My first never ending boat list!

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Island Dreamer

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Well, I've now owned a boat for 2 months and here is what my list looks like. Other boat owners chuckle when I talk about my boat list and things to do.They tell me it is never ending! I really enjoy going to the boat and working on stuff up at the marina in dry storage. A great way to forget about Covid, Zoom classes, and the coming zombie apocalypse.
Completed boat list
Batteries Changed Jan. 1 2021
New fuel sending unit Jan 2021
New fuel pump installed
New hydraulics rams, hydraulic lines, block, bearing and bellows replaced.

To Do List
Sure flow wash down pump not working
Navigation lights at bow not working check voltage
Float switch not working in bilge
Need to fix toilet and epoxy loose screw.
BEP battery switch
Make sure intake hole to toilet is clear underneath
Pump out holding tank
Adjust bunks to fit boat
Replace horn
Look for leaks above pilot house wet spot found
Install windless on the bow
Convert to LED lights
Replace wiper blades
Spray adhesive on ceiling for sagging carpet

Things to Check
Voltage at 3000 rpm
Riser passage condition
Check impeller
VHF radio check at distance
Check to make sure Neutra Salt system is injecting solution

Call mechanic about
IAC switch

Things to get
Fishing poles.
Bean bag
Filet table
Drawers for seat inside measure first
Led light for cockpit
Stern Anchor
Allen key set
Anti sieze for bolts
various soaps and sprays for deck
deck brushes
Salt away to rinse trailer.
Nico 3000 amp jumper
 
Sure flow wash down pump not working

It's the pump that every manufacture uses......They last a max of 2yrs.

SureFlow aka NoFlow.

Replace it with a Jabsco Parmax Hotshot......They make 3 of them....I get the middle one all the time. 6GPM @ 70PSI.
 
It's the pump that every manufacture uses......They last a max of 2yrs.

SureFlow aka NoFlow.

Replace it with a Jabsco Parmax Hotshot......They make 3 of them....I get the middle one all the time. 6GPM @ 70PSI.
I’m replacing my Surflo 3GPM sea water wash down pump. The pump you reference sounds like what I want. Looking at the specs, requires a 25 amp fuse, not sure what size fuse mine has installed. Is that something I would have to replace, would that pump require heavier wire or is it a matter of changing fuses. I assume it’s the same bolt pattern?
 
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I'm glad I saw this, the seawater wash down pump is on my "Make our boat shine again" list.
Being outside the cabin, is at the bottom of the list.but knowing is normal to only last a few years puts it in the "buy and replace" category instead of the "figure out what-why"

I haven't had the nerve of writing down the list for fear of being overwhelmed. It's kind of a mental list, but maybe I should spell it out and post it here. The reply to that list above, sure helped me.
 
would that pump require heavier wire or is it a matter of changing fuses. I assume it’s the same bolt pattern?

Wire and fuse.....Also I ran into "THIS" on a smaller boat....The size of the intake was to small and upsetting the pump. Needs a 3/4in intake....
 
Wire and fuse.....Also I ran into "THIS" on a smaller boat....The size of the intake was to small and upsetting the pump. Needs a 3/4in intake....
That might be beyond my scope of work. Sounding like I might want to go the plug and play route versus pulling new wire under deck. Old pump is a 2014, extra on numbers would have been nice.
 
That might be beyond my scope of work. Sounding like I might want to go the plug and play route versus pulling new wire under deck. Old pump is a 2014, extra on numbers would have been nice.

Just did this on my boat this year.
It’s not hard. Just make sure you also get a switch rated at 30 amps.
No, the mounting screw pattern is not the same.
The pump will blast the deck clean, great upgrade.
 
That might be beyond my scope of work. Sounding like I might want to go the plug and play route versus pulling new wire under deck. Old pump is a 2014, extra on numbers would have been nice.

You don’t necessarily need to replace the wiring. It’s probably either 12 or 10AWG, both of which would be fine to power that pump and both of which would be properly protected by a 25A fuse. If the wiring is undersized, you may see a slight decrease in pump performance due to excess voltage drop, but it’ll work and won’t pose a safety hazard.

For instance, a quick calculation using 10% voltage drop and a 40’ wire run (helm-stern and back) for a 20A draw (from the MFRs spec sheet) suggests 10AWG. Your installation may be different, so be sure to do your own calculations.

If you have an existing thru-hull pickup, it’s likely already 3/4” or 1”.

However, if your boat is wired like most Parkers, your washdown pump is likely on a breaker, rather than a fuse. In that case, you may need to replace the breaker, which is a bit more involved. However, it’s worth checking first; it’s possible that a 25A breaker is already installed as that’s not an uncommon circuit protection size for a washdown pump.
 
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For instance, a quick calculation using 10% voltage drop and a 40’ wire run (helm-stern and back) for a 20A draw (from the MFRs spec sheet) suggests 10AWG. Your installation may be different, so be sure to do your own calculations.

Most are 14ga from the factory. I'm speaking in general here...[All Makes..not just Parker ] Also....I never build a circuit with 10% voltage drop. Thats quite a bit in my eyes.... I try to stick to 5% or less...depending on the application.

