Outboard Motor Flushing Bags

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Made my own, for a 200 Yamaha, using shower liner. 4 inch zipper at the bottom for a drain. Pop the cowling, and use three or four short
bungees to hold it up. Neighbors probably like it, because it’s a whole lot quieter than running on the hose.
 

Attachments

  • C4C8FA1D-6E80-4561-B5E1-149341AB03BB.jpeg
    C4C8FA1D-6E80-4561-B5E1-149341AB03BB.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 58
  • 747C65FA-9E6C-4388-AEF6-8122B66AFB20.jpeg
    747C65FA-9E6C-4388-AEF6-8122B66AFB20.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 57
Made my own, for a 200 Yamaha, using shower liner. 4 inch zipper at the bottom for a drain. Pop the cowling, and use three or four short
bungees to hold it up. Neighbors probably like it, because it’s a whole lot quieter than running on the hose.
Pretty ingenious- These Flush bags are hard to find. There is one out of CA - but I believe the company is out of business. I think I will have to put something together myself. Thinking of pond liner and PVC Tube Frame. When I get it done if it works I will send you a pic.

Thanks for responding to my post.
 
Flushing bags are available thru Amazon....I have one...works great...and you can engage the prop while using the flush bag...
 
Here’s my flushing tub. I got the poly barrel free from Craig’s List. Cut a rectangular hole with a circular saw. Screwed on 2 scrap 4x4 posts for legs and drilled a couple of holes—one for a quick-connect fitting for the hose and one for a drain plug. Total cost for me $0.

This is the best way to flush the engine because the exhaust water is heated by the engine and is re-circulated back thru the cooling passages. The water is hot enough to open the T-stats but is not hot enough to trigger the alarm. I usually run it for 30 minutes since it is quiet enough to not bother the neighbors. This is far superior than flushing with ear muffs.
 

Attachments

  • FLUSH TUB.jpg
    FLUSH TUB.jpg
    207.5 KB · Views: 59
I use a flush bag
Available from Amazon: https://amzn.to/3v1wDjz

It's better then using the muffs, which if you don't have enough pressure and volume, the water pump impeller will get destroyed. Any large bucket or container will work, as long as the water level is above the pump.
 

Attachments

  • IMG-6058.MOV
    17.3 MB
You can also buy big aluminum feed/water tubs from Tractor Supply that work.
 
I use a flush bag
Available from Amazon: https://amzn.to/3v1wDjz

It's better then using the muffs, which if you don't have enough pressure and volume, the water pump impeller will get destroyed. Any large bucket or container will work, as long as the water level is above the pump.

It would be nearly impossible to be better than with muffs, unless your house pressure is less than 5 psi. When hooked to flush port or using muffs you dont need to start the engine, although I prefer to do so. (This is from yamaha themselves) the main thing to remeber is to not really go above idle in gear. You can for short burst but no necessary for just flushing. As long as there's enough water to keep the impeller wet your fine. I prefer flush port on dual pickup lowers, so you don't need to tape off the front lower pickup. When using the engine hose flush just wait until you see water coming out of the exhaust and prop and your good to go.
 
I smoked a water pump one spring trying a barrel. I thought I had the water high enough. Big waste of water. Tried the muffs but couldn’t get a reliable pee up top. I have been using the flush port with no issues spring and fall at the house while running, no need to rev.
150 Yamaha.
Manual says not to but a Yamaha dealer does it and recommended. I do my own work and would not try to risk screwing my stuff up. A solid stream out the pee hole assures the cylinder head is full.
my two cents, give a try
 
I smoked a water pump one spring trying a barrel. I thought I had the water high enough. Big waste of water. Tried the muffs but couldn’t get a reliable pee up top. I have been using the flush port with no issues spring and fall at the house while running, no need to rev.
150 Yamaha.
Manual says not to but a Yamaha dealer does it and recommended. I do my own work and would not try to risk screwing my stuff up. A solid stream out the pee hole assures the cylinder head is full.
my two cents, give a try
Because you didn't have the water level above the anti-ventilation plate.
 
Hey guys for the record it is Confidence Stream not pee hole
 
Here’s my flushing tub. I got the poly barrel free from Craig’s List. Cut a rectangular hole with a circular saw. Screwed on 2 scrap 4x4 posts for legs and drilled a couple of holes—one for a quick-connect fitting for the hose and one for a drain plug. Total cost for me $0.

This is the best way to flush the engine because the exhaust water is heated by the engine and is re-circulated back thru the cooling passages. The water is hot enough to open the T-stats but is not hot enough to trigger the alarm. I usually run it for 30 minutes since it is quiet enough to not bother the neighbors. This is far superior than flushing with ear muffs.
I agree. I just serviced the water pump on a 2006 F115, (not on a Parker), and ran the engine to make sure the new pump is happy. I remove the prop, 1 1/16" wrench, and then fill the tub and run the engine as needed. I can also run it in gear and higher revs to open the thermostats since the prop is off. At the end of the season I do this and flow 'salt-off' in the flushing port as well which recirculates in the tub. Thanks!IMG_20210609_145652617_HDR.jpg
 
Last edited:
I use a cheap, foldable "bathtub", works GREAT.
I like to add SaltAway and some detergent, water warms up nicely for flushing and oil changes.
1623813303136.png
1623813172943.png
1623813230618.png

1623813212698.png
 
Back
Top