NormH
Member
I have a leaking front window, it leaks in under the metal frame in the far right corner. Does anyone have any ideas on repairing this without having to remove the glass from the frame?
Thanks Norm
Thanks Norm
Leaking Front Window
- Thread starter NormH
- Start date
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norm,
the leaking front windows were a known problem since i first
talked with my dealer in `92!.....when i pulled them out about
ten years ago, it was obvious that the FRAME would easily accept
water and then channel it down to the outboard corner to drip out...
my personal solution was to rip them both out and shitcan them
both!......i had a second problem with my windows: they were not
high enough for my standing sightline......thus, in replacing my two
front windows, i wanted BOTH watertight integrity and greater height..
i cut out another 3" out of the top of both window openings, and then
made templates which went to diamond seaglaze in b.c......my son
was a commercial fisherman in the bering sea, and diamond seaglaze
hatches and windows had a great rep in that fleet.....i have since seen
parker move to diamond seaglaze a year or two after i did.
i ordered hatch specs, ie watertight to 10` submersion...i ordered
them without tint , and with 6mm auto-grade glass, ie it shatters into
little bits which wont cut you.........thus, i ordered my dream windows
and they have been every bit of what i ordered and hoped for....they
were (best you sit down now) $1200 ......i bedded them HEAVILY with
silicone and added the very attractive trim ring on the inner side.....
it has been one of the GREAT UPGRADES of the dozens i have done over
15 years........you may wonder where the wiper motor goes?....i traded
them for a rod with a friend......again, my son put me onto using RAIN-X
ONLY.....they have found in alaska that you get a better window in bad
weather with the rainx alone.....i took his word on the diamond seaglaze
folks and the no-wipers approach.....absolutely the best way to go....
i put a light coat of rainx on before each and every trip....i havent missed
the wiper one bit...oh, and the replacement blades from afi were $15 each
.....thus, it is just a matter of time before i recoup my investment.......
the boat looks the same from any distance but a sherlock holmesian
posture.........
you will NOT be able to fix the leak, regardless of how much sealant
you put around the frame.......you are committed to replacement....dan
the leaking front windows were a known problem since i first
talked with my dealer in `92!.....when i pulled them out about
ten years ago, it was obvious that the FRAME would easily accept
water and then channel it down to the outboard corner to drip out...
my personal solution was to rip them both out and shitcan them
both!......i had a second problem with my windows: they were not
high enough for my standing sightline......thus, in replacing my two
front windows, i wanted BOTH watertight integrity and greater height..
i cut out another 3" out of the top of both window openings, and then
made templates which went to diamond seaglaze in b.c......my son
was a commercial fisherman in the bering sea, and diamond seaglaze
hatches and windows had a great rep in that fleet.....i have since seen
parker move to diamond seaglaze a year or two after i did.
i ordered hatch specs, ie watertight to 10` submersion...i ordered
them without tint , and with 6mm auto-grade glass, ie it shatters into
little bits which wont cut you.........thus, i ordered my dream windows
and they have been every bit of what i ordered and hoped for....they
were (best you sit down now) $1200 ......i bedded them HEAVILY with
silicone and added the very attractive trim ring on the inner side.....
it has been one of the GREAT UPGRADES of the dozens i have done over
15 years........you may wonder where the wiper motor goes?....i traded
them for a rod with a friend......again, my son put me onto using RAIN-X
ONLY.....they have found in alaska that you get a better window in bad
weather with the rainx alone.....i took his word on the diamond seaglaze
folks and the no-wipers approach.....absolutely the best way to go....
i put a light coat of rainx on before each and every trip....i havent missed
the wiper one bit...oh, and the replacement blades from afi were $15 each
.....thus, it is just a matter of time before i recoup my investment.......
the boat looks the same from any distance but a sherlock holmesian
posture.........
you will NOT be able to fix the leak, regardless of how much sealant
you put around the frame.......you are committed to replacement....dan
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
Norm:
What year boat :?: ? I must be lucky, as my '92 doesn't leak through either front window and it's the same vintage as Dan's (Dry Doc).
Dumb question, but is it leaking from the f'glass bulkhead to the outside frame juncture or could it be from the glass to the window frame holding it?
Either way, I'll admit that many other older boats also suffered this malady (many complaints/reports on the old Parker Marine forums), until they switched suppliers to that one Dan mentioned.
Now if it were me (and with all due respect to Dan's effrots) I'd sure give it a try to see if I could seal it myself. If you do remove it to re-bed it, DO NOT tighten the screws up when you re-install it. Just put them snug and have enough goop/sealant in there that after 2-3 days when you do torque it up ... the goop will compress and also serve like a gasket.
Rain-X:
I too am another Rain-X convert. I did add a manual wiper over the main helm (starboard) window, but I rarely have to use it ... provided that I recently applied the Rain-X that is
!
