat road & handled.
 
Hi
I’ve been struggling to get bow down at 18 to 20 mph when in real 3 to 4 ft seas. Bought 4 blade prop from Ken at P Gods and that helped but still can’t bury bow in the rough stuff when I wanna come back 40 miles offshore and don’t mind it taking 2 hrs to avoid the pounding you get at 25 mph plus. Ordered new 12 x 18 blades which I know will help but I’m also considering a Permatrim. I’m wondering if the permatrim will be needed or if bigger tabs will do it. I’m also thinking about moving batteries to console which would help get weight forward and not have to lay on deck to turn on battery switches. Lots of possibilities looking for real world recent experience.
Boat is a 2017 with yami 300
Thxs
Permatrim was a great addition for my 2320
 
Here is what I did on my 2015 2320 with a 300 Yamaha. When I bought the boat it already had the 4 blade prop. I added a permatrim but I still wasn’t happy with the ability to bury the nose. So I moved the 2 house batteries into the cabin and left the starting battery in the stern. But I still didn’t like it. Then I added the 12x18 trim tabs. Now with just a small adjustment of the tabs I can put the nose where I want it. If I would have done the tabs first I wouldn’t have added the permatrim.
Whaler, did you install a new tab system or just new blades with the original Lenco actuators?
 
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Whaler, did you install a new tab system or just new blades with the original Lenco actuators?
New blades with original actuators, but I had to move the mounting location of the actuators to match the new blades.
 
Interesting update. So shop called and said they were moving actuators for tabs for 2 reasons. One so they would be centered on new 18 inch blades and 2 the original set up from Parker was too high so original blades never went down as deep as they should have which in their opinion was why I struggled to bring down bow even after 4 blade prop switch. So now I have bigger blades that fully deploy and we think this will solve problem. So at the moment saving the 2k estimate to move batteries into console and we will see how it handles. Anyone else have this issue of blades being installed too high? I have never seen that before.
 
Interesting update. So shop called and said they were moving actuators for tabs for 2 reasons. One so they would be centered on new 18 inch blades and 2 the original set up from Parker was too high so original blades never went down as deep as they should have which in their opinion was why I struggled to bring down bow even after 4 blade prop switch. So now I have bigger blades that fully deploy and we think this will solve problem. So at the moment saving the 2k estimate to move batteries into console and we will see how it handles. Anyone else have this issue of blades being installed too high? I have never seen that before.
The blades were installed too high? That's a good catch. I will absolutely check mine and see if they actuate as required.
 
My previous boat was a 2300DVCC. Adding the Permatrim made a world of difference, I wish I would have done it sooner. It was a nice off-season project ... I pulled the lower unit in the fall at the end of the season and took it down to my basement. I ended up doing the water pump kit too while I had it off. It was nice to work on it where it was nice and warm and had all of the needed tools close by. Good luck.
 
Interesting update. So shop called and said they were moving actuators for tabs for 2 reasons. One so they would be centered on new 18 inch blades and 2 the original set up from Parker was too high so original blades never went down as deep as they should have which in their opinion was why I struggled to bring down bow even after 4 blade prop switch. So now I have bigger blades that fully deploy and we think this will solve problem. So at the moment saving the 2k estimate to move batteries into console and we will see how it handles. Anyone else have this issue of blades being installed too high? I have never seen that before.
$2k to move the batteries!? Wow, maybe it’s just me, but that seems crazy expensive!
 
I had mine done a few years ago (batteries to console). Just looked at my old bill and it was just over $600 total. Made a WORLD of difference how the boat rides and keeps them out of harm's way. However, it looks like folks have had success with other methods as well.
 
I had mine done a few years ago (batteries to console). Just looked at my old bill and it was just over $600 total. Made a WORLD of difference how the boat rides and keeps them out of harm's way. However, it looks like folks have had success with other methods as well.
2300?
 
$300-$500 for materials and $500 labor would be expected for a seasonal industry but $2000? Either they dont want to do it and gave you a "fishing estimate" (to see if you take the bait) or you need a new shop.
I was quoted 10 hours in labor at $125 per hour= $ 1250 and $750 in parts = $2000. This is Cape Cod MA. and this is Nauset Marine who has been in business since the early 60's and has been my shop for over 30 years. My other quote from the Youngs Electronics one of the best and highly reviewed electronics guy on the cape was $2900. So I'm out of new shops. These are the 2 places I have used for 30 years. If you know of a reputable place that can move batteries for $1000 on Cape please let me know.

Thanks
 
I had mine done a few years ago (batteries to console). Just looked at my old bill and it was just over $600 total. Made a WORLD of difference how the boat rides and keeps them out of harm's way. However, it looks like folks have had success with other methods as well.
Where in MA did you have this done for $600 even with price increases your guy cant be above $1000. I'll trailer the boat a couple of hours to save $1000

thanks
 
My previous boat was a 2300DVCC. Adding the Permatrim made a world of difference, I wish I would have done it sooner. It was a nice off-season project ... I pulled the lower unit in the fall at the end of the season and took it down to my basement. I ended up doing the water pump kit too while I had it off. It was nice to work on it where it was nice and warm and had all of the needed tools close by. Good luck.
thanks for feedback. I just not a fan of drilling into my Yami 300. Additionally these boats are a little slow to begin with. I'm just touching 50 mph with the motor way up and a light load. I don't want to lose 2-4 mph top end due to the Permatrim and I've read about some not so nice handling characteristics that some have endured. It may have worked great for you but I would prefer to use tabs when I need them instead of a permanent quasi tab, which I understand how it helps keep the bow down but it must cause more drag just being there at all times or it wouldn't work to help get your bow down.
 
I was quoted 10 hours in labor at $125 per hour= $ 1250 and $750 in parts = $2000. This is Cape Cod MA. and this is Nauset Marine who has been in business since the early 60's and has been my shop for over 30 years. My other quote from the Youngs Electronics one of the best and highly reviewed electronics guy on the cape was $2900. So I'm out of new shops. These are the 2 places I have used for 30 years. If you know of a reputable place that can move batteries for $1000 on Cape please let me know.

Thanks

$750 in parts seems like a lot… are they replacing the batteries, switches, trays, breakers, etc. or are they just moving them? The materials for my installation with brand new everything was about $700, probably as high as $800 if I’d needed a new cranking battery, and that’s with a ton of leftover cable, lugs, etc. I’d want an itemized list.
 
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J&W Marine, Salem, MA.

They did not replace the switches, etc. Simply relocated the batteries from the stern of my 2300 to the forward part of my console. A later project was replacing the conventional battery switch with an isolator version.
 
I was quoted 10 hours in labor at $125 per hour= $ 1250 and $750 in parts = $2000. This is Cape Cod MA. and this is Nauset Marine who has been in business since the early 60's and has been my shop for over 30 years. My other quote from the Youngs Electronics one of the best and highly reviewed electronics guy on the cape was $2900. So I'm out of new shops. These are the 2 places I have used for 30 years. If you know of a reputable place that can move batteries for $1000 on Cape please let me know.

Thanks

I got mine done for around $1,000 (not including new batteries that I bought)
$168 for BEP cluster
$40 for new battery trays
$40 for new circuit breaker
$150 for battery cable
$50 for lugs
$500 to electrician
 
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