Parker Bow Picture and Windlass Fitting Question

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Island Dreamer

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Messages
115
Reaction score
17
Next Tuesday Im having a survey done on a 2520 Parker that does not have a windlass. Ive been researching a bunch and feel comfortable with a basic Lewmar 1000 or 700. Based on this picture, what would the best placement be and what modifications might I expect? Would the windlass go on the bow pulpit or would it go over the anchor hole? Would I need a plate to raise the level of the windlass? All the help I can get would be appreciated!

Screen Shot 2020-10-23 at 9.41.08 PM.png
 
Not the greatest angle on the picture; but, my factory installed Profish 700 sits on top of the pulpit between the cleats. There is access to the anchor locker through the hatch behind it (where the black line is going).



IMG_1117.jpeg
 
Would I need a plate to raise the level of the windlass?

Yes...... But not a plate......a box for it to sit on.......Mine was built of laminated marine plywood...and covered with fiberglass. Look at the pix's of mine. Spring for the Remote control.....
Go with the 700.....The 1000 takes larger ground tackle.. Get the auto deploy....You do NOT want to have to power down. You need G4 chain.....25ft IE: the length of the boat will work nicely. My '95 2530
 
Next Tuesday Im having a survey done on a 2520 Parker that does not have a windlass. Ive been researching a bunch and feel comfortable with a basic Lewmar 1000 or 700. Based on this picture, what would the best placement be and what modifications might I expect? Would the windlass go on the bow pulpit or would it go over the anchor hole? Would I need a plate to raise the level of the windlass? All the help I can get would be appreciated!

View attachment 26501
Many 2520's are equipped with the Lewmar Pro-Fish 700, as is ours. It is more than adequate for this boat. The Lewmar 700 Pro-Fish can be used in 'free-fall' mode, which is helpful if anchoring in deep water. But this same Lewmar Pro-Fish 700 can be easily set to 'power-down'. Most of our anchoring is in 5'-15' of water. If using 'free-fall' in shallow water like this, the chain and anchor rode can end up in a tangled pile/mess on the sea-bed. In shallow water the 'power-down' mode works best. By the way, the Lewmar windlass is very fast; 'power-down' in shallow water takes only seconds to deploy the anchor..... Our Lewmar was factory-installed on the pulpit between the two bow cleats.
 
Thank you everyone! The boat passed it's survey inspection today so now I need arrange shipping from Texas. I found a few Lewmars on Ebay that say "tested" and might take a chance on one. They seem to be very rebuildable if there are any issues. Would any of you say it's a bad idea to buy a used windlass? Some of them even have the stickers still on them.
 
The typical problem with the Pro Fish is if it get heavily loaded or even over loaded the threads on the capstan get a little boogered up. This causes the capstan to not freely spin on its shaft which in turn prevents it from locking in the retrieve position. You will have to give it another half spin by hand to get it to lock up. Easy fix...chase the threads with a tap and die (5/8" 18NF pitch), lube it well and it will work again.
 
Don't mount it on the pulpit if you are doing new install since the rode does not have enough room to drop and pile neatly, which results in it getting jammed. This is commonly where they mount it at the dealer/factory, but does not mean it is correct. Mount it over the deepest part of the anchor locker so the rode has room to fall and lay properly. 8 Plait rode is more expensive, but much more soft and supple. Anchor rode is not something you buy annually so is worth the investment. You can order from here Anchor Rode - Seco South and have them splice 25 feet of chain on each end so once you beat up one end of it you can just flip it around.
 
The way the factory installs the Lewmar 700 is not ideal. As mentioned only use 8 plaite rode as 3 strand will bind up an cause issues. I always have to stop midway retrieving anchor to sweep back rode in the locker or it will pile up under the hole and jam. I've seen guys make a plate over the anchor locker which would let the rode fall to center of locker which is what you want.
 
Second and third what is said above. I have a Lewmar 1000 profish. Made the mistake of getting 600 feet of 3 strand nylon (very stiff, hopefully will soften up with use). Also have 60' of chain. I can get all but about 100' of my rode in the anchor locker (keep ~100 feet in a small laundry basket in the v-berth) but I have to "adjust" it about every 100 feet so it packs in to fit in the locker. During adjustment, I noticed that the location where the rode comes into the locker is towards the front of the locker and the rode tends to stick/hang up there so definitely take into consideration the comment above about having the rode drop into the deepest part of the locker.

In southern California, we will anchor in 50-100 feet with a rocky bottom and I wouldn't want less than 60' of chain in these conditions. I have been told that one reason for longer chain is to get the rope part of the rode off the bottom where it can fray/cut rubbing against sharp rocks on the bottom. Those with more experience chime in.

For what its worth, to mark the depth on the rope, I used blue and yellow 1/4" hollow poly braid, with yellow = 100' and blue = 200' (100' = (1) yellow marker; 200' = (1) blue marker; 300' = (1) yellow and (1) blue marker; etc.). I made each marker ~6" long by using ~12" of the poly braid, making a small loop/eye, and inserting ~6" back in the hollow part of the braid. At 100' intervals I fed the appropriate marker(s) through one of the three strands of anchor rope, looped the tag end of the marker through the markers eye, cinched it down on the strand of anchor rope, and then ran the markers tag end over/under the adjacent strands of the anchor rope. I also wove a single length of green parachord at 50' intervals (150', 250', 350', etc.) into the strands of the anchor rope.
 