What year boat :?: ? I must be lucky, as my '92 doesn't leak through either front window and it's the same vintage as Dan's (Dry Doc).
Dumb question, but is it leaking from the f'glass bulkhead to the outside frame juncture or could it be from the glass to the window frame holding it?
Either way, I'll admit that many other older boats also suffered this malady (many complaints/reports on the old Parker Marine forums), until they switched suppliers to that one Dan mentioned.
Now if it were me (and with all due respect to Dan's effrots) I'd sure give it a try to see if I could seal it myself. If you do remove it to re-bed it, DO NOT tighten the screws up when you re-install it. Just put them snug and have enough goop/sealant in there that after 2-3 days when you do torque it up ... the goop will compress and also serve like a gasket.
Rain-X:
I too am another Rain-X convert. I did add a manual wiper over the main helm (starboard) window, but I rarely have to use it ... provided that I recently applied the Rain-X that is
!stonebuster
Well-known member
Norm, I have an XL that the gaskets pulled away from the lower corners of windsheild and leaked. Reglued and clamped. My problem was solved, at least temporarily. Your's may be a different problem.
Knock on wood... I have been fortunate, and my windows do not leak.
But... Every time I see those Diamond Seaglaze windows on the newer boats... I want a set. 8)
They are on my "future upgrade wish list".
But... Every time I see those Diamond Seaglaze windows on the newer boats... I want a set. 8)
They are on my "future upgrade wish list".
rangerdog
Well-known member
I have galvanic corrosion (white powdery)(I think) on the frame around my back windows on the inside and none any place else. Anyone else have that? Drives me crazy. Its obviously caused by salt/aluminum electrolsis but its on the inside. Usually cones off when I wash the windows. Guess I need to use salt away and then a generous amount of Corrosion-X. What say you fellas?
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
I'd remove (one at a time) any SS fastener holding those windows in place and would either coat the threads with Tef-Gel (http://www.tefgel.com.au/) or water-proof synthetic grease or even simple heat-shrink tubing.
Any of these serve to isolate the SS fastener from the aluminum and helps prevent galvanic corrosion due to the dis-similar metals. Sometimes I even put a thin nylon washer under the head of the SS bolt, or make sure the h-s tubing covers the head somes. Works slick !
Any of these serve to isolate the SS fastener from the aluminum and helps prevent galvanic corrosion due to the dis-similar metals. Sometimes I even put a thin nylon washer under the head of the SS bolt, or make sure the h-s tubing covers the head somes. Works slick
!After talking to a local Parker dealer a few years back, they gave me a tip that worked for my leaking starboard (opening style) window. They suggested to clean the gasket real well and coat it GENEROUSLY with o-ring/gasket grease that can be purchased at any pool supply store about 2 times a season. It has since eliminated the problem for us. We also use it on the pry hatch gaskets, gasket around the door, etc. Worth a shot since it's a cheap solution. Good luck!
Stank Bait
Well-known member
Here are excerpts of posts by fishinfireman from the Parker Yahoo board. Not sure what windows you have.
This is how I fixed the leaking windshields on my 2002 2520. I hope
someone can use it.
There is a groove in the face of the moving part of the windshield.
The face with the groove contacts the rubber sealing gasket but not
with enough force to seal out the water. I bought some 1/4" ID latex
rubber tubing and pushed it into the groove while squeezing the
tubing flat. Once I worked it all the way around to where I started I
cut the tubing to the right length and glued the ends together with
super glue. My windshields have been leak free for almost 2 years
now.
You may be able to find a better type of tubing to use but this is
what worked for me. I looked for black rubber tubing but I could not
find it with thin enough walls to fit the groove. This tubing looks
like surgical tubing to me but I found it in the local hardware
store. You can glue the tubing into the groove but it is not really
necessary.
It was on a roll. I bought it in Alachua Farm & Lumber, our local hardware
store. It is a latex rubber tubing.
This is how I fixed the leaking windshields on my 2002 2520. I hope
someone can use it.
There is a groove in the face of the moving part of the windshield.
The face with the groove contacts the rubber sealing gasket but not
with enough force to seal out the water. I bought some 1/4" ID latex
rubber tubing and pushed it into the groove while squeezing the
tubing flat. Once I worked it all the way around to where I started I
cut the tubing to the right length and glued the ends together with
super glue. My windshields have been leak free for almost 2 years
now.
You may be able to find a better type of tubing to use but this is
what worked for me. I looked for black rubber tubing but I could not
find it with thin enough walls to fit the groove. This tubing looks
like surgical tubing to me but I found it in the local hardware
store. You can glue the tubing into the groove but it is not really
necessary.
It was on a roll. I bought it in Alachua Farm & Lumber, our local hardware
store. It is a latex rubber tubing.
