Okay, I give up. What's this breaker for?

Classic Parker

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pelagic2530

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I did a rudimentary experiment with my batteries and switches. (I posted a video of it, but I'm embarrassed of my rambling and stuttering to post it! Mel Tillis and I share similar genes! ☺).
We have 'that' Guest battery switch, (similar to the Perko) that came with every boat I have owned for the past 40+ years.
With the engine running, and with the Guest Switch set on Battery #1, I checked the charge voltage on each battery. I won't remember the exact numbers, but BOTH batteries were receiving over 14 volts charge from the engine alternator... With the Guest Switch on Battery #2, same thing; BOTH batteries were receiving charge from the engine alternator. (I was checking the voltage with a top-line Fluke Volt/Amp/Ohm meter). This did NOT occur on any of our previous boats. On those, if you wanted to charge both batteries while the engine was running, you had to have the Battery Switch on 'Both'. The newest of those boats was built in 1986. The point I'm trying to make is that with newer boats/newer technology, you do not have to have the Battery Switch on 'Both' for both batteries to receive charge from the engine. It seem on our Parker, each battery is receiving the charge it needs, as needed.
My guess is new technology with DVSR, VSR and/or the 'Battery-Isolator' has something to do with this...
Interesting. Not seeing the rest of the installation, I can’t comment. All of the systems I’ve seen have been as you describe your older boats.

Might have to do some digging in manufacture’s literature for the newer switches. See what I can find!
 

Andy

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Interesting. Not seeing the rest of the installation, I can’t comment. All of the systems I’ve seen have been as you describe your older boats.

Might have to do some digging in manufacture’s literature for the newer switches. See what I can find!
On all of our older boats, the only wires hooked to the batteries were large, main positive and negative battery cables; and, on the last two boats, positive and negative leads going 'from' the battery 'Out' to fused Buss Bars to power auxiliary electrical power. (there were no other wires going 'to' the batteries from other devices (like DVSR, VSR which I know nothing about, and/Battery Isolators, that I'm just now learning about.).... On our the Parker, there are other wires going 'to' the battery terminals from other devices. I noticed this when I replaced the batteries last year. I didn't know what the additional wires were, but I was extra careful to install 'All' the wires back to the batteries exactly how they were originally. My guess is this 'new-to-me' wires are part of the Battery Isolator, and/or engine-charging system...
 

Swatski

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On all of our older boats, the only wires hooked to the batteries were large, main positive and negative battery cables; and, on the last two boats, positive and negative leads going 'from' the battery 'Out' to fused Buss Bars to power auxiliary electrical power. (there were no other wires going 'to' the batteries from other devices (like DVSR, VSR which I know nothing about, and/Battery Isolators, that I'm just now learning about.).... On our the Parker, there are other wires going 'to' the battery terminals from other devices. I noticed this when I replaced the batteries last year. I didn't know what the additional wires were, but I was extra careful to install 'All' the wires back to the batteries exactly how they were originally. My guess is this 'new-to-me' wires are part of the Battery Isolator, and/or engine-charging system...
That's been my approach, call it low-level-logic, lol: made a habit of using zip ties to keep all the terminals together whenever I need to disconnect. Prevents my from messing up something I don't understand well enough to troubleshoot in an emergency.

--
 

Andy

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That's been my approach, call it low-level-logic, lol: made a habit of using zip ties to keep all the terminals together whenever I need to disconnect. Prevents my from messing up something I don't understand well enough to troubleshoot in an emergency.

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I did the same with the zip-ties, and I also made a video, and a dozen pictures to refer back to. With the new stuff, I don't know enough about it to put the wires back where they belong 'instinctively' ! I had no problem wiring the other/older boats; I have to be careful with these new ones!
 

Fishaddict

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Quick question about batteries charging and 1/2/Both /OFF switch. Is there any danger(electrolysis??) in charging with shore power charger/maintainer by putting switch in both position and attaching charging leads to main negative/positive buses? I know it is not ideal, it is temporary.
 

Swatski

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Quick question about batteries charging and 1/2/Both /OFF switch. Is there any danger(electrolysis??) in charging with shore power charger/maintainer by putting switch in both position and attaching charging leads to main negative/positive buses? I know it is not ideal, it is temporary.
If you are using a "smart" charger with separate banks connected directly to battery terminals the position of the switch should not matter at all, as far as charging.
 

pelagic2530

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Quick question about batteries charging and 1/2/Both /OFF switch. Is there any danger(electrolysis??) in charging with shore power charger/maintainer by putting switch in both position and attaching charging leads to main negative/positive buses? I know it is not ideal, it is temporary.
Fishaddict, curious as to why this would be necessary. A far better bet would be to purchase a charger with a bank size that is appropriate for the number of batteries you have. If you’re talking about using an existing single charger to charge multiple batteries, I’d suggest charging them one at a time. In any case, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for how the charger is to be used.
 

Fishaddict

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Batteries are covered by battery leads. I will have 5! batteries in CC soon and will install 2 chargers (2+3).
 

tomc585

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Ive seen a similar set up on some older pursuits but the switch was located at the helm. Its a way to start the engine when the starting battery is low. Basically its a jumper cable and would be left in the off postition unless needed. I bet if you traced it out both leads go to the positive of 2 batteries.
 

Swatski

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I bet if you traced it out both leads go to the positive of 2 batteries.
Hmm... One lead in goes to the positive terminal of the aux battery, the other goes into the rigging tube and into the armstrong bracket, presumably the alternator feed - so, with the breaker ON, alternator generated charge is split up to help charge the house battery through the Yamaha aux cable - this is the part:
1617932291209.png
 

Swatski

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I think I see what they were trying to do. With a single engine that kinda makes sense.
Yep, and it is disarmingly simple; replaces the need for a VSR/DVSR-like device - more complicated and, at least in my experience, prone to gremlins that can take a lot of effort to straighten out.

Getting to know this new boat, I'm starting to see a pretty obvious pattern which I love - they tend to un-complicate things.
"Classic Parker", I guess, lol.

--
 

tomc585

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Brings back memories of trouble shooting charging issues on a boat with a TABS setup. I had to eliminate one because too many people tried to fix it prior to me. Both motors had unused Aux outputs and it was a no brainer. Keep it simple.
 

Fishaddict

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Guest switch. My question was about ?? danger of charging batteries with non marine charger in terms of electrolysis to donor metal on boat ? gas tank. I am not worried about actual charging as long as batteries are same built and condition.
 

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