Parker 2320 - Minn Kota 87" Install

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willyk9

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Starting this thread to hopefully help some others, will update as my installation happens, but for now here is what I have purchased.

Saved some coin with Black Friday deals.

- Minn Kota 87" $3,100
- (3) Ionic 12V 100ah Lithium Batteries $1991
- NOCO Gen Pro 10x4 Charger $264
- Minn Kota Plug 1865129 $104
- Minn Kota 1865110 Plug $ 17
- Blue Seas 60amp Breaker $43
- NOCO 12' Power inlet, charger plug $40
- Heavy Duty 12/3 Outdoor extension cord - $80
- ABUS lock $24
- Ionic 3 battery tray $85
- RAM rail mount - $40

Have a guy who does custom professional installs machining his own aluminum brackets, will keep this post updated once installed.
 
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Installation is completed.

Custom made one piece bracket, and a really clean install performed by a local guy.

Little of a pain to deploy and retrieve with the bow rail so think I am going to cut a section out.

Would put a hinge on for now or just sleeve it later on.
 

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There's a 60amp breaker that is turned off when charging and on when I need to use the trolling motor.

Are you suggesting something else?
 
A breaker should not be used as switch
The Blue Sea 285 series, which appears to be what is installed according to the pictures, is specifically marketed from the manufacturer as a switchable breaker.

Sure there are cases where one fails. Just like every other component. On/off switches fail as well.

A dedicated rotary switch is ideally a better installation, sure. But there’s functionally nothing wrong with doing it this way.
 
What they said..... But I will add....1] it makes the job Complete.
2] I mount that switch where it is easily accessible. That "Could be" just inside the console, so your not digging thru stuff, or I've mounted them to stick thru a panel and are exposed, so not having to even open a console door.

When a Master switch is not installed. I find people will just not turn the breaker OFF... Leaving the power ON to the TM is the #1 mistake for corrosion.... It may not be seen like this pix, but it's attacking the Motherboard in the TM.
 

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In lieu of a switch isn't it easier to just unplug the unit between drops?

You treat it just like the other Master Sw.
On at the beginning of your boating day.....OFF when you climb off the boat after it's washed.
 
What they said..... But I will add....1] it makes the job Complete.
2] I mount that switch where it is easily accessible. That "Could be" just inside the console, so your not digging thru stuff, or I've mounted them to stick thru a panel and are exposed, so not having to even open a console door.

When a Master switch is not installed. I find people will just not turn the breaker OFF... Leaving the power ON to the TM is the #1 mistake for corrosion.... It may not be seen like this pix, but it's attacking the Motherboard in the TM.
I absolutely agree that the switching function only works if you actually USE it as a switch… which I do.

Leaving the motor energized long term is bad news. If installing a dedicated on/off switch makes it easier for you to de-energize the circuit, so that it gets done, then it’s worth the extra effort.
 
Finished up part 2 this past weekend, cut the bow rail and put it back together. :eek:

Made the cut 2 weeks ago while I waited on the fittings.

Extremely pleased with how it turned out, sturdy and very functional.

Rail needs 1.25" fittings.
 

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Did you make the mounting bracket. Or did you find someone making them. I'm just got most of my parts. Need to either make the mounting bracket or if I can find someone who does. Probably be easier. Great install.
 
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