Installing Lewmar Pro Fish 700

[pelagic2530]

Using 6awg. Was thinking about using a 50A fuse.

Assuming it’s running in a bundle with other cables, ampacity of 6AWG cable (assuming you’re using boat cable with a 105C insulation rating) is 100A. I’d recommend using a fuse that’s significantly higher than the breaker you’re using but lower than the wire ampacity, such as 80A. That way, the long wiring run to the helm will be adequately protected from short circuit damage, and if the circuit is temporarily overloaded, the resettable breaker will trip before the fuse blows, making it easier to restore system function.

 

[shawnee83]

Assuming it’s running in a bundle with other cables, ampacity of 6AWG cable (assuming you’re using boat cable with a 105C insulation rating) is 100A. I’d recommend using a fuse that’s significantly higher than the breaker you’re using but lower than the wire ampacity, such as 80A. That way, the long wiring run to the helm will be adequately protected from short circuit damage, and if the circuit is temporarily overloaded, the resettable breaker will trip before the fuse blows, making it easier to restore system function.

Ok, I feel like this is a stupid question but here goes. Can I just mount a surface mounted thermal breaker in the jump seat near the start battery vs. a fuse? The thermal breaker that came with the kit is a panel mount style and I like the idea of being able to mount it at helm to turn the windless on/off from there. I’d leave the one next to the battery on all the time probably. A Blue Seas thermal surface mounted breaker is only $41 and not much higher than a fuse with the insulator cover. I figured why not just have one at the battery I can reset and turn on/off the circuit while protecting that section of the line? Will 2 50A thermal breakers on the same feed cause any issue?

 

[pelagic2530]

Ok, I feel like this is a stupid question but here goes. Can I just mount a surface mounted thermal breaker in the jump seat near the start battery vs. a fuse? The thermal breaker that came with the kit is a panel mount style and I like the idea of being able to mount it at helm to turn the windless on/off from there. I’d leave the one next to the battery on all the time probably. A Blue Seas thermal surface mounted breaker is only $41 and not much higher than a fuse with the insulator cover. I figured why not just have one at the battery I can reset and turn on/off the circuit while protecting that section of the line? Will 2 50A thermal breakers on the same feed cause any issue?

There’s no problem using two breakers. But again, for convenience sake, you’ll want the one at the stern closest to the battery to be of a higher amp capacity than the one at the helm (but lower than the rated ampacity of the cable). This is so that in an overload condition other than a dead short in the cabling, the breaker at the helm will trip first. That way it’s easier to reset the tripped breaker from the helm rather than going all the way to the stern.

 

[shawnee83]

There’s no problem using two breakers. But again, for convenience sake, you’ll want the one at the stern closest to the battery to be of a higher amp capacity than the one at the helm (but lower than the rated ampacity of the cable). This is so that in an overload condition other than a dead short in the cabling, the breaker at the helm will trip first. That way it’s easier to reset the tripped breaker from the helm rather than going all the way to the stern.

Thanks. Makes sense to me. I have a new plan. I’ll try to post pics of this project once the puzzle starts to come together. So far I’ve only drilled all the holes for the windless and purchased all parts but the extra breaker. I need to seal the cuts and then start mounting stuff. Thanks for the help

 

[Mpellet]

Ok, I feel like this is a stupid question but here goes. Can I just mount a surface mounted thermal breaker in the jump seat near the start battery vs. a fuse? The thermal breaker that came with the kit is a panel mount style and I like the idea of being able to mount it at helm to turn the windless on/off from there. I’d leave the one next to the battery on all the time probably. A Blue Seas thermal surface mounted breaker is only $41 and not much higher than a fuse with the insulator cover. I figured why not just have one at the battery I can reset and turn on/off the circuit while protecting that section of the line? Will 2 50A thermal breakers on the same feed cause any issue?

When I put the windless on my Parker, I used #6 wire with a breaker at the battery and then the lewmar breaker that came with my windless mounted on an open section of my dash , see red arrow In picture below. I have never experienced any complications having 2 breakers on the windlass power.

