Parker 2520 Battery Relocation

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gregd123

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I have a 2003 2520 with two 200 hp 2019 Suzuki's (DF200AP). I am planning on moving my batteries (two start [Group 27] and one house (Group 4D]) to the pilot house. Question, where would you terminate the positive and negative leads from your engine harness? I was planning on either:

Option 1) install a BEP switch in the transom, connect the positives from each motor harness to the BEP switch, connect the negatives from each harness to a single 6 post buss bar located in the transom, run a connecting wire from the buss in the transom to a second buss bar in the pilot house, and connect the negative terminals on each battery to the buss bar in the pilot house. I would also run wires from the each positive battery post in the pilot house (three wires total) to the BEP switch in the transom. One downside to this is I have a positive buss bar behind the helm for my house electronics so the positive from the BEP in the transom (Stud F in the attached diagram) to the positive buss behind the helm is a long run.

Option 2) Same as Option 1 only instead of connecting each negative battery post to the negative buss in the pilot house, I would connect battery 1 negative post, to battery 2 negative post, to battery 3 negative post, to the negative buss in the pilot house. Not sure if this is an issue with the different battery Groups?

Option 3) - install a BEP switch in the pilot house. This would mean I would install two power posts in the transom to extend the positives from each engine harness to the BEP switch. The negatives would be the same for Option 1 or 2.

Any idea if any of these options are appropriate or if there is a better way? Thanks in advance for any input.
 

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HOTPURSUIT

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When relocating 12v DC batteries further from a big electrical load such as the startup of your motor wire size is critical in preventing voltage drop. I use to know the formula but have forgotten it in retirement, but there are many resources on the net to help you fi it out. Go by the exact cable length, not the distance across the deck from the battery to the motor, just trying to be helpful, Mike
 

gregd123

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Hotpursuit - definitely will size once I know the length. Anybody know a good amp draw for a Suzuki DF200AP? I know the battery is supposed to have 870 CCAs but everything that I’ve read suggest the starting amps are much lower than that. Unfortunately I don’t have an amp meter but I’m thinking I will probably have to get one unless someone happens to know a good design value for sizing wires with that particular motor.

knotfling - I currently just have two starting batteries. I am adding a house battery and the BEP switch to manage it all. I don’t really have room in the transom for the house battery and I have heard it’s not a bad idea to move the batteries forward to get some weight off the Stern. Not sure how much of a difference that really is going to make but overall would like to clean things up and keep all my batteries together.
 

Mpellet

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My first question is, what do you hope to accomplish?
The 2520 responds negatively in terms of ride and performance to weight carried aft. The opposite is true to weight carried forward, it improves ride and handling and reduces the need for trim tab input. I have not moved the batteries on my boat forward, mostly due to laziness, cheapness and I store a lot of equipment forward but I have thought about it and I know for a fact that it will make a noticeable difference in overall trim of the hull....
 

warthog5

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Option 3) - install a BEP switch in the pilot house. This would mean I would install two power posts in the transom to extend the positives from each engine harness to the BEP switch.
With Negatives NOT the same as 1 & 2...Run another GND cable for that other engine.

Shorten the factory battery cables from engines to meet the Power Posts....This will shorten the circuit, Clean up the excess cable laying around and have better cable ends installed. [Sealed tinned ends]

Whats that amp draw? There is ONLY one way to find this out.
You will need a clamp on ampprobe. Needs to be capable of 400amps DC.
Clamp it on the battery cable and have someone crank the engine while you watch the reading......The starter draw is NOT listed in ANY Factory manual. Believe me.....I've looked.
The charts for cable size will probelly be Giant.....You shold be good with a 1ga or 1/0ga. Most center consoles I use 2ga.

I've been using Wiresizer app on my computer forever... It allows you to change the voltage drop as a compromise for cable size.
Most primary circuits use 3% voltage drop.... Watch what happens to wire size with ALL the same conditions but up the voltage drop to say 5%.
 

gregd123

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Warthog, thanks. Was wondering if the statement in the attachment in your response "With Negatives NOT the same as 1 & 2...Run another GND cable for that other engine." was applicable to my situation or was this cut and pasted from another response you provided on the forum?

Also, would you loop the negatives on the battery posts to a buss bar or go directly to a buss bar from each battery negative post (Options 1 or 2 in my previous post)? If looping is acceptable, I could probably eliminate the buss bar in the pilot house and run the cable from the last battery negative post to the buss bar in the transom where the negatives from the engine harness are attached, right?
 

pelagic2530

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Agree with Warthog. Per ABYC E 11.6.1.2.2: “A battery switch shall be mounted in a readily accessible location as close as practicable to the battery.”

While there’s a bit of room for interpretation on exact battery switch location, the basic gist here is that having a BEP cluster at the stern with probably 15-20’ of unprotected conductor would not be a compliant installation.
 

warthog5

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Run a GND to each engine....From it's starting battery.

At the batteries......Jumper all GND's.........Pull from Battery GND a proper size GND for the GND Buss

[wrote this yesterday and didn't push send. ]
 
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