panel wiring questions 2110

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DSW

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Location
Hopewell, NJ
Hi,
I have a 1997 2110 and I have some switch panel questions.

1) This is a breaker panel, and if a breaker was ever tripped you'd push the black button on the left, correct?
2) What is the rating on the accessory switches? I couldn't tell from the front or back.
3) My panel is full, but on one switch there is one cabin light. If I wanted to add something could I use that or gang the electronics together to free up a switch?
4) There is a port wiper in the factory wire bundle on the back of the panel, but my boat doesn't have it. Is it possible it's wired at the panel but dead ended somewhere? Hard to trace.
5) There is one empty switch #11, but when I volt test it, it reads 1.5 v lower than the other switches on my meter and I don't know why. I cleaned the tab and that did not make a difference.

Any help or suggestion appreciated.

Thanks

Details
1997 Parker 2110, two batteries, Perco switch.
Simple boat, no windlass, baitwell, tabs, or shore power.

Panel, Factory Label, Current Function
1 - Lights Nav/Anc - yes
2 - Cockpit Lights - yes
3 - Cabin Light - yes
4 - Bilge Aft - yes
5 - Bilge Fwd - yes
6 - Starb Wiper - yes
7 - Port Wiper - ? not installed, but wired on back of panel
8 - Accessory - VHF
9 - Accessory - GPS
10 - Accessory - Depth/Fish Finder
11 - Accessory - ? empty, but read 1.5 v lower than other switches

1-7 are original factory wiring bundle, 8,9, and 10 are recent electronics easily traced. I want to add a NMEA 2000 backbone that needs a switch and am thinking of adding it to the GPS.

PS - sorry if you get this twice, hit send earlier and had a computer glitch.
 
Front of panel and back of panel
 

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DSW":1j9q4aek said:
Hi,
I have a 1997 2110 and I have some switch panel questions.

1) This is a breaker panel, and if a breaker was ever tripped you'd push the black button on the left, correct?
2) What is the rating on the accessory switches? I couldn't tell from the front or back.
3) My panel is full, but on one switch there is one cabin light. If I wanted to add something could I use that or gang the electronics together to free up a switch?
4) There is a port wiper in the factory wire bundle on the back of the panel, but my boat doesn't have it. Is it possible it's wired at the panel but dead ended somewhere? Hard to trace.
5) There is one empty switch #11, but when I volt test it, it reads 1.5 v lower than the other switches on my meter and I don't know why. I cleaned the tab and that did not make a difference.

Any help or suggestion appreciated.

Thanks

Details
1997 Parker 2110, two batteries, Perco switch.
Simple boat, no windlass, baitwell, tabs, or shore power.

Panel, Factory Label, Current Function
1 - Lights Nav/Anc - yes
2 - Cockpit Lights - yes
3 - Cabin Light - yes
4 - Bilge Aft - yes
5 - Bilge Fwd - yes
6 - Starb Wiper - yes
7 - Port Wiper - ? not installed, but wired on back of panel
8 - Accessory - VHF
9 - Accessory - GPS
10 - Accessory - Depth/Fish Finder
11 - Accessory - ? empty, but read 1.5 v lower than other switches

1-7 are original factory wiring bundle, 8,9, and 10 are recent electronics easily traced. I want to add a NMEA 2000 backbone that needs a switch and am thinking of adding it to the GPS.

PS - sorry if you get this twice, hit send earlier and had a computer glitch.
Yes, press the black button to reset. Buttons and breakers can be replaced. Breakers are sized to load. I used Blue Seas breakers and switches. Switches can be one way- on and off, or two way - on, off on . Some switches are hold to press on like a horn button.

Look at Blue Seas web site for tips.

You could clean up stuff And add Blue Seas fuse panel

My gps and radio are always hot, fuse protected and not in switches.

If no wipers, remove wires from switch., tape and secure

See Blue Seas site for switches and other electrical items

Shop around for best deals.

Look at Warthog posts.

You can update the battery Perko switch to a better device.

Check all terminals. Probably need new battery lugs on batteries and check engine side, too and use water proof adhesive terminals on switch panel wires and all wires. Buy a good crimper. Look at marine how to web site.
If you need new battery hold down trays, look at Atwood with screw in posts.


All lights can be upgraded to Led bulbs or replace lights with sealed units. Ex anchor and running navigation lights that are sealed and waterproof.


If you have fluorescent fixtures in berth area, Amazon has LED units.


Replace bonding wire from fuel fill to gas tank.

Replace fuel sender gasket.

Replace bonding wire on sender. Look at terminals on fuel sender and replace as needed.

Deck hatches go bad and leak. Good time to buy new.


Replace fuel fill O ring.

Add cig lighter outlet with 10 amp fuse


Look at using power posts

Clean up unnecessary wires on batteries.

Replace and update breaker by battery


Go to Projects and starting reading.
Good luck


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
8 - Accessory - VHF
9 - Accessory - GPS
10 - Accessory - Depth/Fish Finder

These 3 are total BS.

I hate when they do that.

I'll give you my standard speech here:

When you go in your bedroom....Do you have to turn on 2 switches to get the light to come on?

The answer is NO....Each of those pieces of electronics's have a ON/OFF switch on the unit.

There is no reason to have it thru another switch.

You need to pull power to each of those thru a fuse panel.

There ya go....Just freed up 3 positions. :)
 
Brent":1ivdkqf3 said:
I had a lot of non marine grade wiring from previous owner and boat yards.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yep....I see it all the time.....But I also see "Bean Counter" wiring in new boats...It's Substandard to me.
 
Thanks for all the input, I added a Blue Sea terminal strip to feed the three electronics that have inline fuses. So much quicker to make it on a table and then install it in the boat. Now I have some open switches on the panel for the next project.
 

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Brent":1jtvyg4m said:
No fusing, too?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


No the circuits are protected.....But I've seen this on new boats several times.

They install at the battery......a Automotive circuit breaker. Usually a 40amp unit.

Problem is ...It has steel studs. They rust....I had one fail on a boat that was not a year old.

Sure it was under warranty....but I had worked on the boat....[Not that part]

Customer brought to me as they didn't know....I diagnosed it and fixed it. :) No Charge.

20100087_cbw_cb130_pri_larg.jpg
 
Hi,
Thanks for all the advice, finished the upgrades. I added a Garmin NMEA network and GFS 10 fuel sensor both wired to the panel as they needed an on off switch. I moved the GPS, ECHO, and VHF to their own hot with the in line fuses protecting each unit.

I freed up panel space, added accessories, and still have empty switches. Not bad for starting out full. Now what to add to that open switch...

Got it all working right away laid out on the deck. Hardest part was permanently fishing the wires.

Thanks again,

Darryl
 
DSW":1n6rliec said:
Hi,
Thanks for all the advice, finished the upgrades. I added a Garmin NMEA network and GFS 10 fuel sensor both wired to the panel as they needed an on off switch. I moved the GPS, ECHO, and VHF to their own hot with the in line fuses protecting each unit.

I freed up panel space, added accessories, and still have empty switches. Not bad for starting out full. Now what to add to that open switch...

Got it all working right away laid out on the deck. Hardest part was permanently fishing the wires.

Thanks again,

Darryl

Why did you elect to have the NMEA network on a switch? As I understand it, the power draw is extremely minimal; and how often are you going to need the batteries on but the NMEA electronics off?
 
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