However, it’s worth checking first; it’s possible that a 25A breaker is already installed as that’s not an uncommon circuit protection size for a washdown pump.

I've never seen that....In fact..The factory switch panel with breakers are all 15amp...Even when a load demand is designed for 6amps....Which always puzzeled me...and chalked it up to Lazy. Finding a 25a breaker that fits in the panel under the switch has been a problem.
As you will see here....20a is the largest.

https://newwiremarine.com/product/push-reset-circuit-breaker/
 
Been following this post as I am about to replace my wash down pump as well. Would it be wrong to eliminate the breaker at the panel and install an in-line fuse near the pump? I have decent access to that area and seems to be a simpler solution....
 
Been following this post as I am about to replace my wash down pump as well. Would it be wrong to eliminate the breaker at the panel and install an in-line fuse near the pump? I have decent access to that area and seems to be a simpler solution....

Yes, for a couple reasons. First, the circuit protection exists to protect the wiring. For this reason, it’s required to be within a short distance of the source of power, in order to minimize the length of unprotected wire (i.e., wire between the source of power and the fuse). If a short develops within that length of unprotected wire, there will be nothing to protect the wire from overheating and potentially causing a fire.

Secondly, an inline fuse in the bilge location where the pump is mounted is asking for corrosion issues. Inline fuses in general are bad news, one located there is inviting headaches later on down the road.

Thirdly, adding an inline fuse and bypassing the breaker means that if the pump gets clogged, or for any other reason it temporarily exceeds the amperage of the fuse, you’ll need to dig out the appropriate fuse and replace it as opposed to simply pushing the breaker reset button. Not a big deal, but a potential PITA. Doing so also complicates your electrical system for future troubleshooting, either for yourself, a hired tech, or a future owner. Best to keep all circuit protection in one place, to the greatest extent possible.
 
In a case where there was no switch in the switch for a washdown pump, as was the Parker I had and have done this to others.
These Jabsco Parmax Hotshots pull a Bunch of amps, But will knock the squid juice right off the deck.... Oh and win in Squirt Gun fights with other boats too, :)

Anyway This same could be done on any boat and eliminate the switch in the panel at the helm.

My Push pull switch was mounted under the washboard for protection and back by the transom [port - stern quarter]

Batteries were in bilge area like many Parkers, so power was easy to come by and wiring had a shorter run. 10ga was used for the circuit.... A circuit was pulled off the main breaker with a inline fuse that fed the house circuit.

Why would you do that?

As we bottom fish and move from spot to spot....It's the crews responsibility to clean up while the capt. worries about getting to the next spot.
The crew doesn't have to bother the Capt with turning the pump ON/OFF as they can access the swith and do their job. The shorter run was benifical with a 25amp circuit.....and it just worked much smother and efficiant. Pwer was cut to that circuit, as well as all House circuits when the BEP cluster's House switch was turned OFF at the end of the day.
 
Most are 14ga from the factory. I'm speaking in general here...[All Makes..not just Parker ] Also....I never build a circuit with 10% voltage drop. Thats quite a bit in my eyes.... I try to stick to 5% or less...depending on the application.



I've never seen that....In fact..The factory switch panel with breakers are all 15amp...Even when a load demand is designed for 6amps....Which always puzzeled me...and chalked it up to Lazy. Finding a 25a breaker that fits in the panel under the switch has been a problem.
As you will see here....20a is the largest.

https://newwiremarine.com/product/push-reset-circuit-breaker/

Interesting. The ones I’ve ripped out have largely been 12AWG.

Ideally, yes, 3-5% voltage drop is a good target. However, in this case, the pump upgrade can be safely done without ripping out the existing wiring. Performance might suffer slightly.

As far as the breaker goes, a CLB breaker (easily available in 25A) will fit as long as the panel is the front mount type, where the breaker is mounted to the panel through a hole in the panel surface and secured on the front side with a screw-on button or bezel. These panels use wire jumpers between the terminals on the back side of the breaker; these can be easily replaced if needed to accommodate the slightly larger breaker.

The MFRs use a 15A breaker because they’re protecting the wire runs, not the devices attached. It is lazy, but it’s compliant.
 
Sorry as I know this is an older post, but do you have any images of those installed? Did you lose much storage space with them?
This is picture of the drawers and a tackle storage box I made from starboard. The drawers go about 2/3-3/4 the depth of the cabinet so you lose a little space and you also have to add a leg to support the back of the drawers. I later mounted my autopilot pump in the lost space on the deck in the cabinet. Below the drawers I stow 12 life jackets between the leg for the drawers and the hatch in the step.
57055476762__22CDE0E2-3149-4DB3-9041-A8D2F7656F62.JPG
 
This is picture of the drawers and a tackle storage box I made from starboard. The drawers go about 2/3-3/4 the depth of the cabinet so you lose a little space and you also have to add a leg to support the back of the drawers. I later mounted my autopilot pump in the lost space on the deck in the cabinet. Below the drawers I stow 12 life jackets between the leg for the drawers and the hatch in the step.
View attachment 35057
Thanks, still trying to figure out what makes the most sense for organizing misc gear. I have a feeling this will be an ongoing process knowing me.
Nice work on the tackle storage too. I’ll likely do doing something similar
 
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