 

[shawnee83]

When I put the windless on my Parker, I used #6 wire with a breaker at the battery and then the lewmar breaker that came with my windless mounted on an open section of my dash , see red arrow In picture below. I have never experienced any complications having 2 breakers on the windlass power.View attachment 35871

Good to know. That is what I’m doing also. It covers both bases on safety and code. Thanks for the reply. I’m using #6 also.

 

[Mpellet]

Good to know. That is what I’m doing also. It covers both bases on safety and code. Thanks for the reply. I’m using #6 also.

I wish I could have convinced you not to go through with it but you seem committed…..

 

[shawnee83]

I wish I could have convinced you not to go through with it but you seem committed…..

I am. Again, for the type of boating I’m doing, I hope it is a positive add.

 

[shawnee83]

Step one mostly complete. Windless mounted and anchor locker done except zipping off the studs and insulator caps for the terminal post.

 

[shawnee83]

I did a custom anchor rode order today from a company in Clearwater FL, Dark Horse Marie. Very nice ppl. I ended up ordering 100’ galvanized 1/4 G4 and 125’ 8 plate. I also ordered the bitter end with links of chain spliced. This will allow me to connect via shackle, extra rode stored elsewhere if needed for emergency or deep fishing. It ships ready to go with splices etc. I’m hoping this strategy will yield good function. I wanted stainless chain but it added about $500 to an already expensive project. I have everything mounted except all the connections at the battery in the starboard jump seat. I’ll take pics when done.

 

[warthog5]

I dislike those Breakers that they include.....I used one once on a different deal...They flush mount in a Gray EMT style box nicely.... I usually just chuck'em to the side and add a Surface mount breaker.

 

[shawnee83]

I dislike those Breakers that they include.....I used one once on a different deal...They flush mount in a Gray EMT style box nicely.... I usually just chuck'em to the side and add a Surface mount breaker.

I used the surface mount at the helm in that starboard valance/skirt I made to hide the AC shelf. I mounted the solenoid under the helm and it keeps all the wiring out of sight. It gives me on/off function at the helm. I purchased a Blue Seas surface mount type for the jump seat connection next to the start battery.

 

[warthog5]

It gives me on/off function at the helm.

Bad idea..... Why we install Master ON/OFF switches.

 

[shawnee83]

Bad idea..... Why we install Master ON/OFF switches.

As in like a battery switch type on off?

 

[Pat G]

I used the surface mount at the helm in that starboard valance/skirt I made to hide the AC shelf. I mounted the solenoid under the helm and it keeps all the wiring out of sight. It gives me on/off function at the helm. I purchased a Blue Seas surface mount type for the jump seat connection next to the start battery.

Can anyone on here recommend a good gasoline transfer pump that i can safely use to empty my tank on my 2320 the gas is about three years old and i want to off load it
thanks all Pat G

 

[warthog5]

Bad idea..... Why we install Master ON/OFF switches.

As in like a battery switch type on off?

YES - What I always refer to as the Master ON/OFF switch.

 

[pcleano]

Leave your wiring the way it is. It’s already done.

Use one of the accessory switches on the dash panel to power the windlass rocker switch. When you want to use the windlass turn on the accessory switch. Leave it off when not in use, that way if your bump the windlass switch it won’t deploy. If done this way you only need one circuit breaker back at the battery.

 

[shawnee83]

Well all valid points. The 2 breakers are already mounted and seem to work fine. Thanks for the input

 

[warthog5]

Use one of the accessory switches on the dash panel to power the windlass rocker switch.

I don't exactly understand what your trying to tell him...... BUT Those switches in the dash are rated at a MAX of 20amps. A Windless is wired for 50amp

 

[pcleano]

I don't exactly understand what your trying to tell him...... BUT Those switches in the dash are rated at a MAX of 20amps. A Windless is wired for 50amp

The windlass rocker switch that activates the windlass solenoid only requires 3 amps. Basically you are putting a low amp on off switch in the line feeding the windlass rocker. Referring the the Lewmar wiring diagram you are just adding a switch after the 3 amp fuse. To accomplish this Using the dash switch panel, change the breaker to 3 amps and use the blank accessory switch that is already there. No need to run the low amp power wire from the solenoid to the windlass rocker, the rocker is now powered by the accessory switch.