Second and third what is said above. I have a Lewmar 1000 profish. Made the mistake of getting 600 feet of 3 strand nylon (very stiff, hopefully will soften up with use). Also have 60' of chain. I can get all but about 100' of my rode in the anchor locker (keep ~100 feet in a small laundry basket in the v-berth) but I have to "adjust" it about every 100 feet so it packs in to fit in the locker. During adjustment, I noticed that the location where the rode comes into the locker is towards the front of the locker and the rode tends to stick/hang up there so definitely take into consideration the comment above about having the rode drop into the deepest part of the locker.

In southern California, we will anchor in 50-100 feet with a rocky bottom and I wouldn't want less than 60' of chain in these conditions. I have been told that one reason for longer chain is to get the rope part of the rode off the bottom where it can fray/cut rubbing against sharp rocks on the bottom. Those with more experience chime in.

For what its worth, to mark the depth on the rope, I used blue and yellow 1/4" hollow poly braid, with yellow = 100' and blue = 200' (100' = (1) yellow marker; 200' = (1) blue marker; 300' = (1) yellow and (1) blue marker; etc.). I made each marker ~6" long by using ~12" of the poly braid, making a small loop/eye, and inserting ~6" back in the hollow part of the braid. At 100' intervals I fed the appropriate marker(s) through one of the three strands of anchor rope, looped the tag end of the marker through the markers eye, cinched it down on the strand of anchor rope, and then ran the markers tag end over/under the adjacent strands of the anchor rope. I also wove a single length of green parachord at 50' intervals (150', 250', 350', etc.) into the strands of the anchor rope.
Great ideas for marking the rode length; I've used similar methods over the years.... Some thoughts on chain and length of anchor rode. (mostly for safe sleeping over night, not for temporary fishing).... Carry as much rode and chain as you have room for; you never know when you might need it. (The 'standard' rule of thumb for chain length is to have about the length of the boat; I'd recommend about a third more than that) As you mentioned, the chain serves more than one purpose. When anchoring in rock, coral, harsh sand, etc nylon line with abrade quickly; of course chain is better. The weight of the chain also helps the anchor to set, especially when anchoring in sand and mud; the goal is to bury the anchor deep, and the weight of the chain helps make that happen. After you are anchored, the chain helps keep the anchor in place; acts as a weighted-'shock-absorber'... Our last boat, on the primary anchor, we hade 450' feet of line attached to about 40' of 3/8" chain, attached to a swivel, and then a 35 lb. CQR. The secondary anchor had 300' line, 12' of 3/8" chain attached to a swivel, then a large Fortress. We also carried two other spare anchors below deck. The anchor rode locker was big enough for me to sit it, accessed from the forward cabin via a large hatch/door. The deepest place we anchor in is usually Cape Lookout Bight/Power Squadron Spit, NC. (about 25'). In eastern NC most places you anchor in 5-20', unless you anchor/fishing near-shore and anchor in 30-80'.... Here is an example of rode length. At Cape Lookout, (again, 25') to anchor safely (imho) over night it's recommended to use a 7:1 or 8:1 ratio, so we needed to deploy 252' of rode. (25' + 6.5' the height of the bow from the water, = 31.5... 31.5 X 8= 252'... Some will say a 5:1 or 3:1 ratio is enough; it might be, sometimes. If the winds and waves stay calm. If anchored in heavy wave action, it's important to factor in the wave height-to trough.... I use as much line as the surrounding area and/or other boats allow. But I seldom anchor near other boats, for a variety of reasons.....
 
Last edited:
Im not attempting to sell any produce. Just giving some info.
I have a 2018 2320 center console with a 300hp Yamaha and just installed a Lone Star GX 2 anchor winch. I live in So Ca and my boat is moored in channel Island Harbor.
I reviewed many articles on various winch‘s including a comparison utube independent article comparing 4 winches and the Lone Star was the winner in performance. They have a website.
I bought the entire package from Hammer Marine in Texas, the owners name is John.
I bought the winch, rode, chain, anchor, etc. from the Company.
if your prior military and or law enforcement he gives a discount and everything arrived as promised.
Our neighbor has two boats and one is a 2320 pilot house and another is a larger boat. Both he and his son charter their boats and have Lone Star winches on them and say that it’s the best anchor system they have ever used.
I Installed the system myself and any questions I had I called John and he walked me thru my questions. He is very user friendly.
As I stated, I’m not selling any product or service.
 
I second the lone star marine anchor winch. I had a windless on my last center console and was a pain. Would not always transition from rope to chain without some help. Even with best rope package. I definitely didn’t want that issue on my 2520 and have to go out on bow constantly. I installed winch myself this past spring and it has been excellent. 5671E069-10F0-42EB-9B76-20A2601D3DB2.jpeg51D6201A-AE49-4F01-BCF7-0855F66073A7.jpeg(
 
I ended up purchasing a Lewmar 700 and will mount it next week. I found it odd that my boat does not have a hatch at the front above the anchor locker.
 
Back
Top